Complete gear list for alpine mountaineering

Hi all,

I am EXTREMELY new to mountaineering - so much I haven't done any mountaineering. I live in the Southeast United States and in my state the highest peak is ~ 4000ft, which I have hiked. Anyways, I am looking to get into mountaineering more and more - I even plan to move to the Pacific Northwest (United States), so that will give me more experience.

In my searches I have found numerous complete gear lists, but they are all different - as a newbie I was wonder if anyone (or everyone) could give me insight into some good brands or specific products that would be good for climbing mountains such as Rainier, Baker, Hood, etc but would also be good for Denali or more down the road (6+ years). Any insight would be appreciate - especially what product AND why you are chose this as your favorite,

Thanks all!

I've broken a gear list down into easier past so users can quote if they need to (of course - this was taken from a website - but it is a list that I see common to most sites, they just can't agree on gear types, etc):

Footwear:

Booties:
Lightweight socks:
Midweight / heavy socks:
Liner socks:
Climbing boots:
Anything else:

Clothing

Lightweight long underwear top:
Expedition weight long underwear tops:
Lightweight long underwear bottoms:
Expedition weight underwear bottoms:
Jacket synthetic or fleece:
Synthetic insulated pants:
Down suit:
OR
Down insulated jacket w/ hood:
Down pants:
Wind shirts / light shell jacket:
One piece climbing shell:
Anything else:

Head & Hand Gear

Liner glove:
Windstopper fleece gloves:
Insulated climbing gloves:
Mittens with liners:
Balaclava:
Face mask:
Anything else:

Climbing Equipment

Ice axe:
Crampons:
Harness:
Carabiners:
Webbing:
Ascenders:
Rappel device:
Anything else:

Camping Gear

Backpack:
Day pack:
Two Sleeping bags:
Compression stuff sacks:
Sleeping pad:
Foam pad:
Trekking poles: Should extend and shorten (Leki 3-section, Black Diamond).
Large mug, plastic bowl, fork and spoon:
Tent (4 season):
Anything else:

Accessories

Sunglasses:
Glacier glasses:
Ski goggles:
Headlamp w/ spare bulb:
Anything else:

Cheers

Apologies for thread drift, but there's an old piece of advice attributed (I think) to the pioneering British mountaineer Eric Shipton, or maybe it was his climbing partner H.W. Tilman.

- Make a list of everything you might possibly need
- Cross off anything that isn't absolutely essential
- Take half of what's left

Has anyone come across this? I've tried searching for a source but without success.

Tilman (or maybe it was Shipton) also famously said that any expedition worth doing can be planned on the back of an envelope.

Good skills, better judgment, and a clear and sober acknowledgment that you understand the subjective / objective risk ratio in mountaineering is stood on its head relative to rock climbing. That and the pacific infrared satellite loops and jetstream forecasts are indispensable tools for climbing PNW volcanoes.

What's coming in...

What's on tap out in the Pacific (are there four back-to-back fronts lined up out to Japan leaving you with very narrow weather windows - i.e. are you feeling lucky?)

Pacific Jet Stream (is it going to be bearing down right on top of you dragging god knows what with it?)

Your gear list looks like something for an 8000M peak, you're not there yet. I'll bite and go item by item for guidance
Footwear:

Booties: super nice for camping, but you are mountaineering, think about how many days you will be camping on snow. If it's 2-3 nights or less, not necessary.
socks: experiment and find something that works for you, probably not multiple liners etc. learn how to dry your socks at breaks and at night. A dry pair of socks is a real morale booster, consider putting your second pair in a zip lock.
Climbing boots: check out Andy Kirkpatrick and coldthistle websites for a good start. Probably your biggest investment. Don't go for super duper 8000M boots just yet, I like Sportiva Trangos or similar to start off. Must be comfy, stiff, crampon compatible, waterproof/warm, and light!!

