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Chicken

Original Post
Luke.d6 · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Nov 2015 · Points: 15

I tend to chicken wing on most holds. What can I do to train to avoid it other than practice turning my elbows in. Are there certain muscles I need to strengthen.

I am asking because I have had issues with my shoulders recently. Even prior to climbing if I rotated my arms in big circles I would get snaps/pops. But now that I am bouldering more I had one arm really start to throb after climbing and continuing for a day or two after. So I rested and iced for about for days until it was gone, massaged my shoulder with the arm aid went climbing and my shoulder was so sore the next day it blew me away. I would mostly call it muscle pain because it was the whole muscle that was sore for days after. For 24 hrs after it hurt to just lift above my head. Now I have gone through almost the exact same process with my right shoulder. Left one is still experiencing pain after climbing maybe not as severe but that may be because I have been looking after it a lot more with stretching and massaging.

The reason why I blame this all on the chicken winging is because of a YouTube video done by a physio therapist saying that chicken winging can cause problems with you shoulder.

Any help is appreciated!
Thank you!

Steven Lee · · El Segundo, CA · Joined Mar 2014 · Points: 385

I've dealt with various issues myself. If you can, see a physical therapist.

In the mean time, take a break from climbing. I know it's hard... but your body is telling you it needs to recover. I kept on pushing my elbows with tendonitis and ended up needing 6 months off climbing. I figured during climbing it felt fine, but after a session it would hurt like a mofo. I should have just stopped climbing earlier (or toned down the volume/intensity). Eccentric strengthening exercises worked for me.

Work on shoulder mobility exercises and rotator cuff strengthening in the mean time, but really a sports PT should be able to guide you.

Then, when you get back on it, climb in proper form to avoid chicken winging. Work on making moves where your body weight is balanced under your arms, rest on extended arms, etc. This likely means going down a grade or two (or three) since you've relied on it too much.

Also... some of us weren't made to handle a lot of bouldering. Maybe it's time to switch it up to some rope

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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