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TR crag recommendations within 2hrs of Wrightwood, CA

Original Post
matvey · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Apr 2014 · Points: 55

Wrightwood is between LA & San Bernadino, and a bit north of the two.

I'm looking for something within ~2-hour driving distance; a spot where it's easy to approach the top of a route and set up TR anchors (or use existing anchors), and the routes are in the 5.8-5.11 range. The route guide here is helpful as far as finding the different places, but rarely mentions anything about setting up top rope (or am I just not seeing something?)

We've been to JTree before, and plan on going there again this time too, but would love to try something else.

lozo bozo · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Feb 2015 · Points: 30

have you been here?

mountainproject.com/v/top-r…

matvey · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Apr 2014 · Points: 55

Thanks! Yep, I just saw that one. That + the Ortega Falls in Santa Ana Mountains might be all we need, although I'm definitely open to more suggestions!

Jan Tarculas · · San Diego, Ca · Joined Mar 2010 · Points: 937

Planets of the apes wall in Malibu Creek
mountainproject.com/v/plane…

though I've never been and I'm so close to it...
Mount Rubidoux
mountainproject.com/v/mount…
-Just click on "Best climbs for YOU in this area" and pick Top Rope climbs

matt c. · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Nov 2009 · Points: 155

box springs in riverside. Most of the bolt anchors are accessible from the top. But to be honest it might not be worth the drive unless you have a bunch of beginners.
mountainproject.com/v/box-s…

Guy Keesee · · Moorpark, CA · Joined Mar 2008 · Points: 349

Stoney Point is the place you otta be.......

And the Devils Punch Bowl has some TR stuff. I only know of the things downhill....thats due North from the parking lot.

And Texas Canyon....

but one day you will need to lead. That will open up your options quite a bit.

Do you do the Tunnels?

matvey · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Apr 2014 · Points: 55

Tunnels?

Yea, my wife and I are probably get into lead soon, but will probably want to get some gym experience first before doing it outdoors.

Joy likes trad · · Southern California · Joined Jul 2012 · Points: 71
Joy likes trad · · Southern California · Joined Jul 2012 · Points: 71
matvey wrote:Tunnels? Yea, my wife and I are probably get into lead soon, but will probably want to get some gym experience first before doing it outdoors.
http://www.mountainproject.com/v/malibu-tunnel-boulders/110778427
Guy Keesee · · Moorpark, CA · Joined Mar 2008 · Points: 349

Hi..... The Tunnels ...... West of Wrightwood, .5 miles west of Islip Saddle.

Joy likes trad · · Southern California · Joined Jul 2012 · Points: 71
Locker wrote:...Devils Punchbowl...
yeah I guess since you're so close the DP is ok. It's really quite chossy though.
Guy Keesee · · Moorpark, CA · Joined Mar 2008 · Points: 349

I forgot this one.

mountainproject.com/v/sprin…

Very stout TR's ..... be sure to clip one of the bolts at 1/2 height so you don't crater. If you go there it will be quite obvious what you need to do.

Info for the Tunnels...

mountainproject.com/v/tunne…

IMHO, this is some pretty good top roping...at the Punchbowl

mountainproject.com/v/goril…

jellybean · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Feb 2013 · Points: 0

The Apple Valley crags are closer than New Jack and have tons of climbing in the range. Only easy top rope I can think of is "Circus 10c", it is a great climb with no approach, I'm sure there are others,but couldn't name them off hand. Wrightwood is a great place to live for so-cal climbing but you've got to learn to get a rope up.
J-

Joy likes trad · · Southern California · Joined Jul 2012 · Points: 71
Guy Keesee wrote:...IMHO, this is some pretty good top roping...at the Punchbowl...
Gorilla and Attitude are the exceptions at the Punchbowl. Both are very good. But both are also kind of hardman areas.
Guy Keesee · · Moorpark, CA · Joined Mar 2008 · Points: 349

Hi, Jeremy...... I thought the OP was "and the routes are in the 5.8-5.11 range."

Gorilla wall is that to a T...... I don't recall being able to get to anchors on Attitude Wall.... its scary walking around on the top of those formations.

One of the biggest whippers I have ever whipped was on "Best Seller" ..... IIRC... I fell while clipping the 5th? bolt...... watched the deck coming at me at an alarming rate!!! Felt the whole acceleration thing.
That climb had me spooked for years, if I could have worked it on TR I would have.

(Just a random thought... after looking up the Attitude Wall on MP, I do wonder how people use MP..... about 1/2 of the climbs on that wall are not listed... so if you start out going left to right, for example, you will be all screwed up because several of the roots do not exist!)

anyway- carry on matvey, have fun climbing, wherever you go.

jellybean · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Feb 2013 · Points: 0

Guy, I second the gorilla suggestion. Two good 11a's that share an easily reached anchor. Best Seller can be top roped by rappel, as can Stop the Press. Both have rap anchors directly above them, gaining the top of the formation can be done from either side (little sketchy). The fall after protecting the crux is/should be big. Great routes, especially from the comfort of a top-rope.
J-

Joy likes trad · · Southern California · Joined Jul 2012 · Points: 71
Guy Keesee wrote:Hi, Jeremy...... I thought the OP was "and the routes are in the 5.8-5.11 range." ...
True enough. I was just noding that there is good climbing to be had at the PB. I use "The Guide" (The orange one with the big draw on the cover) for the PB not MP. It also has several of the other places mentioned in this thread. Not sure if its worth it but I think you can still get copies from Troy or the other guy. I saw him on here at one point. I guess he haed a bunch printed right before the Wilie closure so there are out there if a suitable guide cannaot be found. Note that there are new climbs on the Attitude wall since "The Guide" was published even though as far as I know the PB is closed to new development.
Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Southern California
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