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Katana Lace: My heart is broken (along with my toes)

Original Post
ebmudder · · Bronx, NY · Joined Jul 2011 · Points: 55

I love my Katana Laces...I climb a grade harder in them...their edging and smearing are the best I've ever experienced for trad 'Gunks climbing at my level (up to 5.9 lead). I only climb outside.

Problem is my US 11.5 feet just don't fit in them. My freakishly long "index" toe is slightly longer than my big toe, resulting in it being accordioned by the shape of the last. My feed are fairly wide in the front with a narrow heel. After climbing all day yesterday, I'm hobbling around in my street shoes today.

I've sized up repeatedly through 3 pairs of Katanas and am currently suffering with 45s, which I've climbed in 40 days or so this year (I don't get out much). It seems like the uppers have broken in, but the last of course isn't. I'm not sure if I should try sizing up again, or if there's a similar shoe better-sized for my feet.

I would just buy a pair of 45.5s, but am afraid they'll feel fine out of the box (as the 45s did), but will torture me on the wall, and they'll just end up in consignment after one day. If you've had a similar experience and found an alternative, please let me know.

Ted Pinson · · Chicago, IL · Joined Jul 2014 · Points: 252

US 11.5 and you're suffering in 45s? Maybe it's just not a good fit. My street size is 12.5/13 and I suffered through 44.5s before giving up and going for 45.5s, which are perfect.

ebmudder · · Bronx, NY · Joined Jul 2011 · Points: 55

Thanks Ted: Yes, I'm feeling like the shoe's last just won't work with the shape of my feet. Hoping someone else might have experienced the same problem and found an alternative shoe.

Ted Pinson · · Chicago, IL · Joined Jul 2014 · Points: 252

Have you tried the 5.10 Pinks? I found that they fit my foot much better. Edge as well and smear much better, although they're a pain to get on.

Redyns · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Apr 2011 · Points: 60

it's probably about time to try on a different shoe, Champ - there's about 100 to choose from.

Mike Knight · · Detroit, MI · Joined Dec 2013 · Points: 55

I love my katanas as well. But I think evolv shoes are designed for people with mortons toe. Or at least some models are.

ebmudder · · Bronx, NY · Joined Jul 2011 · Points: 55

Thanks Mike and Ted. Appreciate the advice.

Nick Drake · · Kent, WA · Joined Jan 2015 · Points: 651

The pinks do seem to have a more blunt shape for mortons toe. I haven't purchased a pair, just did a demo at the gym and they seemed to have a narrow heel similar to the katana lace (which I own two pairs of).

They also have a new "stonelands" lace and velcro on their site which appear to have a very blunt shape with more space for your little piggies. I know that the last generation stoneland lace was VERY soft though, edged only slightly better than mythos.
fiveten.com/us/climbing/mod…

ebmudder · · Bronx, NY · Joined Jul 2011 · Points: 55

Thanks everyone for the recommendations. If I find something that works I'll update the thread.

Ryan Hamilton · · Orem · Joined Aug 2011 · Points: 5

+1 on the Five Ten Pinks. The last is probably going to be perfect for you. New Blanco coming out soon too. I'm also really loving the Quantum, so you might check those as well.

Long Ranger · · Boulder, CO · Joined Jan 2014 · Points: 669

I moved from Katanas to Scarpa Vapor V's. A revelation. The heel never fit well on the Katanas. Just felt mushy. My big toe and index toe are about the same length. I moved from the 5.10 pinks to Katanas. I thought the pinks fit was good until I put on those Vapor V's. Love the fit of LS trailrunners (sized way up) and the TX series approach shoes (sized slightly down), but I don't think LS rock shoes are for me.

So, anyways, shop around.

Ahram Prak · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Oct 2015 · Points: 140

Stoneland vcs for edging at street size +1/2 for all day. They have a wide toe box and is a good fit for a mortons toe.

If you're looking for something more downturned, the new five ten quantums fit a wide foot very comfortably. Half size down for edging and street size for all day but slightly loose heel.

Nate D · · Tacoma, WA · Joined Nov 2015 · Points: 950

11EE Street shoe

I consider the 44.5-45 range my long-day or cold weather shoe range.

44.5 TC Pros: Snug but comfy after breaking in, use for warm weather crack climbing.

45 TC Pros: Requires ultralight socks for the right fit, is my go-to cold weather trad climbing shoe

45 Testarossa: Tight but not super performance tight, could have done 44 but my big toes are an anomaly so what is great on the rest of my foot, is too tight for my big toes. Comfy for a decently long day in the gym or bouldering.

45 Katana Lace: Requires ultralight socks for a snug fit, but is my go-to face/slab climbing shoe in cold weather.

Honestly a really thin sock doesn't seem to degrade my feel that much. Maybe try sizing up but using a really thin sock, like a smartwool ultralight PhD runner sock, to help adjust the fit.

ebmudder · · Bronx, NY · Joined Jul 2011 · Points: 55

Just a followup, I ended up buying the TC Pros in 45 (same size as the Katanas). Out of the box they felt comfy with ultralight wool sockliners on, without cranking down on the laces. I climbed with them all day yesterday and they were "a revelation" as some had mentioned...they seemed to edge and smear the same as the Katanas...the only difference was no pain.

My only issue is with tongues, which seem to fold under at the edges if you tug on them trying to get them on, requiring you to pull only on the heel loops. Not a major problem.

Thanks to all for the advice.

JK- Branin · · NYC-ish · Joined Nov 2012 · Points: 56

I've loved scarpa shoes for my "index toe' longest feet. Especially the instinct and vapor series. The vapor is probably closest to the same camber (just guessing), and they use the same rubber.

That said, I also have a wide forefoot, so they may or may not work for you weird toes. Worth trying on though.

Ted Pinson · · Chicago, IL · Joined Jul 2014 · Points: 252

Yeah, the tongue is a pain in the ass on the TC Pros, but they are incredibly comfortable for how well they edge and are amazing in cracks.

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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