Clothing
Lightweight long underwear top: get a T-shirt and a long sleeve, not too thick. Sometimes you wear one and sweat on the approach, and then switch to a fresh dry shirt when you really start climbing. Remember being wet cools you really fast, this is a disadvantage or advantage depending on the situation.
Expedition weight long underwear tops: get some sort of <16 oz with a tight hoodie and thumbloops, tons of options
Lightweight long underwear bottoms: again not too heavy, something that doesn't bind up too much at the knees.
Expedition weight underwear bottoms: not yet
Jacket synthetic or fleece: 60g fill synthetics are awesome, many, many different options. You might not get this one perfect first try, look for tons of used options.
Synthetic insulated pants: same as booties, super nice but not essential at first.
Down suit: not for anything outside of Antarctica or 8000M peaks
OR
Down insulated jacket w/ hood: tons of options. Go for 800 fill down or good synthetic fill. Look into the pros and cons for down vs synthetic. Hard to say but don't get something too big at first, maybe under 20 oz for down or 25oz for synthetic.
Down pants: not yet
Wind shirts / light shell jacket: 3-5 oz hooded 100% nylon wind shirt is my favorite layer. Wind resistant, highly breathable, bug proof, super pack able.
One piece climbing shell: get a nice shell jacket, 16 oz or lighter. Lots of options, make sure it fits well when you wear a harness, helmet, and reach above your head with both arms.

Anything else: soft shell pants (maybe with waterproof knees/butt) with gaiterloops (KEY) for bungee. Put your crampons underneath bungee cord.

Head & Hand Gear
Google Kelly Cordes Glove systems for good ideas. Don't go too heavy on your primary gloves.

Balaclava: get one that's adaptable, can cover mouth or go under chin. Don't go windproof
Face mask: get a UPF rated buff
Anything else:

Climbing Equipment
Pay for some guided snow skills, crevasse rescue. Read a lot and figure out what you want.
Ice axe: recommend BD venom, Petzl summtec, DMM raptor, grivel air tech Evo
Crampons: front and rear bails, 12-14 points, horizontal or vertical frontpoints. Sarken, sabretooth, g-12
Harness: BD couloir, Petzl Sita, arcteryx, under 16 oz
Carabiners: wiregates, can buy used here, light lockers
Webbing: dyneema
Ascenders: not needed
Rappel device: arc guide or Reverso style
Anything else:

Camping Gear

Backpack: 40-50 liter, <3lbs, good axe, crampon, helmet attachments. Compressible, fits well. Black diamond, cold cold world, Patagonia, Cilo gear, hyperlite Mtn gear are good starting points. Try to keep your pack weight less than 20% of your body weight.
Day pack: same thing
Two Sleeping bags: get a 20-30° down bag. 800 fill. Wear your clothes in bag to go lighter. Feathered friends vireo, western mountaineering ultralight series, mountain hardware phantom. Expensive, but if cared for lasts 10+ years. Eventually you'll get a winter bag but not yet
Compression stuff sacks:
Sleeping pad: sub 16 oz, closed cell or self inflated, I like my thermarest neoair
Foam pad: I like a removable pad from my pack to sit on
Trekking poles: Should extend and shorten (Leki 3-section, Black Diamond): nice for descent! Not essential but nice to have
Large mug, plastic bowl, fork and spoon: spork, jetboil or other integrated pot/stove. Eat out of freezer bags.
Tent (4 season): consider sleeping below tree line or in the car and going car to car
Anything else: water bottle! Something that won't freeze and be useless, 1-3 liters depends on personal preference/speed

Accessories

Sunglasses: get good wrap around polarized lenses, good for all but the brightest days
Glacier glasses:
Ski goggles:
Headlamp w/ spare bulb: yes! LED, sub 5 oz,
Anything else: Sunscreen & lip balm easily accessable.

Knowledge and fitness weigh nothing and are way more important than anything else

Read any books by Mike Clelland, extreme alpinism by Mark twight, and Alpine Climbing techniques to get you higher by Mark Houston

Cheers

First of all, don't assume that you will be using much if any of the same gear on Denali that you will be using on Mount Hood. On the long road of climbs of steadily increasing technical difficulty and overall commitment, you will buy new gear and replace existing gear as you become more aware of your own needs. Focus for now on what you need to get started.

Second, the fact that the lists don't all agree on gear should be telling. There is no hard and fast rule about exactly what gear you need on a climb, and experienced climbers will argue forever about the merits of synthetic vs. down and whether you should always pack a hard shell, favorite diameter of rope, you get the idea.

