So I have a mild pain at my A5 pulley on both my middle and ring finger on my left hand. The pain only occurs when I apply light pressure to that area. When I press firmly or crimp on the hand I feel no pain or loss of strength in the fingers. I could find very little information about A5 pulley injuries, as it seems they seldom get injured. Anyone have any experience with this certain pulley injury?
I can't offer much help but I did something similar around Thanksgiving. My right middle finger around the A5 or C3 pulley on the medial side a doctor friend diagnosed without an x-ray or MRI. I was in the gym working on some crimpy stuff and felt a pain and slowly saw my finger swell and turn a little black and blue.
I can only give you my experience and I hope someone pipes in with more info. My finger hurt and was swollen for about a week. The pain left and it would only hurt if I tried to use it to open a door or grab anything. I've had full range and my finger hasn't hurt for a couple weeks (no climbing)until a couple days ago when I taped my finger superior and inferior of that knuckle and tried a 5.9 outside. Well, my finger still hurts from that and I've decided that I'm going to completely stay off it for another 4 weeks and slowly start to use it again. Like squeezing silly putty or something very low strain for a few weeks. and then slowly do more. From everything I've read, it sounds like it is going to be really hard to not overdo it because as soon as you overdo it, you start the healing process over again.
One doctor told me 6 weeks and another said it sometimes takes 6 months. But they were talking about pulley ligaments in general and not necessarily the one(s?) I messed up.
It's ONLY when bouldering towards my limit. Not sure if A5 or C3 but my guess is rather C3.
Fingers affected are index, middle, ring. The pain is local to the outside/side of the finger where the arrow points to. It goes away w/in ~10 seconds of letting go of the grip.
Happened a few times now stopped every time, always at the same place. Usually came with crimping or holding onto a sloper and pulling down hard to move upwards (i.e. not just bodyweight).
Been super careful so no lingering pain or swelling etc afterwards.
My thought is to start finger boarding slowly to help target my fingers for strength gains as this is apparently where my weakness is now.