1st trip to Yosemite... What's the best sport climbing area in Yosemite?

I'm visiting Yosemite Park for the first time. It would be nice to be around the popular attractions, but I mainly want to plan my trip mainly around sport climbing at Yosemite. Does anybody know the best wall/area for sport climbing?

Yosemite doesn't have much in the way of sport climbing. You can try this Supertopo guidebook:

Yosemite Sport Climbs and Topropes.

supertopo.com/packs/yosemit…

dihedrals; Smith Rock

Chapel wall is your best bet.

Five and Dime, Chapel Wall, Pat and Jack Pinnacle just to name a few.

Yosemite is obviously known for it's trad climbing, however it definitely has good sport climbing as well, especially if you're a hard sport climber. Not many good moderates.

Supertopo has a sport climbing guide to yosemite and the new Sloan guidebook is pretty extensive and will offer some good beta for sport cragging.

Public Sanitation Wall is also good

hmm... I'm a moderate climber. I climb mainly 10's and 11A. What difficulty are these climbs in these areas?

climbingchick07 wrote:hmm... I'm a moderate climber. I climb mainly 10's and 11A. What difficulty are these climbs in these areas?

Some 10's, a random 5.8 or two, mostly 11's (often 11c & 11d) and 12's.

mountainproject.com/v/22---…

mountainproject.com/v/the-c…

mountainproject.com/v/publi…

mountainproject.com/v/pat-a…

The Valley doesn't have a ton of moderate sport routes.
Head down Hwy 41 to Shuteye Ridge. It is just outside of Oakhurst, near Bass Lake. That will be a better destination for moderate sport climbing while still being close to the Valley. mountainproject.com/v/shute…

If you prefer to stay in the Valley there are a few moderate sport routes at Schultz's Ridge, but other than that they are mostly 11 and up. Also, keep in mind that a 11 in the Valley is not necessarily a 11 elsewhere..

Have fun

Mountain project shows a total of 24 sport routes in the valley from 10a - 11a:

mountainproject.com/scripts…

Kent Richards wrote:Mountain project shows a total of 24 sport routes in the valley from 10a - 11a: mountainproject.com/scripts…

And 5 of those will also require trad gear.

Marc801 wrote: And 5 of those will also require trad gear.

5 of them on that page, yes. But not 5 out of 24 -- unless you know more about the ones that show up as strictly "Sport".

I already subtracted the 5 that include trad from the total number of routes on the page... There are 29 listed on the page.

24 isn't a ton, but it's probably good for a few days.

Kent Richards wrote: 5 of them on that page, yes. But not 5 out of 24 -- unless you know more about the ones that show up as strictly "Sport". I already subtracted the 5 that include trad from the total number of routes on the page... There are 29 listed on the page. 24 isn't a ton, but it's probably good for a few days.

Oh. I didn't realize you subtracted those out (and I certainly didn't count the whole list).

when are you going?

Mid-summer Tuolumne Meadows is better. east cottage dome.

Spring and earlier in the fall for valley north facing routes.

This time of year Chapel wall in the valley is generally too cold (north facing in shadow all day).

10A to 11A sport climbing is really beginner routes. Owens river gorge is the place for that.

Lots of sport available on the east side but with tholumne meadows closed, the trip is a whole different beast (as would Owens)

Owens or Smith is the best sport climbing in Yosemite.

Drive an hour to Gold Wall at Table Mountain. A lot of valley locals go there when they want good sport climbing. If you're crushing 12's and up go to Jailhouse. Best Sport climbing in the area.
If your time is limited in the valley, I recommend partnering up with someone in camp 4 and doing the trad routes.

Mecca on Lower Cathedral has some stellar 5.10 sport climbs

Ralph Swansen wrote:Owens or Smith is the best sport climbing in Yosemite.

Where is this in Yosemite? Could you send me a link? Can't seem to find it.

Bummer... I was planning to go in the spring, but looks like Yosemite may be too difficult for me to climb. It seems like there are too few routes within my climbing range. People in Houston would consider 10's and 11A to be moderate, but it doesn't seem to be the case here. I can climb other 11's sometimes but not very clean. Also, I am bringing along someone who climbs mainly 10's.

I may have to stick to places around Denver or San Francisco for now until I can climb more difficult routes.

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