Crags around Jackson New Hapshire??

Heading up for the first time to NH and staying in Jackson NH.
Any good crags near there (nearer than Rumney, though I want to hit Rumney on the way up next week!)

Beginning trad climber climbing 5.3-5.6 so far,..usually climb 5.7-5.10 on sport.

Thanks!

Yeah, there's a bit of climbing in that area.

mountainproject.com/v/cathe…

jdejace wrote:Yeah, there's a bit of climbing in that area. mountainproject.com/v/cathe…

At the 5.3 - 5.6 level check out Square Ledge in Pinkham Notch. Some good stuff in that range there.

Cathedral: Childs Play (5.5). You can also set up TRs on some harder stuff after leading (gear anchors). Thin Air (5.6) and Upper Refuse (5.5) are both great multi-pitch at the grade.

There's probably more but that's what comes to mind without looking at the book.

MaxSuffering wrote:At the 5.3 - 5.6 level check out Square Ledge in Pinkham Notch. Some good stuff in that range there. Cathedral: Childs Play (5.5). You can also set up TRs on some harder stuff after leading (gear anchors). Thin Air (5.6) and Upper Refuse (5.5) are both great multi-pitch at the grade. There's probably more but that's what comes to mind without looking at the book.

The first pitch of Beelzebub Corner on whitehorse is another option: mountainproject.com/v/beelz…

If your into slab and ok with runouts on it Standard Route and Cormier Magness might be within your pay grade.

mountainproject.com/v/the-c…

The recommended climbs on Cathedral are sweet, also if you climb child's play you are in a good position to set up TRs on They Died Laughing, Birds Nest, The Slot and Kiddy Crack. I will just say that I would be careful because people may be leading and leaders should get priority on the cliff. So play it by ear and be a gent.

If you are willing to push into 5.7 Funhouse is good, the hardest moves are pretty low, committing, but there is reasonable protection. Then you can finish up on Upper Refuse.

If you are willing to drive towards Lincoln, NH. I have heard good things about Echo Crag ( mountainproject.com/v/echo-…), lots of fun easy trad routes (5.6-5.8).

Likewise Longstack Precipice (farther than Rumney from where you are I think) has a classic 5.6 route I highly recommend (Coyote Rain). There are also some nice 5.10 mixed routes that are pretty well protected at the cruxes (Winter Classic comes to mind).

Mt. Oscar in Zealand Notch is one of my favorite crags in the whites, definitely worth the drive out that way

The base of Mt. Forist in Berlin has seen a lot of development of safe mixed routes lately, the majority in the 5.7 - 5.9 I have some beta on this place and I believe Brad White at IME can help you out with that as well

eagle cliff is in jackson and has some moderate trad and enough sport routes in your range for a good day out
mountainproject.com/v/eagle…

If you're interested in multi pitch:

whites ledge in albany, 2 four pitch 5.7s with a lot of variety in a great setting

+1 for courmier magness on whitehorse is also very moderate and relatively safe by slab standards