Shoulder training post dislocation

Hey guys, I recently dislocated my shoulder 3 weeks ago for the second-ish time (first was a partial) and am trying to get back into climbing with the goal of NOT having that shit happen again.

Been doing a lot of PT and small muscle rehab in the shoulder. I'm guessing there's a lot of people on here who've experienced what I have and I wanna know what type of climbing you find lessens the chance of dislocation? i.e. pulling big jugs versus crimps. Seems like mantling might be the worst? Looking forward to some feedback

Thanks!

Hey there,

I had a different shoulder injury in which I tore the rotator cuff in a few places, then did it again after too short a break (sounds like your deal maybe?) Doc took a look at imaging and said nothing was torn too bad but that I should stay off it - NO CLIMBING, total rest. Of course that sucked, but I took the required break (about a month) and worked the shoulder back slowly into shape using "therabands." Google them - most rehabs use them as a major tool in strength-building after an injury. The Doc pointed me to a solid workout online that is specifically for rehabbing climbing/shoulder tears. Just 4 different exercises, done nowhere near your max level of pulling. 20 mins max. I started with the lighter resistance and moved up over a few weeks. If after a few weeks it's feeling good, some light climbing is a good way to see where you are at. Just go a little farther, see how it is and don't climb at your limit or push the workouts too long. Over time, it absolutely worked and my shoulder is now full strength and I rarely feel it. Course I'm 41 so your mileage may vary. Bodies heal at different rates. One positive spin to put on it is that your can take the opportunity to focus on abs, balance or flexibility exercises that skip the arms. I did a lot of core workouts while hurt and found my climbing may have actually improved a fraction as a result. Good luck!

Matthew Williams 1 wrote:The Doc pointed me to a solid workout online that is specifically for rehabbing climbing/shoulder tears. Just 4 different exercises, done nowhere near your max level of pulling. 20 mins max.

Hi Matt- any chance you could share a link to this workout. I've had some shoulder issues in the past year and have been looking for more specific exercises to do. Thanks

If you haven't done so already, it definitely helps to have an examination, especially with shoulder injuries. It's a complex piece of machinery and if nothing else, an examination will help you target your specific weaknesses. Maybe it's because I have no patience or the exercises are too boring, but it was hard for me to get through a general shoulder workout because there are so many exercises! It's been a lot easier and I've gained a lot more progress by targeting the problem muscles/movements to better scratch the itch, so to speak.

I've had subluxation issues in the past with my now-healthy shoulder and treatment seemed to revolve around antagonist/pushing exercises.

Oh, and +1 for thera-bands

I'm 6 weeks out after a shoulder dislocation, just started climbing again this past week. I cranked pt for the last four weeks and came back at almost the level I left. I've got a bunch of exercises I could give you, but they were for posterior stability as I had a posterior dislocation.

Did you have a posterior or anterior dislocation? How'd you bust yourself?

Hi Phil - yes, sorry should have thought to post the link. The four exercises are about half way down the page. You'll do three sets of each, and you can vary the strength according to what band you're using. A bit boring but it worked in my case - hope it helps:

ukclimbing.com/articles/pag…

Excellent, much appreciated!

I dislocated my should and have since had a labrum repair. Post injury I definitely preferred staying away from big moves to jugs, lockoffs and gastons. Straight forward crimping has never bothered my shoulders.

These types of injuries require rest followed by very light VERY LIGHT hi rep exercises. This is a go slow get strong type of rehab. Don't think about being well in less than 6 mo if there is a tear. Sacrifice a season save a lifestyle

djh860 wrote:These types of injuries require rest followed by very light VERY LIGHT hi rep exercises. This is a go slow get strong type of rehab. Don't think about being well in less than 6 mo if there is a tear. Sacrifice a season save a lifestyle

100% agree. Also, take your time and take PT seriously before trying to return. Also, I've never been able to consistently gym climb since without having my shoulder start feeling tweaky. I've had more success (not hurting myself) hangboarding, I guess because of the controlled nature of it.

Note: everything I say is anecdotal with a sample size of 1.

djh860 wrote:These types of injuries require rest followed by very light VERY LIGHT hi rep exercises. This is a go slow get strong type of rehab. Don't think about being well in less than 6 mo if there is a tear. Sacrifice a season save a lifestyle

Hmmm...considering I'm living in Durango this summer and having multiple days off in a row, this is gonna be tough!

Patrick Gillespie wrote: Did you have a posterior or anterior dislocation? How'd you bust yourself?

Pat, it was an anterior dislocation. Happened when I was bouldering, feet slipped. Not surprised honestly because I once had to call the EMT's on a guy that dislocated his shoulder bouldering. More injuries seen in bouldering than actual roped climbing... and that may have been the last boulder I ever touch!

Matthew Williams 1 wrote: ukclimbing.com/articles/pag…

Thanks Matt, PT pretty much assigned me all of these with therabands. I've been sticking with the exercises everyday and moving up to the more resistant bands. Even have started doing weights at the gym, low weight high rep. Rows, deltoid raise etc. Definitely been focusing more on legs and abs which is always good!

Swimming.

It's gentle, full ROM and easy to tailor (effort) to your current state of rehabilitation. Do crawl, backstroke and sidestroke to get all the rotator cuff muscles, tendons, etc.

Combined with antagonistic exercises, swimming is also excellent for preventing shoulder injuries.