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Valley Uprising: Documentary or Entertainment Film?
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Laron Lemon wrote: Several people have made similar comments, and I disagree. Has Chris Sharma never set a route? Has Adam Ondra never climbed those routes he set? And set his own? I think he did. Also, those crack climbs you mentioned, that a guide book was written for, why do you not consider those routes being set by Harding or whoever else? Were they not the first to climb it, and document it? I am genuinely curious about your position, and look forward to your response. (: Cheers.You don't know what "set" means apparently. At least as it is commonly used in this context. No Harding, Robbins, etc. never "set" a route. |
Laron Lemon wrote: Several people have made similar comments, and I disagree. Has Chris Sharma never set a route? Has Adam Ondra never climbed those routes he set? And set his own? I think he did. Also, those crack climbs you mentioned, that a guide book was written for, why do you not consider those routes being set by Harding or whoever else? Were they not the first to climb it, and document it? I am genuinely curious about your position, and look forward to your response. (: Cheers.No, setting a route is what is done in a gym. When you bolt a route or do a FA of a route outside you are developing a route not setting it. Setting implies putting the holds where they are, outside doing something like that is generally frowned upon. |
Laron Lemon wrote: Several people have made similar comments, and I disagree. Has Chris Sharma never set a route? Has Adam Ondra never climbed those routes he set? And set his own? I think he did. Also, those crack climbs you mentioned, that a guide book was written for, why do you not consider those routes being set by Harding or whoever else? Were they not the first to climb it, and document it? I am genuinely curious about your position, and look forward to your response. (: Cheers.It's really rather simple... In a gym, a route setter is deciding on what holds to use (meaning shape/size/configuration) and where to place them to create a route of a particular difficulty. Outside, someone establishing a route (sport) or doing a FA or FFA is figuring out how to use the existing, natural holds and where best to protect. So the key difference is the creation of an artificial route that can be changed next week vs discovering a passage up a particular section of cliff using naturally occurring hand and foot holds. |
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I was just happy that a bunch of friends, climbers or not, could sit around and enjoy watching the whole thing. |
Brian Malone wrote: you probably don't smoke 'tons of weed' so you probably won't get it.. Out of curiosity, Laron, can you please list some climbing movies that you think are better?"you probably don't smoke 'tons of weed' so you probably won't get it.. " -hmmmmmm. what do I do at crags? what do I do when I get home from work? what to I do to relax? hmmmm, nope cannot think of it. Something is affecting short term memory. (; Vertical Limit! Haha. Not off of the top of my head, no. I am just barely getting into the whole history of climbing thang, and have only participated in this sport for about three years now (first two years in a gym, and only the last year outside). In my spare time I tend to read non-fiction, and where this was purported to be a documentary about climbing, I guess I just expected more information, and less dramatized conflict- my fault for having expectations really. I really did enjoy the film though, and you are right how it does highlight the culture of climbers from that era, (well, at least one very small group of climbers). Something my friend Brett mentioned was the development of camera technology- before 1990 it was uncommon to own a video camera (duh). For what I am looking for it seems books are the best way to go for right now. Do you have any you would recommend? |
Marc801 wrote: It's really rather simple... In a gym, a route setter is deciding on what holds to use (meaning shape/size/configuration) and where to place them to create a route of a particular difficulty. Outside, someone establishing a route (sport) or doing a FA or FFA is figuring out how to use the existing, natural holds and where best to protect. So the key difference is the creation of an artificial route that can be changed next week vs discovering a passage up a particular section of cliff using naturally occurring hand and foot holds.Thank you for your clarification Mark. I guess that is where I had the wrong idea about the application of the word "set" in climbing. The word being used seems to be "establish", outside of a gym. Thank you! Cheers. |
Laron Lemon wrote: Do you have any you would recommend?1. Freedom of the Hills, 8th edition 2. Basic Rockcraft and Advanced Rockcraft R.Robbins. (both are a few years old) 3. Rock Climbing Anchors: A Comprehensive Guide (From Mountaineeringbooks.org) 4. Rock Climbing, 2nd edition: Mastering basic Skills (From Mountaineeringbooks.org) 5. Any book by John Long in the FalconGuides series (but only the ones by John Long, the rest suck) check out Johns book on anchors - I think it is one of the very best ever. 6. check out the 'Mountaineers Outdoor Expert Climbing Bundle' from Mountaineeringbooks.org 12 books 40% less as a set. |
Pnelson wrote: Hmm, maybe "several people have made similar comments" because you are wrong. Please tell us which outdoor crags you frequent where the verb for "to establish a new route" is commonly accepted as "set."Guideline #1: don't be a jerk Mark Malone already corrected my wrongness. Thank you for doing it as well. I have lots of climbing terminology to learn apparently. Thank you. |
kennoyce wrote: No, setting a route is what is done in a gym. When you bolt a route or do a FA of a route outside you are developing a route not setting it. Setting implies putting the holds where they are, outside doing something like that is generally frowned upon.I guess I was wrong about set vs establish. Many have pointed that out. Haha. Thanks for your clarification and following Guideline #1! (: Cheers. |
Brian Malone wrote: 1. Freedom of the Hills, 8th edition 2. Basic Rockcraft and Advanced Rockcraft R.Robbins. (both are a few years old) 3. Rock Climbing Anchors: A Comprehensive Guide (From Mountaineeringbooks.org) 4. Rock Climbing, 2nd edition: Mastering basic Skills (From Mountaineeringbooks.org) 5. Any book by John Long in the FalconGuides series (but only the ones by John Long, the rest suck) check out Johns book on anchors - I think it is one of the very best ever. 6. check out the 'Mountaineers Outdoor Expert Climbing Bundle' from Mountaineeringbooks.org 12 books 40% less as a set.Dude, you are awesome. Thank you! |
Bill Kirby wrote:I was just happy that a bunch of friends, climbers or not, could sit around and enjoy watching the whole thing.Bill.... yes so true it is just fun, like climbing. When my Mother saw my face in that movie.... she knew right then that I had lied to her about having a summer job in the Valley and about the pot smoking thing........ "Yes Mom" was all I could say. |
BrokenChairs wrote:If you establish 3/4 of a route but then bolt on a hold is it now a set route?No, it's an aid climb. |
Marc801 wrote: No, it's an aid climb.well played |
Marc801 wrote: Outside, someone establishing a route...Word of the day: establish. Context yo! Haha. Thanks man! |
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Laron.... go get the Green Guide Book for Yosemite. |
Laron Lemon wrote: Word of the day: establish.Or develop. In France the term is "opening" a route. |
Marc801 wrote: Or develop. In France the term is "opening" a route.All these are generally in the context of sport climbing. |
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Recommended reading (on climbing history) |
Eric Engberg wrote: All these are generally in the context of sport climbing.Thank you! |
