Broken Rope Fall in Gym

Last night in my Gym, I saw a climber fall from the anchors when his rope broke. He sustained serious injuries, including open fractures on both ankles.

He was leading on his own rope. According to his belayer, the climber had been away from climbing for about 4 years, and the rope had been in a rope bag in the climbers trunk for this entire time.

The rope broke about 2 feet above the knot as soon as the climber weighted it, after clipping the anchors.

The break appeared very clean, with only about 1 inch of fray on both ends.

The shuts and all draws on the climb were inspected immediately after the fall and none were found to have any sharp edges or visible wear.

Damn lucky he is alive... About how high was the fall? What city? Rope in the trunk for 4 years here in Texas one summer might melt the nylon! Got to take care of your rope, I would leave my kids in the car longer than I would my ropes...

I believe this is a picture of where it happened...

imgur.com/zXFYxjz

reddit.com/r/climbing/comme…

Hope you're doing alright Joe... witnessing that type of stuff can def a shake a person.

Send the rope in

Ropes dont just "break" ... Every documented example of one in good condition "breaking" has been of it getting cut or chemical contamination

If it really is the rope in good condition "breaking" without either the above then itll be a documented first

If it broke just as he sat down on it (not even a fall) my money is on chemicals ...

A rope just doesnt break under body weight by itself

^^^ I hope they send the rope in to have it looked at... would be good to know what actually happened. This gym probably won't be allowing people to use their own shoes and chalk bag now... much less a trusty rope from the spare tire compartment of your trunk. Unfortunate.

bearbreeder wrote:Send the rope in Ropes dont just "break" ... Every documented example of one in good condition "breaking" has been of it getting cut or chemical contamination If it really is the rope in good condition "breaking" without either the above then itll be a documented first If it broke just as he sat down on it (not even a fall) my money is on chemicals ... A rope just doesnt break under body weight by itself

Yep, chemical exposure is really the only possible explanation for this failure. Hopefully they can get the rope sent to a lab for testing.

I can't believe the gym allows outside ropes. My gym is impossible to even climb on ropes unless you are very skilled and experienced. Was joking with a friend the other day, after spending weeks outside and teaching him safe climbing practices I said, "you're finally gym ready!"

bearbreeder wrote:Send the rope in Ropes dont just "break" ... Every documented example of one in good condition "breaking" has been of it getting cut or chemical contamination If it really is the rope in good condition "breaking" without either the above then itll be a documented first If it broke just as he sat down on it (not even a fall) my money is on chemicals ... A rope just doesnt break under body weight by itself

I agree.
Even a manky old clothes line will probably hold body weight unless it's been damaged by something (or just rotted in the sun)

JoeGaribay wrote:I can't believe the gym allows outside ropes.

It kind of surprises me too, but I know Planet Granite (and other gyms, too) doesn't provide lead ropes and makes you use your own rope. Given the unknown nature of a customer's rope, and the liability involved I'm surprised this is policy.

JoeGaribay wrote:I can't believe the gym allows outside ropes. My gym is impossible to even climb on ropes unless you are very skilled and experienced. Was joking with a friend the other day, after spending weeks outside and teaching him safe climbing practices I said, "you're finally gym ready!"

What's the difference between a personal rope and a personal harness? I've never been to a gym that didn't allow you to use a personal harness, and I'm glad that that's the case because I certainly don't want to be stuck using the uncomfortable and nasty harnesses that most gyms provide. I don't see how a gym could ever be held liable for a failure of someone's personal equipment unless that failure was directly caused by something in the gym (like a sharp carabiner).

JoeGaribay wrote:I can't believe the gym allows outside ropes. My gym is impossible to even climb on ropes unless you are very skilled and experienced. Was joking with a friend the other day, after spending weeks outside and teaching him safe climbing practices I said, "you're finally gym ready!"

Do they wipe your nose for you too, when you have the sniffles?

For a similar incident where a rope "broke" in the gym here is a report prepared by BD back in 2006

people.dbmi.columbia.edu/~d…

To be blunt even a coreshot rope would likely hold body weight .. If the sheath was intact and the rope has no obvious odd spots ... Then its likely chemical contamination

Of course its always possible that this might be the first documented case of a rope in good condition breaking without chemicals ... So send the rope in !!!

Mark E Dixon wrote: Do they wipe your nose for you too, when you have the sniffles?

Just my nose? No way, I won't join a gym that doesn't wipe after EVERY mess I make. Also, to the above poster, I find gyms that don't let you use your own equipment to be irritating nanny factories; no thanks.

I want to find a gym that'll cut me off after I've had one too many laps. Being tired on the ride home is just as dangerous as being drunk IMO

This is obviously very sad but also really, really, avoidable.

Joe Pringle wrote: the climber had been away from climbing for about 4 years, and the rope had been in a rope bag in the climbers trunk for this entire time.

A rope sitting in a trunk for 4 years? That screams red flag to me.

There is no chance I would use a rope that hadn't been used in that long without a close and proper inspection and almost no way I would use it stored in those conditions even with an inspection. If the story holds true that it broke under body weight it was definitely chemical damage. As someone else mentioned, a four year old clothesline will hold body weight without chemical damage.

Shelton Hatfield wrote:I want to find a gym that'll cut me off after I've had one too many laps. Being tired on the ride home is just as dangerous as being drunk IMO

Agreed. I also want to find a gym where the grades are super soft so that my ego doesn't get bruised. It's very painful.

Nick Sweeney wrote: Agreed. I also want to find a gym where the grades are super soft so that my ego doesn't get bruised. It's very painful.

Ha. Try MetroROCK in Vermont. I can lead 12d there while I gasp up 12a outside!

JoeGaribay wrote:Did it sound like I was complaining, Mark? Bit of a stretch to insult someone.

Pretty sure I was insulting the gym you referenced, not you. It's not like you make their idiotic policies. Unless you are the manager?

10-4 Mark. Read that wrong. I'd quote you but I'm on a phone. I don't work for a gym. I actually rarely go to one unless I want a quick boulder session.

JoeGaribay wrote:I can't believe the gym allows outside ropes. My gym is impossible to even climb on ropes unless you are very skilled and experienced. Was joking with a friend the other day, after spending weeks outside and teaching him safe climbing practices I said, "you're finally gym ready!"

I would much rather lead on my own rope than on a gym rope. I know where my rope has been…

I would imagine the liability to be higher if they provide the rope. How is the gym responsible for failure of your personal equipment?

Edited to correct typo from dictation. Thanks to csproul for pointing out the error.