Amputation of right index finger due to lead fall in climbing gym

Hang in there Austin. It looks to be healing remarkably fast given the initial injury was 3 weeks ago. You'll be cranking on those two middle fingers pretty good, maybe tape them. Seems like cupping the thumb in a bit would add some stability too. You're positive attitude is an good example for all of us. One of the employees at the gym where I climb is an adaptive climber and super solid dude (missing hand). He recently kicked ass at the adaptive comp in Atlanta.

Gnarly. Now go free climb the Dawn Wall in one push!

One in the pink, three in the stink?

Good luck on your recovery, man. That's a crazy accident.

Rob M wrote:Hang in there Austin. It looks to be healing remarkably fast given the initial injury was 3 weeks ago. You'll be cranking on those two middle fingers pretty good, maybe tape them. Seems like cupping the thumb in a bit would add some stability too. You're positive attitude is an good example for all of us. One of the employees at the gym where I climb is an adaptive climber and super solid dude (missing hand). He recently kicked ass at the adaptive comp in Atlanta.

Austin, hang in and be patient with it. My dad lost his two middle fingers (just had thumb, index and pinkie on his right hand), and he did very, very little left handed. The only major thing he taught himself to do left handed was pistol shooting, which is ironic, because his fingers were shot off in WWII.

Your hand will adapt, shift fingers closer, what fingers do what, build strength and callous where it never was before, and sort it all out. Remember, hands also use nerves, tendons and muscles all the way up your arm, so those all have to adapt too. Stay really diligent with whatever the PT folks want you to do. Hardest thing for my dad was packing a coffee mug without it tipping!

Best, H.

Hey Austin,

Looks like you are in good spirits. I heard you were already bouldering V5's again! Sick dude! I'm 15 years since I lost my pinky and like I told you, my 3 fingered hand is stronger than my regular one. I hope that's the case for you.

Good Luck!

Tony

Love the PMA. PUSH THE LIMITS.

Also that picture of TC is hilarious.

I had a severed left index finger that was reattached and is now useless. Be happy you had it removed. I will probably have to remove mine in a couple of years as it is not healing properly. That being said I climbed just as hard after I lost the finger than I did before(harder in sport). It is a pain for crack climbing because I still have the crooked bastard(you wont have this problem) and really crimpy bouldering has become a bit more difficult. I hangboard alot to keep the other fingers strong and it hasn't held me back. Your other fingers will compensate. Keep up the good attitude. I got a little sad considering I was making decent money playing music and it didn't help me out in that realm. Climbing however I am good to go. Welcome to the stub club.

Oh yeah. Go to the red, wild iris, etc... pocket climbing became surprisingly easier. Watch all your friends struggle on those two finger pockets while you play it off because they all feel like jugs.

Thanks all, I really appreciate all of the support. I am healing up surprisingly well. I've had a Creek trip planned for Oct 19-23 for some time now, I won't let this accident get in the way of it. I'm back climbing again.

So sorry about the accident thanks for sharing the story, analysis, and road to recovery. Hope it's a speedy one! Keep crushing!

austinmartin, the hand looks great!

Have you tried belaying with that hand? Or is that a left handed operation now? Just curious. Imagining what hands actually do, that grip seems more compromised than any climbing grip would be.

Yes, I've been belaying with it quite a bit! No problem there. I have started face climbing again, I am going to wait a bit longer for the skin to heal before throwing it into cracks.

-A

This post made me feel queasy, but also inspiring.
The good thing is, we all eventually die, leaving all our injuries behind, and even an immaculate body has to go. Maybe we'll get new ones!