Does a 6 c4 or an old 5 fit in Half Moon Crack on Cannon?

Just wondering.

A 6 might (don't know for sure). Ya know. If you're chicken.

Also note: I am super chicken. I've backed off it twice, slide-thrutching down from halfway up the crack.

I can't speak from personal experience but looking at the description and comments here on MP ( mountainproject.com/v/verti… ) it sounds like a 6 would not help much if at all

There is a placement at the very bottom of the pitch, but after 10 feet you get into the business and it is useless.

No. It takes regular gear in the back of the crack until about 1/4-1/3 of the way up. After that, you run it out. The only options if you really want gear are Valley Giants and Big Bros.

shoo wrote:A 6 might (don't know for sure). Ya know. If you're chicken.

HAHA excellent.

Thanks all.

I carried a #6 C4 all the way up there only to find that it would just touch each side of the crack, but not cam one iota.

Made it up anyway, but next time I brought a #4 Big Bro.

acrophobe wrote:I carried a #6 C4 all the way up there only to find that it would just touch each side of the crack, but not cam one iota. Made it up anyway, but next time I brought a #4 Big Bro.

Did you actually place a #4BB? The minimum range is equal to the maximum size of the C4#6.

Well, there's a route for my todo list. Looks superb. I could use a good pucker.

Rocknice2-

Yes I placed the #4 Big Bro, and was very glad to have it. However, not being very experienced with it, I was still highly motivated not to fall.

Where did you place it? Were you able to get it at the top of the crack, near the crux exit moves.

From what I remember it was pretty chill until you needed to exit. My last gear was a medium Camelot, 15' below me. Shoved in deep behind the flake that forms the wide crack.

Rocknice2,

I had the same piece you describe as your last cam. Then I placed the Big Bro halfway up the Half Moon section.

I think I was able to reach up prior to exiting the wide part, and fiddle in something small (RP? Ball Nut?). But, it has been about 10 years since the last time I was on it. That recollection is fuzzy, possibly wrong.

My off-width phobic second laybacked the whole thing. Can't imagine doing that on lead.

Yeah I remember a crappy small nut at the exit move. Also remember it wasn't worth it's weight in aluminum. A mediocre aid piece at best.

acrophobe wrote:I carried a #6 C4 all the way up there only to find that it would just touch each side of the crack, but not cam one iota. Made it up anyway, but next time I brought a #4 Big Bro.

There you go Zac, there's your answer, now mod the #6 (attach some shit to one side that can't come off) and there you have it a #6+, perfect for Half Moon Crack.

Maybe a 2x4?

I can't fit in the crack. I was following and couldn't even reach the gear the leader had placed in the back of the crack. I ended up laybacking. It is much better than OW'ing it if you are large of chest, but would be super scary to lead that way though. That said if you can fit inside it looks chill.

splitting hairs perhaps but I think for most people it is not really an offwidth but a squeeze chimney.

Eric Chabot wrote:I think for most people it is not really an offwidth but a squeeze chimney.

I know you qualified it by saying "splitting hairs", but I have to disagree for the sake of those who haven't been on it. Chimney strongly implies your whole body is in the crack; for all but the tiniest people this won't be true on half moon.

The best I can say for Half Moon is that is actually pretty soft and casual if you've climbed real offwidth before. If you haven't, it'll feel like 5.10X.

Looks like squeeze chimney to me.