Bad Bolts in Las Vegas

b k wrote:

Thanks for the report. Please tell everyone you know not to top rope directly through the anchors. These are for lowering the last climber in the party.

Yikes! Those are much worse than what I normally see running around. I guess the volume the corridor gets plus all the sand in the ropes will do this fairly quickly, but that's still much worse than average.

Natalie Blackburn wrote:

Yikes! Those are much worse than what I normally see running around. I guess the volume the corridor gets plus all the sand in the ropes will do this fairly quickly, but that's still much worse than average.

These have not been up long enough for wear to be that extreme, if they were used properly (lowering the last climber in a party), rather than top roping on them. They would still be worn, but wouldn't require replacement. Obviously Black Corridor is very heavily trafficked, and the entire base is a beach, but best practices need to be reinforced otherwise an accident will happen as thousands of folks have used these unsuspectingly. They are not free to replace, nor is our time to go out there and babysit folks by making sure they don't climb on bad hardware, infinite. Please spread the word, donate to the American Safe Climbing Association, and the Southern Nevada Climbers Coalition.  

b k wrote:

These have not been up long enough for wear to be that extreme, if they were used properly (lowering the last climber in a party), rather than top roping on them. They would still be worn, but wouldn't require replacement. Obviously Black Corridor is very heavily trafficked, and the entire base is a beach, but best practices need to be reinforced otherwise an accident will happen as thousands of folks have used these unsuspectingly. They are not free to replace, nor is our time to go out there and babysit folks by making sure they don't climb on bad hardware, infinite. Please spread the word, donate to the American Safe Climbing Association, and the Southern Nevada Climbers Coalition.  

Agreed, for sure. Even if I'm just leading up before a single partner, I'll lower off my own draws, and only they will use the fixed gear. I've had this conversation at so many crags with so many groups over the years.

How long have those been up on that route? Any sharp edges on them?

These look similar to what I've pulled off routes in New Mexico when someone reports worn anchor hardware.

Seems like for some super-busy routes that less expensive plain steel lower-out hardware should be used vs SS.  They will wear out and be replaced long before rust is an issue.  Such nice 316 SS going to waste...

The left bolt here continuously spins and does not tighten.

Third anchor off the deck of Solar Slab Gulley. 

KrisG wrote:

Cameron, did you try tightening it? Or can you confirm if the nut is still tight but the bolt is wallowing in the hole? Either way I'll replace with glue-ins. Was just looking for helpful info regarding the situation.

First pitch anchors on Sendimental have been replaced.

First bolt on Pain in the Neck at Sweet Pain wall is spinning and very suspect looking.