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DWF 3
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Dec 9, 2015
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Boulder, CO
· Joined Nov 2012
· Points: 186
Came across this the other day: Obviously, the list is missing a few key items like food and water storage and doesn't get down to the details of clothes and what not, but parts of this list blow my mind! Certain aspects I can grasp like 1 sleeping bag for the two of them and a 60m lead line with an 80m tag (full 70m raps with lightest weight possible) but 1 ice tool for the pair?!?! To me (not being a badass alpinist) that would be like bringing one crampon each. Or how bout a single ice screw? Better not be extended sections of ice with your one tool no less. Just blows my mind what animals these guys are. Anyway, curious as to what you folks think.
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luke smith
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Dec 9, 2015
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Salt Lake City, Utah
· Joined Feb 2012
· Points: 121
I wasn't there but the Fitz massif generally has less ice/snow than the Torre's, enough that on their attempt of the Torre Traverse in a day Honnold and Haley had a pair of ice tools and pair of tool/axe hybrids. The single tool on the Fitz traverse I believe was mainly for cleaning cracks, although I could be wrong. Still doesn't negate the bad-assness of their traverse or Alex and Colin's attempt. I think the ascender list is more interesting and I use BD ascenders.
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Ryan Huetter
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Dec 9, 2015
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Mammoth Lakes, CA
· Joined Apr 2006
· Points: 395
Seems reasonable enough. Moderate ice/mixed wierdness from the top of the North Pillar to the Summit, and then an easy, though bullet hard traverse across la Brecha once finished with the rappels down the Franco-Argentine Route. I am definitely not a badass, though climbed it with one short axe each and a pair of aluminum crampons each and 1 screw for a running belay across la Brecha. From there on it is mostly ridge climbing on rock with much less snow and ice.
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DWF 3
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Dec 10, 2015
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Boulder, CO
· Joined Nov 2012
· Points: 186
luke smith wrote:I wasn't there but the Fitz massif generally has less ice/snow than the Torre's, enough that on their attempt of the Torre Traverse in a day Honnold and Haley had a pair of ice tools and pair of tool/axe hybrids. The single tool on the Fitz traverse I believe was mainly for cleaning cracks, although I could be wrong. Still doesn't negate the bad-assness of their traverse or Alex and Colin's attempt. I think the ascender list is more interesting and I use BD ascenders. I've never been down there but I just assumed there would be a significant amount of ice. In "A Line Across the Sky" it does show that they were clearing a lot of cracks of ice but the crux of the route it seemed was the crazy running waterfall Tommy started leading before dark. I remember Honnold mentioning he was getting so pumped because he was using the ice tool holes as monos. Crazy. I assume the ascenders were primarily for all the simul-climbing.
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Ryan Marsters
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Dec 10, 2015
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Golden, CO
· Joined Jan 2011
· Points: 1,436
Why a 9.8mm lead line instead of something lighter? Durability concerns?
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Mikey Schaefer
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Dec 10, 2015
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Reno, NV
· Joined Jun 2014
· Points: 233
Other teams that have tried it have been turned back after their lead line was completely destroyed from climbing just the first 3 peaks. The rock can be extremely abrasive down there. So the 9.8mm rope makes perfect sense.
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Mark Kadlec
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Jun 3, 2016
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Salt Lake City, UT
· Joined Aug 2011
· Points: 60
@Ryan Marsters, Mikey is right, in fact I saw the video and looks like they only had a piece of rope left for the last peak! The only strange thing I see is 1 sleeping bag, makes sense from a heat perspective, but those guys definitely are ok with sleeping really tight! :)
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that guy named seb
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Jun 4, 2016
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Britland
· Joined Oct 2015
· Points: 236
The list is no where near compete as far as cams, if you have the movie you can see they have waaaaaaaay more than 3 cams.
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DWF 3
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Jun 4, 2016
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Boulder, CO
· Joined Nov 2012
· Points: 186
that guy named seb wrote:The list is no where near compete as far as cams, if you have the movie you can see they have waaaaaaaay more than 3 cams. The list says doubles to #2. And a single #3.
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