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double delay
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Oct 19, 2016
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4 Corners
· Joined Jul 2014
· Points: 65
Heading to Red Rocks early December and I've got a perfectly good pair of pink Anasazis that are sized great for 1-3 pitches but would be intolerable for some of the 6-8-10 pitch climbs I anticipate there. Any thoughts on whether I should go in the direction of mocs for comfort in combination with the anasazis or is it really going to be best to get an all arounder like the TC pros? also weighing the price point between the two. Thanks!
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BoulderCharles
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Oct 19, 2016
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Unknown Hometown
· Joined Sep 2011
· Points: 95
TC Pros are definitely worth the money for long days. They are stiff enough that you can even wear them with a thin sock and still climb pretty hard.
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Ted Pinson
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Oct 19, 2016
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Chicago, IL
· Joined Jul 2014
· Points: 252
Moccs are incredibly comfortable (depending on sizing), but not terribly supportive. I could see you getting some pretty tired legs after 10 pitches in Moccs. Do you take your Pinks off between pitches? I know that this is easier said than done, but this might be a good idea after 2-3 pitches. TC Pros are comfy and supportive and still perform really well even if you size for comfort, but they are not cheap.
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Zachary Winters
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Oct 20, 2016
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Winthrop, WA
· Joined Aug 2014
· Points: 435
Do you like your Pinks? Maybe get another pair a half size up? My pinks are my long route shoes, and I love them. Good for edging and crack climbing - perfect for RR. I love TC Pros, but not for climbing thin cracks so I prefer the Pinks for routes you get a little of everything. I think Mocs would suck for the edgy pitches at RR.
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Clint Helander
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Oct 20, 2016
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Anchorage, AK
· Joined Dec 2007
· Points: 617
You guys are crazy. You don't need TC Pros to climb moderates in RR. Use whatever shoe is comfortable and go climb!
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Ted Pinson
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Oct 20, 2016
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Chicago, IL
· Joined Jul 2014
· Points: 252
You might notice that he didn't specify a grade range....
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evan h
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Oct 20, 2016
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Longmont, CO
· Joined Oct 2012
· Points: 360
Taking them off at belays sounds cheaper than a new pair of shoes. My $0.02.
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Jim Titt
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Oct 20, 2016
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Germany
· Joined Nov 2009
· Points: 490
Ted Pinson wrote:You might notice that he didn't specify a grade range.... Yeah and his profile says leads 5.10a..... At Red Rocks a pair of decent approach shoes got me up that stuff and I´m fat, weak, old and talentless:-)
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Colonel Mustard
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Oct 20, 2016
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Sacramento, CA
· Joined Sep 2005
· Points: 1,257
Locker wrote:Personally I think climbing in a pair of comfortable shoes is a better idea. Yeah, but then how are you going to add an extra half hour to your climb time?
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Colonel Mustard
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Oct 20, 2016
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Sacramento, CA
· Joined Sep 2005
· Points: 1,257
Locker wins. After we settle the shoe conundrum, could we discuss how to wipe your butt on a trad climb? I go to the old standby of a ham sandwich, but keep losing my appetite. PLEASE HELP ME MAKE SIMPLE DECISIONS!!!
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evan h
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Oct 20, 2016
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Longmont, CO
· Joined Oct 2012
· Points: 360
Locker wrote: Personally I think climbing in a pair of comfortable shoes is a better idea. Of course, this is ideal. I'm just trying to be realistic. Sure, go ahead and grab a pair of TC Pros -- they're great shoes (as they should be for $180). I own a pair and use them often for multi-pitch climbing, but I still never wear them for more than 2-3 pitches anyway. Obviously, you have to be careful, and perhaps you just partially remove them to ease the tension (which can all be done while you belay your second, in addition to eating/drinking/adding layers/picking your nose, etc -- it's boring on belay). If your climbing shoes are so spacious to allow comfortable climbing for 10 pitches, they're really no more than approach shoes without traction. That's the case for my feet, anyway. As far as wasted time, again, the trick is to handle this business while belaying (a follower). Worst case scenario, it's hardly Patagonian alpine conditions over there. You're safer on the walls than in Vegas!
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evan h
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Oct 20, 2016
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Longmont, CO
· Joined Oct 2012
· Points: 360
I know -- I'll immediately think of this post when I finally manage to drop one!
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Ted Pinson
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Oct 20, 2016
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Chicago, IL
· Joined Jul 2014
· Points: 252
Hmm...climbing in approach shoes is an interesting idea. Anyone ever climb cracks in them?
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