One Arms
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Steps I've used: |
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Question: Is training to do 1 arm pullups an efficient use of your training time, in order to improve as a climber? Granted, it is a pretty neat party trick, but is this really what is holding you back from your climbing goals? |
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JCM wrote:Question: Is training to do 1 arm pullups an efficient use of your training time, in order to improve as a climber? Granted, it is a pretty neat party trick, but is this really what is holding you back from your climbing goals?I've found it very useful actually, its changed my climbing pretty drastically. I used to rely solely on dynamic movement and it severely limited my options, now I KNOW I can lock off most moves if need be. |
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There is no training for the one arm, either you can do it or you are hopelessly weak :| |
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one armed pull ups mean nothing if you can't follow up with a set of one armed push ups. Just letting you know. |
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I did a lot of weighted pull-ups, 4-6 reps 2-3 sets with 5-10 minute rests in between. When I plateaued around exercise 6 I would switch it up to uneven pull-ups with a long sling, 8-10 inches or so. Also you have to be on the lighter side for sure. |
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If you are dead set on doing a one armed pull up, Charlie and Josh's suggestions seem pretty solid. Also, look into the "Recon Ron" pull up program. It's a long term and low intensity approach that cross fit types use to increase overall maximum reps. Which may or may not contribute to your cause, but would seem to assist with overall endurance. |
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Jon Zucco wrote:one armed pull ups mean nothing if you can't follow up with a set of one armed push ups. Just letting you know.That's child's play, one arm handstand pushup (which I cannot do), now we are talking... I'd say if you want to do a one arm pullup, then you should steer clear of the crossfit BS (not to mention the "kipping" pullups crossfitters do is horribly non-applicable to climbing). One arm is a test of strength, not fitness. As far as whether it helps climbing. IMO, if you don't have a glaring weakness in your climbing (finger/hand strength, technique), then it does help. And really, it doesn't detract very much from general climbing training. |
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except all those pull-ups will destroy your shoulders in time… |
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About 10 years ago, I still did pullups. Could do about 30 in a set when training endurance, and 3 sets of 6 reps with 70lb strapped on for strength (I weighed about 140) . At that point, I could not do a one arm. |
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NickinCO wrote:except all those pull-ups will destroy your shoulders in time…If you do them with poor forms and don't work on your opposing muscles, then yes. Will S wrote:So much for the "isometrics only train a small range of motion" (I actually believe that, but still).If you are pretty strong to start with, you don't necessarily need to train if your style of climbing utilizes your pulling strength. When I was in high school I did a lot of pullups & was able to almost do an one arm. Then I got heavier and couldn't do one in college anymore. Not that longer after picking up climbing, not having specifically trained for pullups, and weighing the same as college, I found I can do it, much more easily than I ever could. Doesn't meaning training won't get you even stronger. |
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Definitely work on opposing muscle groups, and stretching or yoga type exercises. Rest and proper diet for recovery is essential as well to make sure your joints are aligned and in good health. Otherwise, yeah, you're going to destroy both your elbows and shoulders eventually. |
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reboot wrote: Doesn't meaning training won't get you even stronger.True. I stopped doing pullups mainly because I found it really hard on my elbows. But I know a couple guys in their 50s who knock out 100-200 in a day with seemingly no ill effects. |
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Jon Zucco wrote:Definitely work on opposing muscle groups, and stretching or yoga type exercises. Rest and proper diet for recovery is essential as well to make sure your joints are aligned and in good health. Otherwise, yeah, you're going to destroy both your elbows and shoulders eventually.+ one million. I used to do pull-up ladders 1-10-1 4 or 5 days a week coupled with climbing really steep routes in the gym. My right shoulder is so jacked up I look like I have a disfigurement. My right shoulder is rolled forward and sits about 2" lower than my left. Doc diagnosed it as shoulder impingement syndrome. Went through numerous cortisone shots, and finally 3 months of PT to make it feel better. If I haven't done my exercises in a while and go climb it hurts bad enough afterwards that I can't sleep on it. I basically took a year off climbing last year because of work and other hobbies and my shoulder still looks like shit. |
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It's been a couple years, but I used to be able to do 3-4 on either side. |
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It's more of a parlor trick than anything, IMHO. I wouldn't hurt myself trying to do one. |
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JCM wrote:Question: Is training to do 1 arm pullups an efficient use of your training time, in order to improve as a climber?I read somewhere that Adam Ondra was pulling down on 9b by the time he was able to do a single one-arm pull-up. PS. There are better ways of training lock-off strength out there, no? |
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I can do one arms and im not a very good climber. |