Climbing Shoes for Achilles Tendonitis

Hey Mountainproject,

I'm on the mend from some bad Achilles tendinitis/bursitis, and I've come to the realization that I need to basically start from square one with my climbing shoes: every pair of shoes I own have a high tension achilles slingshot, making them impossible to wear for more than a minute or two. I thought my pair of flat lasted shoes (evolv bandits) would be better, but they're actually one of the worst offenders.

Anyone have a recommendation for a pair of comfortable, decently well-performing climbing shoes to wear while I'm in the process of strengthening my Achilles? I bought a pair of shamans a half size up from what I would've worn before, and they seem like a good stepping stone, but they're still a bit much at this point. I used to own a pair of Galileo's that were the most comfortable shoes ever - are there any modern equivalents? It's pretty rare that I find a shoe with no dead space in the heel, and evolv/mad rock/some 5.10s are the only ones that I've ever had luck with (trying to make a pair of scarpas work was what started my problems).

I'm hoping to find something that works out of the box, as I've already ruined half of my current shoe supply trying to remove the slingshot rand. The only pair I can wear currently are an old pair of mad rock concept 2.0's that I successfully modified, but they have as much midsole support as a pair of socks so they only really work on overhangs where I don't have put as much weight onto my calves.

Thanks,
Matt

5.10 Moccasyms? If you size them to street size, or half a size below street size, then you'll get some really great stretch, and they won't feel like climbing shoes. That's just a guess, but these are the most comfortable shoes, once broken in, I've worn to date.

MattH wrote:Hey Mountainproject, I'm on the mend from some bad Achilles tendinitis/bursitis...trying to make a pair of scarpas work was what started my problems

Which Scarpa model was it & does you achille like it better w/ a shallower heel cup?

Scarpa techno X has very low tension on the heel. It's a stiffer flat platform, but the toe is pretty rounded. If you need a technical shoe for thin edging it is sub par, but comfy in hand cracks, smears well, and it will actually stand on thin holds with how stiff it is (it's just harder to find them than with a TC pro).

reboot wrote: Which Scarpa model was it & does you achille like it better w/ a shallower heel cup?

It was the mago. Basically every scarpa heel cup is a terrible fit for me, and of the aggressive shapes, all the others aside from the stix (the slip on version of the mago) were way too roomy in the big toe or too short in the 2nd toe. I like a very shallow heel cup with a fairly flat back profile (hence the good fit of the shamans). The techno x looks like the slingshot rand would be an issue, as would the one on the moccasym's. I'm a bit worried about how the moccasyms could possibly stay on my foot if it's not cinched down against my achilles. I'm wondering if the katana's would work - the genius's fit like a glove but they're a little softer than I'm hoping for, plus I'm looking to avoid dropping 200 on a pair of shoe that will probably feel too big in a month. My current frontrunners for a good fit are:
-LS Katana
-LS Nago's
-5.10 team
-5.10 stonelands
I've tried on several other pairs (too many to reasonably list) and other than the genius and shaman, I've not had any luck. I really wanted the forceX to work given their padded heel region, but their backs were just too stiff.

LaSportiva Mythos would be a good choice because the heel tension system on them comes from the laces wrapping around the heel of the shoe, allowing you to adjust the tension accross the achilles. Mythos Laces

MattH wrote: It was the mago. Basically every scarpa heel cup is a terrible fit for me, and of the aggressive shapes, all the others aside from the stix (the slip on version of the mago) were way too roomy in the big toe or too short in the 2nd toe.

I assumed you've tried the Instinct VS? It has a shallower (but not low volume) heel than anything else I've used in the Scarpa lineup, and a bit more symmetric toe profile than the likes of Mago, Boost(er/ic), Stix, etc.

LS Katana velcro or lace? The slingshot rand on either is much tighter than the techno x or mythos. Really the mythos has no slingshot, I don't think you can get more comfortable in terms of heel fit.

Moccasym and mythos
Also stretch the entire back of your leg including your glutes and do deep lunges to loosen your hips

I have shallow heels and narrow feet, found that women's models fit me better.
If you find that Evolv lasts match your feet reasonably well, see if you can find Evolv Rockstars in your size. Perhaps, not the level of performance that you a looking for, but since they are being discontinued can be had for not a whole lot of money

relevant ...

rannveigaamodt.com/bursitis…

a few years ago when recovering from a torn achilles

i started back with normal unaggressive shoes with easy heels like the 5.10 coyotes and climbx raves ... after a bit i moved back to katanas

generally the "cheaper, beginner" shoes have a less deep heel ... you simply need to try on a whole bunch

;)