PATAGONIA, First timers, risk, rewards, accidents.

I have been reading many threads, and responses on here about first timers heading down to Patagonia. When I say Patagonia, I don't mean alpine cragging at Frey. I am talking about the ElChalten Massif…

I have seen many posts about partners, gear, beta, and "Climbing the classics" on FitzRoy, or such.

Since the book has come out, more people are willing to try the area out. Some will get there, and wait with no weather window. Some will have a chance and send. Some will get there, take a look, and scale back the ambitions of plans. Some will get beat down by the approach. Some will send! Some will die...

I think back now about my first trip, and relate to the things I have learned. This February will be my third trip to the area. On trip one I climbed Mate Porro on the Fitz. I did have plans to do this peak, but doubted that it would actually happen. Luckily for me, my partners Thom Engelbach, and Jim Turner had been to the area before. Turner partner had already climbed the Supercanaleta on the Fitz, and my other partner Thom had worked on the first ascent of Mate Porro with Donini. It was his seventh trip or something like that… This was a big help for me as a nOOb to the massif. What, we need to ride a taxi for half hour to the approach? Why not just take the one out of town? After the taxi, where does the trail start, there is no sign of a trail! What about those clouds over there? They look like Colorado's mean clouds! What about this snow slope and avalanches?
Etc, etc, etc…

I have been also checking out Rolando Garibotti's website. For those unaware of this, it is very useful! PATAClimb.Com

In reading some things on this site, I started thinking more about aspects of the area. No wall rescues have ever been completed. The nearest (generally…) helicopter is eight hours flying time away.
We actually witnessed a part of a rescue (from way far away, and then learned more about it later..) in the Torre valley on trip number two in 2013 while climbing St.Exupery. Crazy stuff indeed, as it is all random people coming together for the sake of a fellow injured climber.

Thinking more about this, I read an article on Rolo's site about a chopper pilot dead because the chopper went down. This happened just a few weeks ago! Reading more into these accidents got me to thinking about myself, my partners, and our experiences.

When we climbed Mate Porro on the FitzRoy it took us six days town to town. Four days just to get up and down the mountain, not counting approach or exit. For us the route was special, as my partner had worked for three years on the first ascent with Donini. Eventually it was completed (a few years before us) by Rolo, and Bean Bowers. That was just to the top of the North Pillar. It had never had an ascent over the summit until a week or two before we did it! Donini, who has spent many seasons (years back) in the area has climbed numerous first ascents, but never has stood on top the FitzRoy! Crazy thought 'eh? Its only just under 40 full rope pitches, with only a few pitches of 5.8, and the rest of them in the 9,10,11 range. That's not counting the 2000 feet of steep snow soloing up to the base of the route, or the super super long one day, or for us normal humans two day approach.

So back to my story… Our ascent up, and down the Fitz, and the scary, stupid, or dangerous moments…

Starting up in poor weather, punching through the burgschrund starting the climb. No ice to melt for water on the first ledge. After a few more bivys we reach the top of the North Pillar. Wind so bad we would die of cold. (We moved one pitch back down to take shelter for the night..) Starting up the headwall (a full day of climbing above the pillar..) water is spraying down. This area always does this in the early morning to late in the day. We saw many parties bail from the top of the North Pillar because of this. They were all soaked, and would be getting hypothermia if they stayed. (To add to this, some of them that bailed down the North Pillar hit the glacier with only 35 meters of in tacked rope left!)
We got some of the headwall spray, but managed to get through it early enough to not be soaked!

We now stand on the summit at 5pm. Clouds had been bubbling, and barrel rolling over on the ice cap since the day before. Now they are here, below us, and creeping up the mountain towards our awesome summit where we had planned to bivy. Descending in the daylight is much easier with navigation, ropes getting stuck, etc. As the clouds move up, and engulf us, we re-evaluate our plan for a summit bivy! It has been 5 or so days since we got the last forecast, and we knew something was coming in after that week long weather window we had. What to do? Stay on top and descend in the light, or start now?
We have two down sleeping bags, one bivy sack, one JetBoil, and not much of any food left. It is snowing pretty good, and it is a heavy wet snow! Shit…

We reluctantly start to descend at 7something PM in the evening. We head down the other side of the mountain from what we climbed. The standard descent of the Franco-Argentine route. One of my partners has been down this before, after climbing the Supercanaleta. We thought this advantage would be perfect for us two that had not been down it before. Not the case! It is a huge summit, and while it is easy to kind of find the slope down to that start of the descent, it gets more vague is you head down. Tat anchors all over, heading all directions. We carry on with our or planned descent. Stick with the plan right or wrong, right? The snow is heavy, the fog prevents us from seeing more than 25meters in any direction.

