White chalk in Garden of the Gods

Hello MP,
In the last year or so we've seen a noticeable increase in white chalk marks left on rock formations in Garden of the Gods park. As regular climbers should (hopefully) know, white chalk or any chalk which stains the rock is prohibited in GoG (along with other city parks where climbing/bouldering is allowed- springsgov.com/Page.aspx?Na… ). This is most apparent at the Snake Pits boulders and some other bouldering areas like the Blowouts on the West face of North Gateway, but is also apparent on several technical climbing routes.

It is our hope that by raising the issue with the local climbing community this issue can be one that is self-regulated, rather than getting to the point where it requires further attention/intervention by parks staff or becomes an access issue. Thanks for your time, and climb on.

Is local dirt allowed as a chalk substitute?

if the anasazi hadn't left their mark upon stone we would know so little of their culture...

obviously this is a sign of a rite of passage from members of the fukkahhway tribe.

Don Ferris wrote:Is local dirt allowed as a chalk substitute?

-Using local dirt/sand the same color (ie, does not leave stains) as the rock being climbed is acceptable.

Daniel H. Bryant wrote:Bouldering....cause you blew your money on weed instead of gear.

haha oh yeah using that sometime soon.

Cost effective solution: metoliusclimbing.com/eco_ba…

Seems like I've seen chalk there since the eighties..This must be a new thing. Funny how all of that Dakota sandstone around CoSpgs. doesn't get much attention.

doug rouse wrote:Seems like I've seen chalk there since the eighties..This must be a new thing. Funny how all of that Dakota sandstone around CoSpgs. doesn't get much attention.

The first time I climbed there more than 12 years ago the no chalk rule was in place. It is not new. Unfortunately many ignore the rule. This reflects poorly upon climbers as we are in the spotlight here with hundreds of non climbing visitors every day.

Dylan B. wrote:When I climbed at GOTG, the ranger's office sold eco-chalk bags that left no residue. They were a tad overpriced, since I only planned to use it for one day. But it was right there and not a big deal to buy one.

Not knocking you here... but I'll point out, convenience usually has it's price.

Dylan B. wrote:When I climbed at GOTG, the ranger's office sold eco-chalk bags that left no residue. They were a tad overpriced, since I only planned to use it for one day. But it was right there and not a big deal to buy one.

Metrolius eco-balls are available at the Garden of the Gods Visitor and Nature Center (where proceeds benefit the park, probably explaining the price discrepancy), as well as the REI in town and Mountain Chalet.

Greg D wrote: The first time I climbed there more than 12 years ago the no chalk rule was in place. It is not new. Unfortunately many ignore the rule. This reflects poorly upon climbers as we are in the spotlight here with hundreds of non climbing visitors every day.

This rule has been in place for a couple of decades, at least to 1993.

Ryan-Nelson wrote: I hope someone steps up to handle this situation down there, before park staff has to intervene. Garden of the Gods Staff.. Is there a climbing coalition that manages these sorts of situations around the springs?

Actual management is done by the Colorado Springs Parks Dept. A local climbing coalition (Pikes Peak Climbing Alliance) was just recently formed.

GardenoftheGodsStaff wrote: This rule has been in place for a couple of decades, at least to 1993.

It is a porous type of rock to climb on. You mostly have low humidity days there. The rock color is part of the appeal of the park to the general visitor. It seems perfectly reasonable to me that some sort of regulation on climber's chalk is in place.

GardenoftheGodsStaff wrote: Metrolius eco-balls are available at the Garden of the Gods Visitor and Nature Center (where proceeds benefit the park, probably explaining the price discrepancy), as well as the REI in town and Mountain Chalet.

Just finished up at GOTG today. Didn't notice eco-balls in the gift shop when we "registered' to climb. Wasn't mentioned by the climber friendly ranger. Had we known we probably would have picked some up. In any event the rock had good friction and we weren't sweating so need no for chalk at all.

Not to be critical, but those are some of the oldest bolts/anchors I have ever seen on Gray Rock.

GardenoftheGodsStaff wrote:Hello MP, In the last year or so we've seen a noticeable increase in white chalk marks left on rock formations in Garden of the Gods park. As regular climbers should (hopefully) know, white chalk or any chalk which stains the rock is prohibited in GoG (along with other city parks where climbing/bouldering is allowed- springsgov.com/Page.aspx?Na… ). This is most apparent at the Snake Pits boulders and some other bouldering areas like the Blowouts on the West face of North Gateway, but is also apparent on several technical climbing routes. It is our hope that by raising the issue with the local climbing community this issue can be one that is self-regulated, rather than getting to the point where it requires further attention/intervention by parks staff or becomes an access issue. Thanks for your time, and climb on.

Thank you for bringing this to the attention of climbers here, proactively, rather than just taking the next step in terms of access limitation. It's appreciated!

It's also likely to be helpful to get your message out there. I, for one, had no idea!

I climbed once in GoTG, and nowhere did I see any mention of the chalk ban. That being said, I climbed in late October, when it was nice and cool, so I don't think I used any chalk. It was the morning of my wedding day, and I took my best man and his wife up the North Ridge of Montezuma Tower as a little present and thank you to them. They had a great time, and really appreciated the beauty and fun of the place.

Thanks to the park staff for doing all you do - we appreciate it.

GO

Classic prank... if you climb with a chalk whore... replace his stash with powdered sugar...

Hope this issue doesn't persist. I would like to climb in GOG some day soon.

Wasn't the Snakepits the home of the first bouldering comp in the world? I've been climbing there for a few years now and know for a fact the chalk washes away with the storms. The stuff that doesn't has been there for ages. I had a ranger tell me they use wire brushes on the sandstone to remove the white chalk! They are sanding away at holds with wire brushes! The rock is way too soft for that...

Having also tried the alternative methods, (eco ball, dirt, etc...) I can tell you any boulderer out there giving half an effort is going to want to use white calcium carbonate unless it's that one day a season the temp is magic for the friction. Obviously chalk is a past time and part of the history of the area. I think it's worth a discussion between climbers and whatever part of the Garden of the Gods staff is opposed to the stuff.

I would like to thank the Staff of Garden of the Gods for shedding light and recognition on this matter. In the climbing community, we are lucky to share ethical interest in our backyard. After noticing the need to preserve our climbing areas in the Pikes Peak Region, we have started the Pikes Peak Climbers Alliance (PPCA). With the help from the Access Fund and the Rocky Mountain Field Institute, we are here to sustain the future access and ethics in climbing for generations to come. Working hand in hand with the city, we would like to invite people to visit our website and contribute concerns and specifics with us. Please visit and ask any questions via our website at pikespeakclimbersalliance.org. Please visit Colorado Springs local climbing retailers to purchase colored chalk which is required to climb in Red Rocks Open Space and Garden of the Gods.

Best,
Pikes Peak Climbers Alliance

all hail the holy dollar
thine tourist be thy name we shall bow beneath thouest sacred reign
How can climbers be so stupid
We need to CAPITALIZE all the native treasures
Rare and precious goods everywhere
TO USURp

Alex Hesler wrote:... Obviously chalk is a past time and part of the history of the area. I think it's worth a discussion between climbers and whatever part of the Garden of the Gods staff is opposed to the stuff.

a part of the history of GOG? i'm assuming it's a small part of the history. a really small part....

Damn Pebble Wrestlers!