September climbing in Mallorca and Rodellar

Hi all,
I'm spending the month of September in Spain. I'm mostly going to climb in Mallorca and hoping to make it out to Rodellar at the end of my trip. Anyone have beta on where climbers should stay, necessity of renting a car, where to find climbing partners etc? Will any of y'all be out that way? I've heard the sport climbing on Mallorca is actually quite spectacular, anyone know about this? I'm planning on bringing my own rope and draws. Leading up to low 5.12 sport. Never DWS before but I'm keen on doing a lot of it on the island.

Cheers!
Sarah

Hey Sarah I have some good beta for Rodellar. First off its the best sport climbing in the world without a doubt no were compares. Finding partners should be very easy around September its peak climbing season there. I would highly recommend staying at the hostal Kalandraka it's diffidently were the scene is at and will be your best bet for partners. (speaking Spanish will def. increase your partner possibilities)
I would highly recommend renting a car because public transit would be a pain. I don't even think you could get to rodellar without having to hitch a little. And a car will open up a lot of possibilities if you want to go anywhere else.

Thanks for the beta! Do you think Rodellar is worth it if I'm only climbing up to low 5.12s? I've heard many people say it's best if you're climbing 7b+ and above.

There is more than enough to do at that grade range for a month trip.

Mallorca climbing is quite good, and is mostly a collection of smaller crags. I would recommend that you get the Rockfax Mallorca guide. Because it is difficult to be located centrally to climbing, I would highly recommend a car, or at least a scooter. We went twice, and stayed in Puerto Pollenca and right outside of Valldemosa, in apartment rentals both times. Each location was fine for climbing, as Mallorca is not really a big place. As for deep water soloing, Santanyi on the SE coast is a good introduction.

I'm too lazy to retype everything, but I put a bunch of good beta here for Mallorca. rockclimbing.com/cgi-bin/fo…;page=unread#unread

Let me know if you have any specific questions on Mallorca.

I enjoyed the climbing in Mallorca and Rodellar and I struggle at 12s so you should have great fun. Definitely enjoyed the DWS with my sons. We had a great time and ran into folks from Arizona!

If you can include a side trip/rest from Rodellar, talk someone into driving a couple hours to Riglos. Conglomerate limestone, bolted multipitch above the village of Riglos. A refugio is located in town.

Hey Sarah,

I'll be arriving on Mallorca around the 20th of September. I lived there Kat tar so no the island quite well and would be happy to climb with you. The dws is awesome, and the sport climbing is world class. A lot of the better crags are under the radar and not in guides. PM me and I'll give you some beta.

Hey thanks everyone for the great info. I'd probably more keen on renting a scooter, sounds fun! Has anyone stayed in Palma? Seems like a fun city but maybe father away from some of the more popular climbing spots?

Thanks again!

Hi Sarah; Mallorca is doable on a scooter, but if you stay in Palma, and want to climb around places like Formentor, you may want to travel on the freeway, where speeds of up to 150kph are common. The tratamuntana range, where a lot of the climbing is, also has some pretty steep roads. We had a Smart the first time, which was perfect, while the second time the car rental place involuntarily upgraded us to a Citroen C5, which was WAY too bid for the place. There are side roads that you can travel on a scooter however.

We stayed at Hostal Atlanta in Palma on the English speaking side of the bay. Nice place nothing fancy.

We rented a car and a scooter would have been frightening on some of the roads outside Palma. In town, it would be a blast to ride a scooter.

For the 8€ per day it costs to rent a car, I wouldn't even consider a different option.

Thanks for the hostel suggestion. Did anyone feel like international climbers were in one town more than others? I'm getting the feeling that Palma is not a main spot fot climbers. Maybe Soller?

Rodellar is great! Was just there...had lots of fun and the hardest thing I led was 6c. If you're planning on staying more than a few days, it's best if you can lead some 7s though. Stayed at Kalandraka which was convenient. There's also a campground walking distance from the crags.

Hey Justin, I'm not sure if I'm going to make it to Rodellar. The more I'm researching, the more I'm getting excited about hanging on the island. If you're still in Mallorca, let me know. I'm definitely looking for sport climbing partners.

Hi!
just signed up to this forum to reply to this thread. Not trying to hijack at all sarah, just hoping to find a partner or someone to chill with
my name is Douglas and I'm travelling and climbing around Europe at the moment. Heading to Mallorca from the 10th - 17th September. Hoping to meet up with anyone to do some climbing. I comfortably climb around f5.10
got my own rope and draws. Especially interested in some DWS but down for sport too. :)
also would like to thank all previous posters for their tips and input, will help me on my way around.

cheers!

Douglas

Hey Sarah, as others have said the climbing on the island is amazing. I met my partners for the week I was there though foracorda.com/beta/en/forum/17. They are some real great people on there. I purchased the guidebook from one of the two climbing shops in Palma, I believe it was boncami.com/. The other one is called Foracorda. If you would like the names of a couple people out there, send me a PM.

Have a fun trip!