One thing I see in your list is a lot of gear that is obviously meant for colder conditions. Others may disagree (see above) but I'd recommend worrying about that stuff later. Don't skimp on rain gear and minimal insulation, it can get nasty cold and rainy or even snowy any month of the year on the mountains, but you shouldn't need double plastic boots, ski goggles, or heavy parka for any beginner climbs you are likely to do.

Buy the gear incrementally, and buy new things as you need them. A shiny new piece of gear is exciting and can be motivating, but getting a whole bunch at once and not using it all right away or not being sure how to use it is a recipe for frustration and burnout.

The biggest piece of advice, which you've probably already heard, is that by far your most important asset in the mountains is your partners, because they are the ones you learn from and get better with. This is a sport that you can sort of learn from a book (Freedom of the Hills etc.) but only to a point, you have to get out there and execute. Consider joining a club (the PNW has several), posting regularly for partners, and possibly hiring the services of a guide.

Oh yeah, and it's as addictive as you probably are guessing, have fun!

Jon Rhoderick wrote:Your gear list looks like something for an 8000M peak, you're not there yet. I'll bite and go item by item for guidance

Hi Jon,

Thanks for the list. Yes it was a list from an 8000m trip but I can't seem to find other lists for lower mountains especially ones that I would be climbing (which are waaaaaay below 8000m - doubt I will ever even get there).

I appreciate the help though, and this will be a good base point to go off though.

My advice - Don't worry too much about gear, worry more about getting the skills and experience you need to reach your climbing goals. On your way to your goals, you'll figure out what gear works for you with experience.

Year 1 - The Canadian dollar is really weak right now, buy a flight to Calgary, join a mountaineering class by Yamnuska Guides in the Canadian Rockies, buy the gear you need for that, get some solid knowledge in a short period of Time

Year 2 - Go to Rainier, climb it with your buddy without a guide

Year 3 - Go to Mexico or Ecuador, try a 18,000+ peak, see how you fair at altitude.

Year 4 - Climb Rainier again, by a harder route. On the same Trip bag Adams, Baker and Shasta

Year 5 - Train, hit the West Buttress

As another poster said, knowledge will get you a lot further than gear. Slow your roll, take some classes, and accumulate gear as you go.

Jon Rhoderick's list is great, but I would look for a 50-70L pack instead of a 40-50L one. Yes you could climb any northwest volcano with a 40L pack, but at that point you're committing to going "fast and light", i.e. you're going light so you'd better be fast. If you go on a guided climb or take a skills course you'll be going slow anyway, and the guide service will probably require you have a big pack.

I have to CCW packs, 40L (2 lbs 2 oz) and 70L (3.5 lbs, I think). 40 works on big-ish hills only because I also use a tiny sleeping bag, tent and stove. Haven't done Rainier yet, but I'll probably end up taking the big pack.

I would personally advise going no larger than 45L for a pack. If you learn how to pack and learn what to bring, that size will be plenty large for anything in the continental US.

I am inclined to agree with Nick. I think 50L is big enough for (nearly) everything in the lower 48, especially if we're talking about non-winter routes and less technical routes (and that seems to be the case here). I have found that size to work really well for the Cascades, including climbs with multiple days out (and more technical outings, which require more gear than something like the DC or Emmons). For done-in-a-day climbs (Hood, etc), 20-30L is plenty.

Denali is a completely different ballgame of course, but it doesn't make sense to use Denali-specific gear on Hood (nor to buy Denali gear from the get-go).

(OP, I think that more specific discussion like this one, specifically about packs, is much more valuable than trying to concoct some complete gear list. Food for thought.)

For a point of reference, I did a three day trip in early spring to Colchuck Lake a couple of years ago - we had to bring full winter camping gear along with two ropes and a (too)large rack including pickets, rock gear and ice screws. I managed to do this in relative comfort with my Deuter Guide Lite 32+ pack with the collar extended (roughly 38L). I'll admit that I had a bunch of crap hanging off my pack - helmet, pickets, crampons and closed cell sleeping pad. I eventually got a 45L Patagonia pack for this kind of trip because I think it is better to have everything inside your pack aside from CCF sleeping pads and ice tools in their dedicated slots.