As we continue down, we get more and more off route. We are now building our own anchors. Tapping stoppers in with our ice tools, the final person raps off this single piece pulling out the backups. The wall is super clean, and we are rapping double ropes. Double rope raps are NOT always good in these mountains due to terrain, wind, etc. We rap down areas that would be impossible to re-ascend, even with ice tools for an aid type advantage! Luckily the ropes never get stuck in these spots, until that one time…
The ropes won't move. Thankfully if we belayed our partner out left, and he jugged in space on the stuck rope over there it would slowly move, and eventually came down.

To add to that, if we rap too far to the climbers left the burgshcrund is so big that year no on can access the mountain there. If we go there we will need to go back up to escape off. If we rap too far climbers right, and miss the snow bench above La Brecha then we have an additional 500meters of rapping!

We rap until 4something AM. Still in the fog cloud, with no sight, we stop and shiver on a micro ledge to wait for the daylight to emerge. Probably good to stop here. Better to be higher than lower at this point incase we need to move more left or right to hit our target. As the light of the day emerges, we still can''t see very far, but catch a glimpse of the summit of Poincenot, and our target of where to hit the snow below the rock wall.
We make it to there safely (that is a relative term mind you..) and do a quick ice pitch to get up to La Brecha. From Brecha we have six or so dirty double rope raps down to the front side (where you can see the town..) During these raps, a giant double basketball size block just missed the heads of my two partners by one foot above their heads! I was spared a bit more room, as I made my own anchor off to the side so we weren't all crowded in. Shit, that was a close call again!
Finally to the final rap over the burgschrund. The schrund is pretty massive, probably 30 feet wide front to back, or say rock wall to glacier proper. First partner goes, and makes it across the maze of little ledges, and bridges to get from one side to the other. You kind of rap into the schrund, and then climb out the other side in a manner of things.
Second partner goes, and while weaving through the schrund to get out the other side the snow ledges/bridges break apart. He makes a crazy scream, and takes some crazy 40+ foot pendulum inside the thing. He eventually makes it hop to the other side. Great, it is my turn to head down into the unknown, and find out how to get from one side to the other with no assistance. My partners can't throw me a rope, I have both of them! Luckily it was not too bad. It was not easy though either. Finding the way through, up, and out was no trivial matter.
We rope up, and head down the glacier, trail, and back to town. Other climbers in town were very glad to see us at dinner that night! They were worried about us being out for so long, and all the others who had bailed that day from the top of the North Pillar. We share stories, and enjoy steak & wine with many!

So, in those days on the Fitz we had many close calls to some degree. It was not just one incident, but a handful of them! Long after this experience, I spoke to my friend Kelly Cordes. Now this is a guy I really look up to. An awesome alpinist with tons of experience in the field. He had a similar experience on the FItz. Kelly climbed the Fantasy Ridge (Longest? route on the mountain, 5.10) and descending the Franco like we did had the same getting lost experience. We chatted about this, and both remarked about going into some dark headspace, wondering if this was the end… Will we die here on the descent?!

That was my experience of "It can go wrong real quick, with no one to help you!"

Another friend got hurt on the Supercanaleta, and another died on there! I think there is 3 frozen dead guys on the FitzRoy now…

Back to Rolo's site, and a recent publication…. With more people heading down, and with lack of experience, or knowledge, more accidents are happening. Rolo says that for every good weather window that there is a serious accident! And in comparison there is a huge number of accidents compared to the number of users of the area…

I don't normally just copy/paste articles, as they are not mine to do this, but this time seems different. I am doing this to make people stop and think about their plans. Be safe folks!!! Here is something on Rolo's PATAClimb site that I think people should read to help keep them thinking straight, and safe!

