Katana Lace: My heart is broken (along with my toes)
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I love my Katana Laces...I climb a grade harder in them...their edging and smearing are the best I've ever experienced for trad 'Gunks climbing at my level (up to 5.9 lead). I only climb outside. |
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US 11.5 and you're suffering in 45s? Maybe it's just not a good fit. My street size is 12.5/13 and I suffered through 44.5s before giving up and going for 45.5s, which are perfect. |
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Thanks Ted: Yes, I'm feeling like the shoe's last just won't work with the shape of my feet. Hoping someone else might have experienced the same problem and found an alternative shoe. |
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Have you tried the 5.10 Pinks? I found that they fit my foot much better. Edge as well and smear much better, although they're a pain to get on. |
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it's probably about time to try on a different shoe, Champ - there's about 100 to choose from. |
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I love my katanas as well. But I think evolv shoes are designed for people with mortons toe. Or at least some models are. |
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Thanks Mike and Ted. Appreciate the advice. |
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The pinks do seem to have a more blunt shape for mortons toe. I haven't purchased a pair, just did a demo at the gym and they seemed to have a narrow heel similar to the katana lace (which I own two pairs of). |
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Thanks everyone for the recommendations. If I find something that works I'll update the thread. |
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+1 on the Five Ten Pinks. The last is probably going to be perfect for you. New Blanco coming out soon too. I'm also really loving the Quantum, so you might check those as well. |
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I moved from Katanas to Scarpa Vapor V's. A revelation. The heel never fit well on the Katanas. Just felt mushy. My big toe and index toe are about the same length. I moved from the 5.10 pinks to Katanas. I thought the pinks fit was good until I put on those Vapor V's. Love the fit of LS trailrunners (sized way up) and the TX series approach shoes (sized slightly down), but I don't think LS rock shoes are for me. |
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Stoneland vcs for edging at street size +1/2 for all day. They have a wide toe box and is a good fit for a mortons toe. |
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11EE Street shoe |
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Just a followup, I ended up buying the TC Pros in 45 (same size as the Katanas). Out of the box they felt comfy with ultralight wool sockliners on, without cranking down on the laces. I climbed with them all day yesterday and they were "a revelation" as some had mentioned...they seemed to edge and smear the same as the Katanas...the only difference was no pain. |
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I've loved scarpa shoes for my "index toe' longest feet. Especially the instinct and vapor series. The vapor is probably closest to the same camber (just guessing), and they use the same rubber. |
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Yeah, the tongue is a pain in the ass on the TC Pros, but they are incredibly comfortable for how well they edge and are amazing in cracks. |