Critique my May 2016 Denali gear

I was just reading a post by Orphan 26 at mountainproject.com/v/criti… where he asks everybody to critique his gear, and I wanted to do the same thing! I'm slated for the AAI Denali climb May 9-29, and would love to get some feedback from everyone on my gear. Here's what I've got:

Base layer: Patagonia capilene hermal weight
Mid layer: Mammut Sahale tech fleece(14.5 oz.)
Wind shell: Mountain Hardwear Mixaction (1 lb. 1 oz.)
Puffy: Mammut Pigot w/ 110g Primaloft Silver down-blend (1 lb. 3 oz.)
Hard shell: Marmot Precip (13.1 oz.)
Parka: Mountain Hardwear Absolute Zero w/ 530g 800 FP down (2 lb. 13 oz.)

Base layer: Patagonia capilene thermal weight
Soft shell: Mammut Traleika
Puffy: Marmot 8000m bib pants w/ 800+ FP down (2 lb. 1 oz.)
Hard shell: Marmot Precip (9 oz.)

Glove lines: North Face e-Tip (not a huge fan)
Gloves: BD split-finger Guide (didn't keep my hands warm on Rainier)
Mitts: Mountain Equipment Fitzroy

Liner socks: SmartWool
Socks: SmartWool Heavy Expeditions, Lorpen TEPAP
Boots: La Sportiva Olympus Mons Evo (newest model)

I'm wanting a pair of warmer liners, warmer gloves, and warmer mitts if possible. I have Raynaud's, which makes the bloodflow to my extremities piss poor. On Rainier I first tried wearing the liners and gloves with hand warmers, and after the first day had to switch to the liners and mitts with hand warmers, and even then my hands were cold a lot of the time. I'd love some suggestions on warmer handwear.

No clue on gloves that would be warmer than the BD Guide gloves. Looking at the following mitts:

1. Rab 8000m expedition mitts ($175, 280g, 850FP hydrophobic down)
rab.equipment/us/shop/expediti...
2. Marmot's 8000m series ($275, 360g, 700+ FP down. There's gotta be some reason the Marmots are $100 more than most other mitts, right??)?
marmot.com/products/details/80...
3. OR Firebrand ($290, 386g Enduraloft)
military.outdoorresearch.co…
4. MH Absolute Zero ($180, 310g, Q Shield 700 FP down)

What do y'all think? Suggestions?

Thanks!

Daniel

Matt.Zia wrote:I don't have experience on Denali so take this with a grain of salt. The Marmot Precip was the worst rain jacket I've ever used. Precip is a pretty good descriptor of what happens on the inside. Your hard shells are going to come out when the brown stuff really hits the whirly thing and it's worth it to spend a bit more. You probably don't need a $600 dead bird Goretex Pro shell, but you'll also probably be happier in something other than the $100 raincoat. I'd say the same thing about the Precip pants. Couple years ago I decided to finally get a nice pair of rain pants before a trip, while most of my friends still had their cheap pants and at the end of a month, I was the only one who hadn't torn theirs from ankle to crotch. Like I said, take it with a grain of salt. My gut though, says that if a cheap raincoat/hard shell isn't good enough for walking around Colorado, it probably won't cut it for Denali

I would add that I have the Mammot precip set and do actually like the jacket but I do not like the pants. Feels like I'm wearing a thick plastic bag on my legs

Greg J wrote: I would add that I have the Mammot precip set and do actually like the jacket but I do not like the pants. Feels like I'm wearing a thick plastic bag on my legs

I actually didn't mind the way they felt! Are there other hardshell pants that feel more like normal pants, though?

If you're paying for a guide, feel free to ask ascents or institute to put you in touch with him or her to discuss gear. Or continue to get random advice from dudes who haven't been on that hill in may.

just some personal opinions based on my experience on Denali in 2014 (22 days on the mountain) and winter camping/climbing trips in the lower 48.

I wouldnt want to carry the absolute zero or those huge puffy pants. again this is just personal opinion and everyone has there own ability to regulate temps. I used the mountain hardwear nilas and mountain hardwear compressor pants. I was as warm as I expected to be. the abs zero is just so huge.

for gloves I wore:
OR alibi 2 (this version: mountaingear.com/webstore//…)
(light glove)
REI switch backs with fleece liner glove(medium)
OR alti mitts

there were times when it was really cold and we were moving so I was swithcing to my mitts and i needed to swing my arms to keep my hands warm in the switchbacks but i would expect this from everyone.