_____________Copied/Pasted for your safety______________Thanks for the thoughts Rolo!_______________

Risk management in the El Chaltén Massif Some considerations
The huge number of accidents that have been happening in comparison to the number of users is worrisome. The experience of some of the climbers relative to the objectives they choose is concerning. Each good weather window there is at least one serious accident. Because the rescues are done on a volunteer and good samaritan basis, at this pace the pressure on the local community is unsustainable.
Climbing in such a serious wilderness area, where the rescues are done on a volunteer basis and where it is not possible to carry out wall rescues (other than self-rescue not a single wall rescue has ever been successful), requires that we learn to choose objectives that correspond comfortably to our skill level. Adequate risk management is essential. It is mandatory to behave in a self sufficient manner.
Some of the questions that climbers should ask themselves before attempting a route are the following:
– Are we in a physical and mental state that is conducive to the ascent we plan to do?
– Do we know the technical, physical and experience level of our partners?
– Have we chosen the objective based on our current condition, the conditions of the
mountain and the weather conditions or are we following a plan devised months ago?
– Is the objective we have chosen a logical progression when compared to our previous
experiences or is it a significant departure?
– Do we have group, cultural or personal pressure?
– Do we feel compelled to have a certain result?
– Do we have the technical level that the route requires?
– Do we have enough experience to find the ascent and descent routes?
– Do we have the gear that the route requires and that corresponds to our level of skill?
– What is our ascent plan?
– How many hours or days will we need to pull it off?
– If our progression does not correspond to what we have planned, will we be willing to
turn around?
– Will we encounter many situations or difficulties that are unfamiliar to us, that will
require improvisation?
– Do we know the escape routes that our ascent line offers?
– Can we recognize if a rappel station is safe or not?
– Do we know how to improve an existing rappel station?
– Do we know how to set rappel stations in virgin terrain, in rock, snow and ice?
– Do we know how to recognize a good and a bad piton?
– Are we aware that half of the climbing deaths in this area have occurred while descending?
– What is our plan in case of an emergency or accident?
– Who will we contact and how?
– Do we have the physical and technical skills to carry out self-rescue?
– Do we know how to do crevasse rescue in a fast and efficient manner? Have we
practiced this enough to be able to do it under stress?
– Do we know how to build a snow anchor to do crevasse rescue?
– Are we aware that 20% of the fatalities in this area have been the result of unroped
glacier travel?
– Are we able to put our partner on our back and rappel multiple times until we reach the
ground? Have we practiced this enough to be able to do it under stress?
– If our partner falls leading and is unresponsive, are we able to climb up to him, assist
him and lower him back to the belay station? Have we practiced this enough to be able to do it under stress?
– Are we familiar with wilderness first aid?
– Do we know how to diagnose and treat hypothermia, fractures, bleeding wounds,
concussions and other?
– Do we carry the implements required to stabilize such situations?
– Do we know how to confirm if someone is dead?
If we plan on being on snow:
– Do we know how to recognize the signs of avalanche danger?
– Do we know how to manage a group in terrain that is potentially dangerous for
avalanches?
– Are we aware that these considerations are not only for winter but for all year?
– Do we know how to choose an objective based on the conditions on the mountain and the weather forecast?
– Do we know how to dress accordingly?
– Do we know what weather conditions we are able to climb in?
– Does our ascent involve objective dangers?
– Do we have the ability to take the forecasted freezing line into consideration when
evaluating the risks that we will encounter?
– Can we identify the areas of the mountain that will become dangerous if the
temperature raises?
If we find bad conditions on the route we planned to climb, or if there are many people
on the climb:
– DowehaveaplanB?
– Can we recognize the types of routes that become too dangerous when there are too
many rope teams on them?
– Can we recognize the positive and the negative aspects of climbing in a large group?
– Are we aware that self-rescue will be far more viable if we are a team of three or more
people?
– Are we also aware that group mentality can lead to a false sense of security?
– Are we able to retreat without over dramatizing and perceiving it as a defeat?
– Are we aware that retreat can often times be a sign of human and sporting maturity that deserves the utmost respect?
– Are we aware that we don’t have to risk our lives only because there is good weather, even if good weather is rare?
– Are we aware that, in case of needing a rescue, we will be forcing many people to leave behind their plans and potentially put their lives at risk?
Safe climbing.
www.pataclimb.com

