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Best guide book for Cham and Mont Blanc?

Original Post
seth0687 · · Fort Collins · Joined Nov 2007 · Points: 375

Looking to head to Chamonix this year or next with the wife and do some climbing. Are there any recommended guide books for routes in Cham and/or specific guide books for Mont Blanc. If I climb Mont Blanc, I'd prefer the Trois Monts route and specific information on that route.

Any help or input would be much appreciated.

Cheers,

Seth

brenta · · Boulder, CO · Joined Feb 2006 · Points: 75

François Damilano has written "neige, glace et mixte," which is a two-volume guide to the entire massif covering over 1000 snow, ice, and mixed routes. He also authored "Mont Blanc 4808m 5 voies pour la sommet," which is specifically on climbing Mont Blanc by the classic routes. Both works have been translated in English. I have the "neige..." volumes and I'd recommend them, but I'm not familiar with "5 voies".

Graham Johnson · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Apr 2006 · Points: 0

Those are out of print in the english translation. Still available in french though. Rumour has it there is a new edition in the works but none of the bookstores/gear shops in Cham (I was there 3 months ago) could tell me when it was expected. Try to get a used copy before you go. Depending on what you want to do, there is a "selected best of Cham..." in english that has a number of moderate routes in it (nothing harder than TD- I don't think). here it is: amazon.co.uk/gp/product/189…

Patrick Corry · · PA · Joined Nov 2015 · Points: 75

I'll probably get hammered for this, but, get yourself a copy of Rebuffat's "The 100 Finest Routes of the Mont Blanc Massif". I know that lots of the info is outdated...equipment, hardware, etc. but you cannot find a better and more enjoyable way to become familiar with the range than through this book. I've been there twice, and I felt like I knew my way around after many pleasant evenings studying this book! Far more than a guidebook, it is a long love letter to alpinism and the Mont Blanc range.

Patrick Corry · · PA · Joined Nov 2015 · Points: 75
ebay.com/itm/The-Mont-Blanc…

This is it.... look around the internet, you may find it cheaper.
pierref · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jun 2015 · Points: 0
Patrick Corry wrote:I'll probably get hammered for this, but, get yourself a copy of Rebuffat's "The 100 Finest Routes of the Mont Blanc Massif". I know that lots of the info is outdated...equipment, hardware, etc. but you cannot find a better and more enjoyable way to become familiar with the range than through this book. I've been there twice, and I felt like I knew my way around after many pleasant evenings studying this book! Far more than a guidebook, it is a long love letter to alpinism and the Mont Blanc range.
That's a great suggestion, i'have started with this book 30 years ago. For rock climbing, Michel Piola guide books (envers des aiguilles and aiguilles rouges) are available in english
montagne-librairie.com/epag…
montagne-librairie.com/epag…
Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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