Am I using my Petzl Basic wrong?
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All the threads lately got me curious about solo top rope and I thought I'd give it a shot. I couldn't find a micro traction locally so I picked up a Microscender and a Basic. The Microscender is sweet, I'm really impressed with it, but I can't figure out the best way to use the Basic. Looks good, until I weighted it. Then it looked like this. I didn't like how the carabiner swings under the ascender, and I especially don't like that it hits the black plastic handle that opens the ascender at the same time as it is basically pulling the rope away from of the groove that it sits in. So I tried it a different way, with a bungee cord chest harness, and carabiner attached to the bottom of the ascender. This seemed much better to me. It eliminates my above concerns, and the chest harness keeps slack out of the system. I used 5' of bungee cord. I didn't want it on the back of my neck so I put it over my shoulders and clip it to the back of my harness. It looks kind of like suspenders. Except that it's exactly what the manufacturer tells you NOT to do with an ascender. I recognize that the probability of it failing in either configuration seems pretty low, but I would like to have more confidence in this piece and my ability to safely use it. This is a rare incidence when my own risk assessment is directly opposite of the manufacturers recommendations. So what do you guys think? -either way is fine? -attach to the top? -attach to the bottom? -??? -take it back and get a microtrax? -make a friend solo toprope is lame? |
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Pretty sure it's backwards in the first photo, you should have the biner in the bottom hole like your second photo. Also the new version of the basic isn't recommended for tr solo because it doesn't lock the rope in like the old version did Edit: found this guess i was wrong mountainproject.com/v/10652… |
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Using the carabiner through the top hole helps secure the rope in the basic, and should help keep it from becoming separated from the older type ascender, as one plus. Not so much with the new design. |
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Top hole to chest harness (or equivalent), bottom hole to harness is exactly what's illustrated in the Petzl manual for my Basic Ascender. But the comment above is spot on: the new model of the Basic is not "approved" by Petzl for TR self belay due to the redesign of the upper hole. I have one of the earlier models which IS OK'ed for self belay if you want it. |
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Good info here. I appreciate everybody's help. However after digging a little deeper I found this, which indicates the new Basic isn't acceptable. I feel dumb for not catching that earlier, but hopefully this helps clear things up for others so they don't make the same mistake. Also, Big Feet's suggestion to use a quick link for the Microscender seems like good advice. Taking that one step further, I could actually girth hitch the device and also girth hitch the other end of the loop to my harness and not have any metal pieces to potentially cross load. The cool thing about the Microscender is that you don't even have to remove it from the rope when you switch to rappel. You can leave it attached and it becomes a backup to your rappel device. Lastly, I totally agree about practicing the system before really climbing on it. That's why I'm playing with these devices 2 feet off the ground in my garage. My original intention was mostly to practice switching over to a rappel, but I found that after a few test runs, I had all these other questions. |
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Chris Nebel wrote:All the threads lately got me curious about solo top rope and I thought I'd give it a shot. I couldn't find a micro traction locally so I picked up a Microscender and a Basic. The Microscender is sweet, I'm really impressed with it, but I can't figure out the best way to use the Basic. I started with a configuration right out of Petzl's solo toprope guide. Looks good, until I weighted it. Then it looked like this. I didn't like how the carabiner swings under the ascender, and I especially don't like that it hits the black plastic handle that opens the ascender at the same time as it is basically pulling the rope away from of the groove that it sits in. So I tried it a different way, with a bungee cord chest harness, and carabiner attached to the bottom of the ascender. This seemed much better to me. It eliminates my above concerns, and the chest harness keeps slack out of the system. I used 5' of bungee cord. I didn't want it on the back of my neck so I put it over my shoulders and clip it to the back of my harness. It looks kind of like suspenders. Except that it's exactly what the manufacturer tells you NOT to do with an ascender. I recognize that the probability of it failing in either configuration seems pretty low, but I would like to have more confidence in this piece and my ability to safely use it. This is a rare incidence when my own risk assessment is directly opposite of the manufacturers recommendations. So what do you guys think? -either way is fine? -attach to the top? -attach to the bottom? -??? -take it back and get a microtrax? -make a friend solo toprope is lame?The last image you provided is what cavers typically do when ascending fixed lines, although they usually use the Petzl Coroll. The reason why Petzl says not to do that is they assume you are not using an upper body harness or straps of sorts, and so if you were trying to use that method without an upper, well, try it and you will see in an instant why it's a problem. However, it's acceptable with a upper body sling or harness to hold it with the old Basic. I have not used the new one, however, and therefore cannot really comment on it's suitability other than the harness setup you have indicated in the photo is standard in caving. |
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Reviving this from the dead, having been messing around with the new Basic and Croll for rope soloing- |