Expedition/alpine climbing tent ideas

I'm in the market for a tent/tarp solution for future climbs/trips and figured I could use some input. Currently I normally use either a cuben fiber square tarp or a TarpTent double rainbow for o/n trips in the continental United States. As I'm looking at making trips to alpine areas of Alaska/Canada/Patagonia/other places with really bad weather and long approaches in the next year I figured it is time to start exploring other options and systems.

From my limited expedition experience setting up a base camp and then attempting a climb(s) from it requires a basecamp shelter plus something else depending on how committing and long your climbs are. With that in mind a few questions:

How important is it to have an incredibly bomber base camp tent (I've heard some horror stories from Patagonia)? I generally prefer to not lug around a massive heavy tent if I don't have to. Would a pyramid shelter work well in this role, other than being a little cramped? I'd feel fine leaving the tarptent on everything I've been on so far in the lower 48 (Rainier, Baker, etc...) but there are places I've been in Canada where I was happy to have something with more poles and heavier weight nylon.

For alpine climbing tents, any recommendations/things to consider? For the lower 48 a tarp has always felt sufficient. If things get really bad I think snow caves are always going to be better than a tent if possible. On rock climbs are two person BD bivy tents best? Single vs double wall (I generally prefer single wall and try to avoid rainy seasons)? Generally looking at doing single push climbs and bailing if the weather gets too severe to continue. I really value light weight over comfort (when I'm climbing at least).

All my previous climbing/expedition tent experience has been with Hilleberg but I'd rather save the weight and expense if there are other equally good solutions. If there are any excellent threads I didn't find answering these questions please let me know.

BD Firstlight is my go to for winter stuff here in the Winds. If I'm with more than 2 people, I like having a BD Mega Mid (pyramid style) because I can dig out a nice cook/communal tent and set that bad boy up when it's being used, collapse it when it's not, and I don't have to spend 20 minutes setting it back up. It's bomber. Middle of Titcomb Basin last winter, 60 mph winds, and I never even thought twice about reinforcing the tie down points on either tent.

As for lightweight tarp tents... They have a place when you're trying to go UL, but are impossible to set up in uber windy conditions, I.E. any extended winter camping. Those few ounces of weight savings can be had other places that don't sacrifice comfort.

I think is the best bang for your buck in terms of light weight and weather performance is the Firstlight. I regrettably have no experience with Hilleberg. After talking with a few reps, it seems to be a helluva shelter and it tried and true when it comes to standing up to anything, save Himalayan conditions where there are tents made for exactly that.

I saw quite a few BD Firstlights when I was in Alaska, which prompted me to buy one and I have not regretted it. If I'm in true winter or winter-esque (Alaska, Rockies in Spring) conditions, I want a real shelter. I'm willing to carry a Firstlight over a tarp tent. The way I see it is my comfort on a long trip is directly related to my performance.

If you have the money, Hilleberg seems like the way to go. Nammatj for a tunnel design or Jannu for a more dome style.

I have a BD Firstlight as well. It's single wall, under 3 pounds (2 pounds 14 ounces I believe) and as close to a 4 season tent you will get for that weight. Have been through 2 decent snowstorms in it with gusts up to 40mph. Anything over 40 and things start to become pretty shaky. Also it will be a bit cramped if either person is taller than 6' or more than 200 pounds. But I have zero complaints about it.

Base camp: Hilleberg Nammatj 3GT

Bivy tent: MH Direkt 2

If you really want to handle the burl without as much weight as a Hilleberg, the BD Biblers work pretty well. I've used both the I-Tent/Eldorado and the Fitzroy in Patagonia storms at base camp with good success. Another classic but heavier option I've used base camping is the MH Trango which is a bit more capacious and was semi-standard on big expeditions for quite a while.

On route, though, I typically plan for a weather window and go as light as feasible. For that, bivying out, tarps, or a First Light all work well, depending on conditions. I've heard decent things about the Mountain Hardwear Direkt 2 as well.

I'll throw in another vote for the Hilleberg Nammatj and MH Direkt 2.

I'll vote for the Nammatj 2GT though. Spent 3 weeks in it with 2 people and it really wasn't too cramped. The tunnel design makes the space more livable than a dome with a similar footprint. The weight isn't bad and is a lot less than some other true contenders. Extended vesti is absolutely worth the price/weight since you get a huge garage you can dig out and cook in, etc.

The reason your tarp works on Rainier is that you don't go if winds of 80 mph are predicted. That's a luxury you don't have on an extended trip.

Assuming you are dealing with "good" weather OR are climbing a big route in a weather window, the Firstlight is fine.

But in the Wind River Range I had a particularly bad experience in Titcomb in winter with winds and even a summer squall flattened it when it hit sideways.

As far as Alaska goes you are crazy if you bring that tent into bad weather in my experience. Plus it's super tight for two people and you will get covered in condensation from rubbing up against the walls. Get an expedition tent, single or double wall, AND bring the Firstlight if you are going to need a bivy tent. Firstlight tents are not made for crazy storms, like in Alaska or Patagonia.

You can use a Firstlight with a good wall for a private bedroom tent in most basecamps, except where it rains heavily. Bring your tarp too. Makes a nice sunshade if the weather is too nice in BC. Or you can cover a snow pit kitchen with it (assuming fair weather). Or you can cover the Firstlight with it for rain.

So I ended up buying a new MH Direkt 2 (with a vestibule) off of Ebay for a good price. I figure it should get me through the winter in Colorado and some stuff this spring and summer. The vestibule looks nice for less intense things (say winter camping trips in the Rockies), and seems like it might just make it a bit of a quiver of one (can be used as a really tiny basecamp for single day climbs, and can stash the vestibule if you need to take the tent with you for a mutli-day affair). I especially like this since I have a thing for big traverses.

I appreciate all of your input and suggestions. If/when I end up going somewhere more rugged where a true basecamp tent is required I'll look at the options and pros/cons. I really like the Durability of Hilleberg but at the end of the day I'm probably happier with BDs weight and price point.

A few thoughts from all these replies and my own experience: In my opinion a spacious 4 season basecamp tent is only necessary where you are utterly exposed (can't dig in, can't build a rock wall, can't camp a little lower) which in my experience really only happens on massive glaciers/ice caps or at basecamps at significant altitude (Denali, etc...). Anywhere else there are other options should things get bad enough. A bivy tent is most helpful on climbs where a tent provides your only shelter (exposed ridges or ledges on rock faces). On something like Rainier, most parties set up a tent at a sheltered camp (such as camp Muir) and then push to the summit without one. If things get really bad there are crevasses, snow caves, etc that will always provide better shelter than a tent. Per the Firstlight vs Direkt 2 debate, I sleep out a lot, even in the mountains and unless the wind/weather is bad enough I prefer this. If the wind/weather is bad enough, I want a shelter that will handle that as well as possible. Therefore this seemed like an obvious choice.

I'd still love to hear from someone who uses a pyramid style shelter for basecamping not in the winter (I guess I'm looking for an excuse to buy yet another non-freestanding tent), because I think that would be awesome. That said I think they are certainly most useful when you can dig them into the snow, and probably loose some versatility/strength in high winds or bare glaciers.