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Sterling Fusion Photon 7.8 vs Evolution Duetto 8.4mm

Original Post
Jan Tarculas · · San Diego, Ca · Joined Mar 2010 · Points: 937

Any reviews on these ropes? I want to use them primarily for party of 3 climbing on multipitch routes. Sterling website doesn't say if the Evolution Duetto is certified as a twin rope. Does anyone know if it is?

Clint White aka Faulted Geologist · · Lawrence, KS · Joined Jan 2015 · Points: 151

So far as I understood it, if rated as a half rope, it can be used as a twin, but maybe not vice Vera. The REI quote below seems to corroborate that, though the half rope section of their article seems to leave that open.

stephdavis.co/blog/straight…

rei.com/learn/expert-advice…
"On the plus side, twin ropes tend to be a bit thinner than half ropes, making for a lighter and less bulky system. "

Clint White aka Faulted Geologist · · Lawrence, KS · Joined Jan 2015 · Points: 151

I personally want two Beal Opera 8.5mm ropes, the lightest single rated rope in the world, to run as half ropes. Check it out, not much heavier than thin ass Ice Line or Duetto.

Jon H · · PC, UT · Joined Nov 2009 · Points: 118

Keep in mind that 8.5mm single lines will be significantly less durable than an equal diameter 8.5 half rope. The single will be "stronger" but will wear out significantly faster because to achieve that strength, it has a much lower proportion of sheath, and that paper-thin sheath will wear out faster than you can say 'core shot.'

Ray Pinpillage · · West Egg · Joined Jul 2010 · Points: 180

I have a couple of sets of Photons. They are my go to twins/doubles. I carry a 40m Photon rando chord when I need something light for alpine. They are great handling ropes.

I don't think the Duetto is dual rated but I'm not certain. I looked at it years ago but opted for the photon due to weight.

yukonjack · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Mar 2015 · Points: 15

Geo...Some purists, might tell you NOT to use half ropes as twins.
The risk being the load put on the pro if you fall on both (half) lines clipped through on a single piece.
SOP for half roping is to alternate the clips/ropes.

For the OP...I don't have the Photons, but I have two Duetto 8.4 Dry 40s. YMMV for multi-pitch work, but they are what you'd expect from Sterling; Nice hand, feel lighter than I thought they would.

Jan Tarculas · · San Diego, Ca · Joined Mar 2010 · Points: 937

So I'm an idiot. I ordered the Mammut Genesis half/twin rope expecting two ropes in the order...I didn't know you're suppose to order two...so I just got one rope...

yukonjack · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Mar 2015 · Points: 15
JeffL · · Salt Lake City · Joined Jun 2012 · Points: 65

I love the photon. I also have the 8.0 mammut rope, both are stellar. The mammut has a middle marker. Very similar weight

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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