A1 Pulley Injury

I've had another thread going on for a while regarding my finger injury. Just posted an update there if you want to check it out.

Most of those comments were related to A2 and flexor tendon issues. After a visit to the ortho, it looks like my main injury is in the A1 pulley with some minor damage to the A2.

Any practical advice for the injury would be great! Is there any taping that would work for it as I get back into climbing. I've been H-taping and will continue to do that. Not sure how I can support the A1.

Thanks in advance.

You probably healed up just fine.  Taping, in general, is over rated and should only be done if it makes your finger or hand feel better when you are climbing.  Flexor pulleys take a tremendous load when weighted.  Putting a piece of tape over your skin maybe offloads 1-2% of this.  For all flexor pulley injuries out there I highly recommend Ester Smith's podcast on trainingbeta.com.  She is a hand physical therapist and has treated many of such injuries.  I'm a family medicine doc and I can safely say that most docs don't know how to deal with these.  Even if you see an orthopedic or plastics hand surgeon they will send you to a physical therapist as this is the mainstay of treatment. (though it is important to get an accurate diagnosis before treating, which can be achieved by a skilled physician, physical therapist, high quality ultrasound or MRI).  Pulley injuries very very rarely require surgery.  In general, rehab for all pulley injuries is accomplished by stressing it to the point of mild familiar discomfort about twice per week.  Resting can be important but after a few weeks of this you will lose your return on investment.  you will need to stress it to heal it.  This is best accomplished on the hang board with weight removed using a pulley.  Gradually, weight can be added and your pain will resolve (6-8 weeks).

Hey thanks for your reply Gettin' Lucky!  Yeah, I found and love all the podcasts on Trainingbeta by Ester. Her site is awesome. So much great info. Unfortunately they didn't come out until a few months after my injury.