Best crack climbs at the Gunks?

The Gunks are known for the roofs, but I'm curious what are people's favorite crack climbs at the Gunks (of any difficulty).

Uhhhh???

Super Crack, Kligfield's Follies, Foops, True Grip in one long pitch to the top, 0pen Cockpit (supposedly named after a local hardwoman of the time), No Comment, Harvest Moon, Persistence, Resistence, Cars That Eat People, White Rose, Double Crack, Ants Line, Bonnie's Roof in one long pitch with the direct finish, P38, No Exit.

Ken's anyone? also, something interesting, Sonja (mentioned even though I don't find it that good, its probably the purest crack line). Raunchy and its neighbors are all good, and involve jamming,

Of the stuff I have climbed, I think the ~5.8 crack in the area with a bunch of moderates at lost city wins

Resistance wins, hands down for me. It's short for the crack section, bit those finger locks and technical toe jams are really amazing. Harvest Moon is good, but can easily be climbed as a face climb. In fact, the easiest way to do it is to use the face holds and plug gear in the crack. try doing that with nothing but ringlocks. Probably harder than 11a.

SpencerB wrote:Of the stuff I have climbed, I think the ~5.8 crack in the area with a bunch of moderates at lost city wins

For people who've never seen it:



There are other worthwhile cracks at Lost City, most notably Lost City Crack (10a). You can add Golden Dream (9+) and Pumped (8+) at Peterskill to the list.

Ken's is cool

Don't forget Coex. Or is that a face climb?

Edited to add: this post was a joke, referring to some other thread I can't remember anymore.

The best Gunks cracks are in the Adirondacks.

Kevin Heckeler wrote:The best Gunks cracks are in the Adirondacks.

Seriously. If anyone wants to polish their crack technique, Lost T, New Buck Mt, and Starbuck are not that far away. There's prolly a bunch of pure cracks on Crane Mt too but I just don't know it that well.

Tony Sartin wrote:Super Crack, Kligfield's Follies, Foops, True Grip in one long pitch to the top, 0pen Cockpit (supposedly named after a local hardwoman of the time), No Comment, Harvest Moon, Persistence, Resistence, Cars That Eat People, White Rose, Double Crack, Ants Line, Bonnie's Roof in one long pitch with the direct finish, P38, No Exit.

It's a real stretch to call a lot of those "crack climbs" - a lot of them don't have a single required jam of any kind.

Easter Time Too (Nears) is a really nice line although the crack is short it is the crux and has great jams.

Tony Sartin wrote:Super Crack, Kligfield's Follies, Foops, True Grip in one long pitch to the top, 0pen Cockpit (supposedly named after a local hardwoman of the time), No Comment, Harvest Moon, Persistence, Resistence, Cars That Eat People, White Rose, Double Crack, Ants Line, Bonnie's Roof in one long pitch with the direct finish, P38, No Exit.

Tony!
I remember when .might of been on Bonnie's Direct?, with ?,,, .
Hope your still crushing
. Good list!

(Staying out of the fray, just off the edge Uberfall zone
This climb has a temperature change, thing to think about .
depending on the season the climb that brian9 mentions; with the crack at the top

BIG CHIMNEY linked with MISS BAILEY'S stout 5.6 R?
Climb main face left out to the crack, through the overhang.
,(*1 Long pitch, little , thin pro , long 3rd class to step across)
(1st,pitch,optional, base of chimney)
long slings long runout outs on easy ground gear where you need it,
this must have changed with modern micro cams(?)

Top part of silhouette is fun.

No one mentioned any of the great offwidth moves!!!! On that note does big chimney count? Chimneys are big cracks.

Ringwraith is an excellent, continuous hand crack. At 10-, it's overrated, probably because most Gunkies are unfamiliar with crack climbing.

Kevin Heckeler wrote:The best Gunks cracks are in the Adirondacks.

^Truth spoken

Ringwraith has been inaccessible to climbers since about 1994. That's 22 years to you and me folks.

Just off the top of my head:
Ken's Crack
Double Crack
Easter Time Too
Lost City Crack
P1 of Carbs & Caffeine
Laurel

Only one of those requires actual crack climbing technique, and only for a couple of moves. That's the real problem with the Gunks version of "crack climbs" - they mostly aren't.

Sartin got the best ones down.

There are plenty of corner systems at the Gunks that follow cracks, but the best pure splitters I've done are Harvest Moon, Lost City Crack, and Persistence. There's some 5.8 right near the closed section of the Nears that's good. Kansas City has like 2 or three really fun jams, and Supercrack looks amazing!

wonderwoman wrote: Not sure the last time you were at the gunks, but this is definitely not the case.

Doesn't matter - I've done all the routes you've listed and many that others have mentioned as well. I stand by my comment that the vast majority of Gunks "crack climbs" either don't require any crack technique at all or only a jam or two. Yes, of course there are a few exceptions, and I really can't comment on climbs above 5.11, but for the most part, no jamming required.