Borah Peak conditions?

Hi there, I'm heading though ID in mid-May and am thinking about tagging Borah peak. The Lost River Ranger district didn't have any info on recent conditions so I thought I'd post here and see if there were local resources to look into. Potentially looking for a partner as well.
Thanks!

Hi Sarah! Summit post should have more info for Mount Borah, in general. Close by town is Mackay, Idaho, which is about 7500'.

A fun one to check is the "Stanley Sawtooth cam", which is a live camera for the Sawtooth range. Base elevation near those is about 6500', so use your judgement.

We had a big snow year here, but don't know how deep Mackay is right now. Snow level here (Boise) was maybe 3500-4000'? just this morning. Mid May is still winter up higher, if that's what you're after. :-)

Also, weatherstreet.com has maps of estimated current snow depths. Borah is about 1/3 of the way between Mackay and Challis.

I'd expect dry conditions down low and mostly snow above about 10k mid-may. Ice axe, crampons, and mountain boots almost certainly mandatory, especially considering the winter we had. Should be fun!

For reference from last year:

Hey Brian, thanks for the photo. That looks like shallow snow over a scree field, correct? I find it's very difficult to have a controlled self arrest when climbing on soft snow only a few inches deep that sits on top of scree... Not impossible, but less desirable.

Have you climbed it in winter? The late summer walk-up doesn't interest me so much.

Sarah Lydecker wrote:Hey Brian, thanks for the photo. That looks like shallow snow over a scree field, correct? I find it's very difficult to have a controlled self arrest when climbing on soft snow only a few inches deep that sits on top of scree... Not impossible, but less desirable. Have you climbed it in winter? The late summer walk-up doesn't interest me so much.

Done this route in early summer:

mountainproject.com/v/north…

Very fun! Tops out right at the summit. Highly recommended if you have the requisit skills/experience.

Not sure I understand the self arrest comment...its not the type of terrain that most folks (especially climbers) would be at risk of falling. Where you might, the snow would be deep enough.

Thanks Brian! That route looks awesome but is out of my ability. Maybe one day! I'd be doing to walk-up approach.

I was thinking of this as I would think of a cascade volcano- better to climb up when totally covered in snow- mt St. Helens would be an example. I don't plan on falling, but it's easier to get purchase with your ice axe in decent snow and not melty snow that's only a couple inches deep and covers a scree pile. But I'm not framiliar with the mountains out in Idaho so maybe I'm overthinking things and the route is better than the dust piles I'm used to.

Sarah Lydecker wrote:But I'm not framiliar with the mountains out in Idaho so maybe I'm overthinking things and the route is better than the dust piles I'm used to.

I've only been down the standard route, not up...but...I found the trail to be kinda sucky. Steep in spots with no switchbacks on hard dirt. Tough on the legs. And...its a gob of vertical. Start early!

Good description and photo's here:

summitpost.org/borah-peak/1…

The chickenout ridge area is a bit exposed. Early season, I'd probably opt for at least an ice axe if not full on boots/crampons.

Cheers!

Mid May will be very different than anything you'll find in April. It is so interesting how fast the LRR melts out. I was there two weeks ago there was 6-8 feet of snow in some places. Give it 6 weeks of 40-50 degree days and you'll only see islands of snow 3 inches deep.

Right now and for the next two months is when things start to get exciting for the range. Once the freeze/thaw cycles get in full swing, so do people's tools. Ever been ice climbing at 10,000 feet? Sure it takes a day of hiking to get there, but you will have the place to your self and probably a first ascent if you do your homework. Photo credit to Splattski.
Also right now is the best time for Spring Skiing. The gullies and couloirs are full and soft later in the day. Read all about it below.

network54.com/Forum/105717/…

kevinhansen wrote:Mid May will be very different than anything you'll find in April. It is so interesting how fast the LRR melts out. I was there two weeks ago there was 6-8 feet of snow in some places. Give it 6 weeks of 40-50 degree days and you'll only see islands of snow 3 inches deep. Right now and for the next two months is when things start to get exciting for the range. Once the freeze/thaw cycles get in full swing, so do people's tools. Ever been ice climbing at 10,000 feet? Sure it takes a day of hiking to get there, but you will have the place to your self and probably a first ascent if you do your homework. Photo credit to Splattski. Also right now is the best time for Spring Skiing. The gullies and couloirs are full and soft later in the day. Read all about it below. network54.com/Forum/105717/…

Howdy again, Sarah!

Lost River range is all over the place now, as predicted. The link just above has excellent info, including live weather cams.

Some folks who were there Friday (lost river peak), almost completed a soft snow ascent, before the clouds started closing in above and below, and they bailed ahead of a storm system that rolled in that night. We're in Boise, and I think it followed them home, tracking exactly from there to here. Funnier than heck watching it on the radar!

Have fun, hope your trip is on! Helen

Hey Sarah,

I'm looking for a partner to tag the North Face route of Borah mid May as well. Let me know if you're interested!

anyone been up recently? id love a borah conditions report!

goingUp wrote:anyone been up recently? id love a borah conditions report!

Check out the link in this thread. Live webcam at Mackay, on the south end of Lost River range, second cam on the north end.

What the N. face looked like in late June 2012. Poons + ice axes were used but never uncoiled the rope. I certainly recommend taking one though getting to the summit from the north is exposed and condition dependent. We went up and over then slogged on a ranch road back to where we started. Do not get fooled by the false trail after chicken shit ridge. Have fun

Kevin Chuba wrote: Do not get fooled by the false trail after chicken shit ridge. Have fun

With respect to Borah, there is another website that has a similar discussion.
network54.com/Forum/105717/…

Kevin hit the nail on the head. There is a braided trail system over the top of Chicken Out Ridge. I take a different trail every time, not by choice.

I say just go over a try it out. Quit scoping it from your laptop, just get in the car, make the drive, and hike till you can't. Either you top out, or you don't. Either way it was a fun day and an education.
Kevin