I do not agree on pack size. Although my gear has gotten smaller and lighter I still think I would use most of a 65-70L pack on the longer Rainier routes. I use a 25L or 35L on single day routes, depending on need for helmets and harnesses.

I'll also echo much of what has been said above. There are a few things that you NEED, ice axe, harness, helmet, boots, good socks, good pack, glacier rope, prussiks, gloves, stove, sleeping bag, tent.

The rest of what you need is some experience and training. See if there is a local club you can join. This way you can do some trips with experienced people that will probably be happy to share and teach. Learning how to set up a z-pully for crevasse rescue and how to use prussiks to ascend a rope and self rescue will make you, and your partner(s), feel a lot more save and you can have a lot more fun.

There are lots of fun single day alpine mountains where an ice axe, crampons and a helmet are needed and not much more. Do those and get used to things. Then move try a slightly bigger mountain with an overnighter before you summit the next day. Lots of fun and you'll be surprised at some of the really cool technical mountains you can climb without a lot of gear and travel.

My main concern with a 45 or 50L is that guide companies might want you to have a bigger one. I agree that you could do just about anything in the lower 48 with a 40L, but if you show up to a guide service for your four-day Emmons climb or whatever I think they'll make you rent a bigger pack. Maybe you should just rent, though.

Todd Anderson wrote:My main concern with a 45 or 50L is that guide companies might want you to have a bigger one. I agree that you could do just about anything in the lower 48 with a 40L, but if you show up to a guide service for your four-day Emmons climb or whatever I think they'll make you rent a bigger pack. Maybe you should just rent, though.

depends on how technical and what season. Start adding a rope, rack, winter parka, ice tools, ice screws, 4 season tent, 0 degree bag, etc. and it adds up rather quickly.

Ryan Hamilton wrote:Although my gear has gotten smaller and lighter I still think I would use most of a 65-70L pack on the longer Rainier routes.

I think it depends a lot on the climber, but I think 50L is plenty. I haven't climbed Rainier, but I did just do Adams Glacier, which is probably a similar amount of distance/time, and probably more gear. I carried a 50L, and so did one of my climbing partners. I have also carried a 50L for a few other overnight objectives, such as the Thayer Headwall at N. Sister; while this is a shorter climb than Rainier, it's also more technical, so we had a full 70m rope, screws, rock gear, 2 tools, etc. And, in reality, once you have enough stuff to overnight, an extra day doesn't make much difference, it's just a bit more food.

Also, keep in mind that most people are probably not carrying a 70L pack on a climb like Liberty Ridge, it would simply be too big and heavy. If it's big enough for Lib Ridge, it's big enough for the southside routes.

In the end, it depends on what you consider "necessities," I've seen guys overnight with packs everywhere from 30L to 80L.

Todd Anderson wrote:My main concern with a 45 or 50L is that guide companies might want you to have a bigger one.

If we're talking about guiding company requirements, I think that the answer is probably different. I would recommend a 40-50L for independent trips, for guided trips you've got to use whatever they recommend, and I have no experience with that.

Gaiters. Definitely add gaiters to your list. It's mandatory for snow, and useful for scree.

haven't read all of this so excuse me if someone has already said this.

Skis.

skiing is the future (and currently) most important skill set and gear to have for mountaineering.

christoph benells wrote:haven't read all of this so excuse me if someone has already said this. Skis. skiing is the future (and currently) most important skill set and gear to have for mountaineering.

Skiing is fun, but by no means is it the most important skill set and gear to have.

Dan Baker wrote: climbing mountains such as Rainier, Baker, Hood, etc but would also be good for Denali

All of these mountains are done regularly with skis by competent mountaineers, in 1/3 of the time and 1/2 the weight and energy of folks with boots or snowshoes.

I believe Rainier had a complete ski ascent as early as 1930's?

Dan: some more gear lists. Now that we have decided it is not important...

alpineascents.com/gear-list…
andy-kirkpatrick.com/articl…
ukclimbing.com/articles/pag…
petzl.com/en/Sport/News/201…
ukclimbing.com/gear/review.…