Best single pitch finger/smear/stem dihedrals
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Really like this kind of climbing. I'm thinking the first 20 feet of Coarse & Buggy (11b) in Josh. Obviously the Venturi Effect (12+) comes to mind. Looking for suggestions-best in 5.11 range but 10s and 12s also appreciated! Anywhere in the states-mostly single pitch best. Cheers. |
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Staying with Josh, Spiderline has some epic thin crack/power stemming, albeit much burlier than Course and Buggy. |
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Straight Shot on the Alcohol Wall in Red Rock is all of that. |
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29 Palms (11d+++) and Warrior Eagle (12b) in JT. Another vote for Straight Shot (11d/12a) in RR. 29 Palms is the hardest of the bunch. |
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Rainbow Wall is the mega-route in this style but here are some others |
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Trout Creek has the best concentration of that climbing style for any single wall in North America or perhaps the world. It is just one wall, but the density of 5 star routes is outstanding. Pretty much every route these is a crack in a 120 degree corner, with every crack size from pinched seams, tips, fingers, hands, fists, and wide represented. Most routes offer a good mix of stemming and jamming. There are a lot of finger cracks, although it seems that the best of these tend to be in the 5.12 range. There are also some outstanding (and exciting) stem routes where the cracks pinch to sub-tips. If you like this type of climbing, scheduling a trip to Trout would be well worth it. Go in October or early November; hot in summer, cold in winter, bird closures in spring. |
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Romantic Warrior in the Needles The Shadow in Squamish vimeo.com/19544985 Book of Hate, Yosemite Changing Corners youtube.com/watch?v=yS63AdR… Ok maybe I left the grades you were thinking. |
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Not single pitch but Green Arch at Tahquitz |
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The Dark Side, on Voodoo Dome. Just to the right of the Emperor crack. |
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Edge of Pan (skip to ~5min) |
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Aerial book (11a) and Over the Hill in Eldo (10b). |
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Awesome. The shadow is a dream. Wow. |
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Not my cross to bear in Penitente is awesome (11a/b). mountainproject.com/v/not-m… |
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Some good shit thrown up here. If you're a crack climber, you've gotta love this style. Gotta be able to layback, stem, palm, chimney, or do whatever it takes when that crack pinches out.. |
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Lots of good stems on the columnar stone. Pure Palm in the Lower Gorge of Smith stands out in my memory, as does Dark Star, although Pure Palm is more of a stembox than a dihedral. The Oak Creek Waterfall has some incredible stems on good stone as well, the route American Caesar being among the best pure stemming I've done there. |
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Cosmosis (9+) on Bell Buttress in Boulder Canyon |
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Davidson's Dihedral at Paradise Forks. |
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Inner Chi at the Kung Fu Theater in Zion. |
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Great topic! |
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+1 for Rainbow Wall, Trout Creek, and Sunshine Dihedral at Smith. Also at Smith is Lion's Chair and many routes in the Lower Gorge. |