As expensive as it is, im a big fan 3L gortex for hardshell gear. I wouldnt want to go into such a big trip with anything less.

I wouldnt replace any of the items i took if i were to head back to denali. bring a buff for sure.

wrap some foam around the head of your ice axe (without blocking your adze or pick) and tape it down to keep your hand warmer.

Again everything here is personal opinion and assuming you are climbing the west butt

Tico wrote:If you're paying for a guide, feel free to ask ascents or institute to put you in touch with him or her to discuss gear. Or continue to get random advice from dudes who haven't been on that hill in may.

Super useful advice man...gotta love a smartass. I've talked to a few guides, but I don't think you can underestimate the value of multiple points of view.

SinRopa wrote:A close friend of mine was diagnosed with Raynauds, and used contrast hydrotherapy to prepare herself for an ice climbing trip to Ouray last winter. She's essentially cured at this point, and doesn't exhibit symptoms anymore, regardless of the temps. I'll see if she still has the exact instructions, but it was similar to what I found by Googling it... organicmd.com/raynauds-or-j…

Awesome article! I've never even heard of that contrast hydrotherapy treatment to prep for cold.

I will also add, on summit day and other times like 16 ridge you will be clipping a lot of running pro. I would want 5 fingered warm gloves for this (like my switchbacks) it would be harder to do with the split finger or a mitt, at there is A LOT of running pro.

Danielneallewis wrote: Super useful advice man...gotta love a smartass. I've talked to a few guides, but I don't think you can underestimate the value of multiple points of view.

Considering how poor most of the advice given here is, i think you can.

I was on Denali in May of 14. As far as gloves I had punishers, guides, and Masherbrum Mitts. I used the Masherbrums on summit day and they ended up being overkill for me, however I think I have pretty good circulation to my hands and feet. If you want I'll sell you my pair for a good price, they're a large and in like-new shape.

Just got my hands on a pair of OR Firebrand mitts with liners. Probably gonna throw a size (or two) smaller Firebrand liner, and finish up with a pair of OR PL400 liner mitts. Surely that'll keep my hands warm!

Also, will wool base layers keep me from stinking so bad? On Rainier the Patagonia Capilene smelled like hell wouldn't have it after just the first day. God only knows how putrid the stench would be after over 20-some-odd days on Denali.

Danielneallewis wrote:Also, will wool base layers keep me from stinking so bad? On Rainier the Patagonia Capilene smelled like hell wouldn't have it after just the first day. God only knows how putrid the stench would be after over 20-some-odd days on Denali.

when i first got into winter camping/climbing i got wool baselayers. the claim is, they still insulate when wet and kill bacteria. in my experience, synthetics are better.

they dry much faster and (especially on a long trip like denali) youre gonna stink no matter what you bring. if youre venting with your zippers appropriately, synthetics will work great.

i rarely use my wools anymore.

Edit: i wore synthetics on the west butt and was happy with them

insulate ur ice ax,

wrap closed cell foam around ice axe where you will be holding it.

christoph benells wrote:insulate ur ice ax, wrap closed cell foam around ice axe where you will be holding it.

I had heard that, but I don't have any extra closed cell foam lying around, and I hate to ruin my sleeping pad. You think pipe insulation tape would work?

Danielneallewis wrote: I had heard that, but I don't have any extra closed cell foam lying around, and I hate to ruin my sleeping pad. You think pipe insulation tape would work?

pipe insulation is fine, thats what its meant for right?

thats what i used.

that's a lot of clothes. Do you really need multiples of puffies and shells? Take only what you truly need. Go light and climb fast.

on the summit, may 28th last season I wore:

ball cap, w/ 2 hoods up
sunglasses
bd guide glove
bd stance belay parka
marmot variant jacket
marmot windbreaker
shell pants
fleece farmer john
patagonia expedition weight full coverall baselayer
merino t shirt
TLT 5 boots with 40 below overboots
2 pair of socks
closed cell foam under ski boot liners

other clothing useful for the mountain-

light colors
buff
liner gloves
softshell pants
rain jacket (as light as possible, ex. marmot essence, pata alpine houdini)

took but didn't use:

expedition sized parka
expedition mitts
beanie cap
balaclava