____________________________________________________________________________________________________

I am no safety guru, or know all that I need to know. I also need to learn more, and in no way want my story to be boastful, or I did this… I am sharing all this to help keep people safe, but at the same time motivate folks to go have fun in the big mountains! It is the most beautiful massif I have ever seen, or climbed in. IPatagonia is probably the most dangerous climbs I have ever done also, just because of size, weather, and logistics. I won't relate these to any solo climbing I do. It is just different I guess…

Here is a few links for pictures, possible beta, and general stoke for the area.

PATAClimb . Com - Rolo's site - guide book author.
THE source for up to date information!

My 2011 Trip report. FitzRoy & Guillaumet

2013 Trip report - St.Exupery
If you want more about my stories of the area, photos, videos.

Colin Haley - many years of trip reports.
Probably next in line after Rolo for the most knowledge of the massif.

Weather for area - Meatogram - Need to put coordinates in...
This is what most people use. Cerro Torre is: -49.3 −73.1
More info on the forecasting is on Rolo's site about this subject.

Be safe & have awesome adventures folks!
Cory

Thanks for posting this, a well-deserved public service announcement. I will second Cory's comments on being prepared, knowing your limits, and how to adjust to changing conditions on the fly.

I made 1 trip to Chalten in 08-09 but spent the entire season of 3 months there. My partner and I participated in 2 rescues during our stay. The first involved a boot-cuff fracture of the tib-fib. This occurred at the base of Torre de Media Luna just below Cerro Torre and a LONG way away from a road. My partner and I and our friends were the first ones on scene, this was after the 4 hours it took for us to descend from high on our routes on El Mocho and get over to the base. We splinted his leg and built a stretcher out of trekking poles, foam pads and packs. By this time a few more folks arrived, luckily one was a doctor in town and a radio call for help was made. No helicopter was available so it was up to the 8 of us to try and get him out as far as possible before dark. We are a few thousand feet above the Torre glacier and have to descend HORRIBLY loose moraine just to get down to the glacier. Then it is 15 miles to town, the first 3rd on the glacier, then a tyrolean traverse across the river, and then many miles on a trail to get to town and the clinic. We toiled, slipped, fell, dropped him, and did our best and got nearly to the glacier by midnight. At this point were were all beyond exhausted and could no longer see well enough to navigate. We found a semi-flat spot and rested and brewed hot drinks. At 6am the volunteer rescue team arrived from town with a proper mountain stretcher and about 25 people to rotate carrying it. The weather window continued for another day and a half but we were all too worked to climb anymore. We had all given up on our summits and the remainder of the window to assist the injured climber. He eventually made it to the clinic in town a full 24 hours after the injury.

The second rescue was for a person who succumbed to exhaustion after a 24hour effort on Poincenot. His partner could not carry him and left him on the glacier above Paso Superior in a growing storm. He hiked all the way to town and told people where the guy was but that he was too tired to go back up there. We were part of the last crew of relief to take turns carrying the litter out. A huge effort was required by the initial team to locate, stabilize, and begin extracting the stricken climber during a storm. Unfortunately this climber perished not long after arriving at the clinic in town. This effort also involved dozens of volunteer climbers who sacrificed their own climbs to come to the aid of another.

This place is no joke! There is no YOSAR, no 911, no hospital. The rescues are performed by the climbers themselves. The objectives are HUGE and conditions change radically in a very short time. Fitz is 6000ft of relief on many aspects. Think about it, that's double the size of El Cap and its NOT in sunny California.

I echo Cory's sentiments in that I am not trying to dissuade people from venturing to these mountains, just do so with a higher degree of caution and consciousness than you would in an alpine situation in the lower 48. Also consider trying some of the smaller, less traveled objectives to get a feel for the place. Unfortunately, many of the classic routes are terribly overcrowded during good weather windows. Nothing saps your stoke more than waiting behind multiple parties on something you've trained for months for.

Go forth, have fun, be safe, and most of all, be willing to help your fellow climbers in need. You never know when its gonna be your turn...
Felix

I feel like it was a real accomplishment to read both of those posts. Great stories though!

