Info regarding climbing the grand teton in june

Hello all,

I am planning on climbing the grand Teton this summer and was wondering if I could get some info as Ive never been to the park. A friend of mine told me there is a specific, '$200 permit' required to summit the grand Teton and mount moran, but I cant find anything about this anywhere. all I can see is that I would have to pay for parking pass and backcountry camping pass (don't intend doing it car to car). what else am I going to need?

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If there is ice, then we will probably be hitting some lower elevation stuff. open to suggestions for easy (5.6-) but long climbs. the grand Teton is the goal, but I know how difficult it is to predict conditions this far ahead.

Symettry Spire, SE ridge - you will not be disappointed.

there is no permit required for climbing, just for the backcountry camping, and i think its like $25. You'll probably want to camp either at the caves, the moraines, or the lower saddle. Camping at the meadows will still leave you low enough in elevation that your summit day will be pretty long. There will most likely be a large snowfield to cross before you get to the lower saddle, and crossing it will most likely involve crampons, an ice axe, and the ability to self-arrest. I wouldn't expect much ice on the mountain, usually its dry by june but I would plan on the frozen summer snow being in garnet canyon until around July 4th.

Kevin Bradford wrote:I wouldn't expect much ice on the mountain, usually its dry by june but I would plan on the frozen summer snow being in garnet canyon until around July 4th.

I've found its not usually dry by June...I'd say typically, you'll find snow and ice in especially shady locations on the upper mountain through June and in some seasons, into July as well.

From June 15 2012:

Conditions update for the Grand Teton: ice axe and crampons recommended for both the Upper Exum and Owen-Spalding Routes. Much of the rock on the routes is dry, however patches of hard snow and occasionally ice linger in chimneys, ledges, and cracks. Ice axe and crampons are also recommended to access the Lower Saddle from the Meadows.

Archives for conditions available:

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thanks for the info guys. the trip is for the last week of june/first week of july so I will stay updated on conditions and see what happens when it gets closer.

The OS was almost entirely snow and ice (starting in Garnet canyon) when I climbed it early June 2013. It was nice, we saw three people all day. And yes, you need a backcountry permit to bivy. If you do it in a day, you can skip the fees and hassle

Brian in SLC wrote: I've found its not usually dry by June...I'd say typically, you'll find snow and ice in especially shady locations on the upper mountain through June and in some seasons, into July as well. From June 15 2012: Conditions update for the Grand Teton: ice axe and crampons recommended for both the Upper Exum and Owen-Spalding Routes. Much of the rock on the routes is dry, however patches of hard snow and occasionally ice linger in chimneys, ledges, and cracks. Ice axe and crampons are also recommended to access the Lower Saddle from the Meadows. Archives for conditions available: tetonclimbing.blogspot.com/…

in shady locations, yes. i should've said "most of the rock is dry by the end of june" but it can change quite a bit from year to year, of course. last june for instance, when the meadows was under 8 feet of snow, and the fixed lines were completely buried as well, we didn't need crampons or an axe at all above the lower saddle for upper exum, and all the ledges and cracks were dry.

Can anyone report on the current conditions?

I'm interested as well. Looks like we'll be hiking in to the lower saddle on Monday.

blog post from 5 days ago recommended boots and axe to get to the lower saddle and get off the grand

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