Best trail runner for scrambling low 5th class rock

I was wondering if anyone had any recommendations for a trail running shoe that can scramble up to around 5.5 rock. I know lots of trail runners have some pretty good sticky rubber but it seems like fundamentally the toebox is different and usually poor for scrambling. Would love to hear people's experiences/ recommendations. Thanks in advance

La Sportiva Mutant. I wouldn't want to go more than 15 miles in them, but they're stellar for scrambly, quasi-running days.

Scarpa epic. I've used many approach shoes and trail runners these are hands down my favorite, I'm on my fourth pair! Not quite as capable as a tight approach shoe by they are sticky and make up for it by being super comfy for those epic days, which to me makes a huge difference. Size them pretty snug and they will relax a bit after some use.

Maybe the Patagonia Rover (if they still make them).

I can't remember where, but I saw a post about someone who resoled running shoes with sticky climbing rubber for exactly what you are talking about.

Thanks for the quick responses! Those all look like great options. I've considered sanding down the tread off the front of an old running shoe and re-soling with climbing rubber...

I use my Sportiva Helios for scrambling up to 5.6 and love them. Originally bought them for the light weight when clipping to a harness but scrambling has been good as well. They make a "sticky rubber" version now too that I haven't tried. Downside is that they aren't super durable.

JacobD wrote:Thanks for the quick responses! Those all look like great options. I've considered sanding down the tread off the front of an old running shoe and re-soling with climbing rubber...

I had a pair of Montrail Hardrocks resoled with dot rubber. I have yet to find anything that is cushy like a running shoe, but has the durability of an approach shoe especially if you're scrambling up cracks. My compromise is Vibram soled trail runners (currently using the Dynafit Pantera S and Lafuma Moon Race).

Two responses:

1. How you know you're getting old: when you recommend a product that's been long discontinued. Best shoe I ever had for this was the La Sportiva Exum Pro. RIP.

2. Five Ten Camp Four is OK. It's beefy and closer to a 'light hiker' than a trail runner but I've had good luck using it for run / scramble stuff. I only have the older (pre-2015) version.

Anything with Vibram MegaGrip and fitted snuggly will work. Honestly the stiffness of the shoe and the lug pattern and depth is going to make the most difference at that level

North Face over in Europe has the Verto Amp which is essentially an approach version of the MT. But it's GTX only...and EU only...but climbs amazingly.

Sportiva Boulder GTX. I have a pair.. The padding and lightness is close to my trail running shoes (nike Air Zoom wildhorse) but they climb way better

I definitely do not recommend Altra trail running shoes... They're great for hiking, but on tougher trails and scrambing, they suck.

Saucony Peregrines are okay. I still prefer my 5.10 Guides.

Check out Salewa. Different option depending on your comfort level with cusioning.

Sportiva Raptor is their version of a sticky trail runner. Arc'teryx acrux shoe has been impressively cushioned, while scrambling very well

Sportiva Helios SR.

Has anyone tried the new La Sportiva TX2 or TX3?

I'm on my 3rd pair of Salomon Speed Cross shoes. I wear them trail running and scrambling and also in slot canyons. They're super light and the tread is really grippy. I've climbed 5.5 in them no problem. Its an excellent shoe, especially if you don't require a lot of support. They dry out fast too.

Legs Magillicutty wrote:I'm on my 3rd pair of Salomon Speed Cross shoes. I wear them trail running and scrambling and also in slot canyons. They're super light and the tread is really grippy. I've climbed 5.5 in them no problem. Its an excellent shoe, especially if you don't require a lot of support. They dry out fast too.

The soles also wear out faster than any other shoe I have ever encountered.

MyFeetHurt wrote:Has anyone tried the new La Sportiva TX2 or TX3?

Yeah I have some TX2's. Running in those would be kinda like barefoot running since there is only a few millimeters of midsole in the forefoot, but there is way more drop than a barefoot shoe since it's a more normal heel. Also they aren't stiff, so not good for edging, great for smearing. I really want to go and do Snake Dike in them to see how they do on long hikes (cause the guide tennies kill it for that).

Legs Magillicutty wrote:I'm on my 3rd pair of Salomon Speed Cross shoes. I wear them trail running and scrambling and also in slot canyons. They're super light and the tread is really grippy. I've climbed 5.5 in them no problem. Its an excellent shoe, especially if you don't require a lot of support. They dry out fast too.

I'm actually really surprised by this. I've been wearing a pair of Speed Cross for winter trail running for two years. They're absolutely perfect for wet, muddy, rooty trails, but I imagine they'd be terrifying on rock. Due to the *very* widely spaced mud lugs, they have minimal rubber to rock contact, which is not exactly what I'm looking for in a scrambling shoe. They might be ok if you're primarily on choss or scree, but hit any slab or any talus, and I feel like you'd wind up on your head real fast. If you need to test this for yourself, try walking on even moderately slick pavement with them - even better if there is a layer of water on the pavement!

La Sportiva bushido have a "performance" fit so your foot shouldn't move around as much, the rubber should be decent and it's a trail runner. I think i tick all your requirements.