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Best 5.10 Shoe for Multipitch?

Original Post
ChossKing King · · Boulder, CO · Joined Apr 2014 · Points: 0

Looking to pick up a new pair of shoes. Which pair of 5.10 shoes do you feel would be best for multipitch and why?

rock-fencer · · Columbia, SC · Joined Dec 2009 · Points: 265

ive actually been very happy with my newtons. slightly padded with a thick supportive but overall once broken in perform extremely well.

Trevor · · La Grande, OR · Joined Apr 2012 · Points: 830

I've got a pair of Mocs I can easily wear all day. And if for some reason they do start hurting my feet, they're super easy to take off.

Ted Pinson · · Chicago, IL · Joined Jul 2014 · Points: 252

Eh, trouble with Moccs is they're really soft, so if you're doing a lot of edging, you'll tire out really quick. If it's friction slab or cracks, then yeah...otherwise, I'd probably grab a pair of the pinks. Anasazi lace or Velcro.

Muscrat · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Oct 2011 · Points: 3,625

First question is why only 5/10?
I climb in a quiver of shoes, just lucky. For all day comfort, the TC pro.
I love the mocs, IF, i am not edging a lot. They are so soft, they smear the edges, they just don't edge worth anything.
Oh, for the old 5/10 Asym. Great all day edging crack shoe.
Probably the best for all day grade III/IV walls in a five ten, the anasazi lace. The vcs needs to be, IMO, sized tight to be the machine that it is. I down size the VCS 2+ sizes from the street shoe, a single pitch shoe.

FrankPS · · Atascadero, CA · Joined Nov 2009 · Points: 276

I think it depends on what kind of climbing you will be doing. Crack? Slab? Edging? I think, in general, a stiffer soled shoe is more comfortable for longer days.

For me, that's a TC Pro, which is La Sportiva, not Five Ten.

ChossKing King · · Boulder, CO · Joined Apr 2014 · Points: 0
Muscrat wrote:First question is why only 5/10?
I've got a good deal on 5.10s. Also I've been climbing a lot in Sportiva and would like to try out more of FiveTen. I'll be mainly using the shoes for crack and slab but would like a stiffer sole than the Mocs. Sounds like the pinks are the way to go?
christoph benells · · tahoma · Joined Nov 2014 · Points: 306

i love my stonelands slipper, its a stiffer soled moc

but they dont make them anymore.

Anonymous · · Unknown Hometown · Joined unknown · Points: 0

grandstone's

K R · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jan 2009 · Points: 81

All depends on you.

I've loved my old model Rogues for just about everything.

Ted Pinson · · Chicago, IL · Joined Jul 2014 · Points: 252

Choss, I'd say go for the pinks.

T Howes · · Bend, OR · Joined Dec 2010 · Points: 20

I've owned 10+ pairs of fiveten, my moccs were my multipitch/all day shoe because they were the most comfortable shoe I owned. I have a wide foot and always thought fiveten fit me the best. I came around and eventually bought some TC Pros and I've barely touched another pair of shoes the past few years.

Arin F · · Las Vegas · Joined Oct 2011 · Points: 64

Definitely the pinks! I bought them in my street shoe size. Break in period was long but in the end, I have an awesome shoe that I can wear some thin socks with ass well. I love my Grandstone's but they don't make them anymore.

Paul Ross · · Keswick, Cumbria · Joined Apr 2001 · Points: 22,316

Mythos always

Muscrat · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Oct 2011 · Points: 3,625
USBRIT wrote:Mythos always
New shoe? The five ten mythos?
Anonymous · · Unknown Hometown · Joined unknown · Points: 0

If you can find an old pair of Anasazi before they changed them they are great. I can't climb in the new style for more than an hour without my feet killing me, but who knows your feet may like them.

It comes down to finding a shoe that is comfortable for you, everyone is different.

Just don't do like my friend and climb snake dike in really aggressive bouldering shoes... bad idea!

ChrisN · · Morro Bay, CA · Joined Oct 2014 · Points: 25

I love my pinks, I bought them specifIcally for trad climbing. I think 5.10 just came out with a new version?

Paul Ross · · Keswick, Cumbria · Joined Apr 2001 · Points: 22,316
Muscrat wrote: New shoe? The five ten mythos?
I guess the old model..
that guy named seb · · Britland · Joined Oct 2015 · Points: 236

I think the whites were used on the dawn wall but i think just about any five ten shoe would be fine for multi pitch it really just depends how you size them (apart from these fiveten.com/us/climbing/agg…). This also of course all depends on where you will be climbing and what type of climbing you will be doing, remember Dean Potter did allot of his soloing in moccasins (cant thing of any time worse for your heel pull out of the shoe or to get foot cramp). I would go for the stonelands if i was climbing on granite though.

Ted Pinson · · Chicago, IL · Joined Jul 2014 · Points: 252

Didn't they both use TC Pros?

Sean Burke · · Concord, CA · Joined Jul 2014 · Points: 75

Moccs, Sportiva's and surprisingly the Evolve Shamans. They are super sticky, edge like crazy and jam like strawberries.

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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