Safety first bump!

Here is a cool looking weather tool I stumbled across…

Windyty.com is the site...

Note to self: I want to read this

I know Morgan! Probably the longest damn thing I have posted on here..

That said, it seemed to be the only way to truly tell about all the close to bad things that
happened just on one climb. I know it's a lot of good decisions, but luck of the dice
plays a roll too.

Just want everyone to have fun, AND come home alive.
So many first timers with big dreams just like me! I got lucky in some ways I feel…

No doubt... and thnx for taking the time Cor! If it helps even just one person, ya did good!

Good shit! Thanks for sharing! :)

Safety bump... Cerro Torre soloed in raging storm!

Great post, Cory. It was fun to re-read about your ascent of Matte Y Poro.

Last winter, with only generally short and stormy climbing windows, it seemed like the already crowded handful of snow/couloir/ice routes were inundated with climbers, making them more dangerous than ever. Dozens of teams were waiting for just a half-dozen lines which could be climbed while wearing boots and gloves. When the rock climbing is "in" it helps to spread out folks out across more routes, but it still seems like a very very crowded range. I have also wondered about the consequences of a major forecasting error, given how apt parties are to trust the meteograms and plan big objectives with minimal storm gear. I think one major "5 day" weather window that suddenly turns into a 2-3 day window will ultimately leave many many teams in trouble all over the range...

Climb safely everyone!

Thanks Blake.

Bump.

Bumping for a good cause. Safety in the big mountains.

I know!
40 laps around the sun now. I heard that's what happens at this age…
My belly keeps getting softer, and my head keeps getting harder!

Thank you Cor and Flex for the stories! This thread should be at the top of Mp's site everyday.

Safety First

Hey you changed yer picture again! You going to that MP Vegas Beer night?
(I am not, but if I was… I'd buy ya a brew!) :)

What, you don't goto the Kraft at night with a tall girl? Just boys?
I am now confused considering the profile photos!
That propylene glycol shit! It's everywhere. In pet treats too.
Always gotta keep an eye out for the antifreeze in our food & drink system!

Bump for a good cause..

Today is the birthday of one of our mountain club members.. He died on fitz roy in 2011, climbing afanassieff. I didnt even imagined ever climbing anything back then, and for no Particular reaosn, i was thinking about climbing fitz as a long term objective, and out of the blue, his brother mentions at our group about his brother birthday and the whole story. That story hit me deep and remind me and should remind us all, like cor and flex said before, things can get real ugly real fast. And you are indeed by yourself up there, with some of the harshest weather you can have.

When our friend's brother died, the weather had turned and they had to bail just a few meters from the top. When rapelling, his rapel station broke and he fell maybe 60ft on a ledge, broke his hip and couldn't move. His partner, left him with the sleeping bag and some Warm Clothes. Finished the rappel by herself, with 17m of rope left at the end, hiked down, bivyed at the glacier Without any protection, directly on the ice. Made to the city and started the rescue.

She barely survived the hike back.

Helicopters were not avaible. Dozens of climbers went to help. One fell in a crevasse and almost died. Our friend survived for 3 days, but the broken hip was just too much for him.

He was a very skilled climber, president of our regional climbing association. His partner equally strong and capable. One of the best women's of her time. And yet.. They got caught into that misadventure that cost him his life.

I fell in love with fitz in 2019. I was hiking in patagonia and i did the laguna de los tres hike on the exact same day jim reynolds completed the fitz solo climb. I didnt knew back then how big it was. And how serious it still is.

I still want to climb that mountain someday, but we should not take it for granted, not the mountain, the preparation or our lifes. That place is indeed serious business, you're on your own. And boy, you can bet that that mountain is as fierce and deadly as it is beautiful.

Reality sometimes hit you so hard That you dont even have time to react.

Be prepared, stay safe. 

Anyway,

I hope that this story help someone who wants to embark in this endeavor, like it helped me now, taking my first steps in trad climbing, looking to the future. And reminding us of the dangers of our sport.

Cheers bernardo, hope your still climbing high, this story was the opportunity for me to miss someone i never met

https://mountainplanet.com/blog/two-climbers-missing-on-fitz-roy-one-dead-6558