Goals and 5.12

Climbing is my newest passion in life. It seems to be all I think about in the winter and it drives my psyche all summer. The motivation climbing gives me to try hard transfers over so well to other facets of life. This past year I put in some pretty solid effort in trying to progress as a climber. I got in the gym around 2-4 days a week all winter and in the summer was out at least three days a week. I got pretty strong pretty fast and found myself onsiting some 11's and feeling super confident on 10+ trad lines. However, I've yet to break through the .12 barrier. Ive been training this winter and feeling pretty solid but I just wanted to ask folks out there what were a few things that allowed them to cross over into that new realm that seems so close yet so much harder. Ive been dreaming of blue limestone in Ten Sleep and sinker pockets and it would get me so stoked if this year was the year where I felt super solid. Thanks!

Sounds very normal. Most athletic people can climb .10 trad and .11 sport with hard work and a positive attitude. To get to the next level takes more determination but also a more thought out and concentrated training plan. Also, time, patience, a better than average diet and a lot of rest.

Keep doing what you're doing. Don't change too much all at once. If it's not broken, don't fix it.

Analyse everything you do. Focus on eliminating bad habits first. Then, carefully add to what you are doing to address any weaknesses. But don't take it too seriously. It's not all that hard to lose your psyche.

If you haven't already done so, read the Self Coached Climber and 10 Mistakes Climbers Make. If you have, read them again.

Most 5.11 climbers who are newish to the sport lack true self control and have poor footwork. Also, you probably haven't built up much finger strength yet and have relatively low power output and power endurance.

These weaknesses are normal and can be fixed with patience and hard work. If those are the things keeping you from the next level then you're right on track.

I'll let someone smarter and more experienced give you the more detailed training info, but first, you should explain to everyone exactly what you do on a day out or a session at the gym. What kind of hard routes are you comfortable on? Which "easier" routes have whipped you? Etc.

I Stopped thinking of it as such a big deal it is just a grade. although it is a great thing reaching new benchmarks. What I did that started me climbing them though was jumping on routes way harder than I thought I could do. Linking maybe a few moves at best and just having fun. Then when I went back and tried my 5.12 project it felt really easy and I sent one after the other. I don't really like the idea of training. Instead just climb a bunch and have fun. You will get it soon with the right attitude. It's all in the head.

You have gotten some good advice. I'll give you another piece; climb with people that are better than you.

Yeah, +1 to what JT said…

Don't get too serious, as in the numbers only. That makes you forget the fun of it all.
And kind of like said, jump on hard things, hangdog around and have fun.
You can't climb 5.12 by climbing 5.11

Do what feels right, and train when you are motivated, or with a great group that keeps
you motivated. Don't train when you don't feel like it. That shit can burn ya out…

First of all, you have to stop thinking of 5.12 as being some mythical "realm". Most climbers get mental blocks by giving a certain grade to much power of them.

Second, figure out what your weak points are and go about correcting them.

Third, "progression" requires dedication and a form of masochism or...a love of the impossible. You have to put in the time, if you want to push yourself to the limit that is.

I would also suggest getting your boulder grades up since you ll most likely be facing anything from v4-v6+ depending on the types of routes you choose.

JT said it best. I used to just train in the gym on all kinds of routes, but I feel that my best improvements have come from routes I know that are way harder than my "Conscious capability". Have the mindset that you are going to succeed on a route that you "shouldn't" due to grade. I guarantee you will see grade improvements in a few months.

start bouldering. 5.12 cruxes will feel EZ as shit. Then you just have to get your power endurance up a LITTLE bit and you can squeak your way through some 12a's.

I'm in a similar place as the OP. There are pearls in all of the above comments. The thing that is making the biggest difference for me is climbing with better climbers. I'm getting very good coaching, as they can see exactly what I'm doing wrong on particular sequences. I find I'm succeeding on things that I truly could not envision myself doing. Their observations also point out that I'm making technical errors that I do not make at easier grades, primarily regarding body position and foot work.

Bluetooth speakers. Loud ones.

How to break the 5.12 barrier...TRY 5.12 ROUTES. It sounds simple, and it is simple. Dont worry about the "Ominous 5.12" grade. Focus on the climbing. Make one move at a time until you either fall, or send. "Half the battle of a hard onsite is tying into the rope"-Dosage.

I remembered this from a while ago. That middle part is pretty important.

lazyhclimbingclub.wordpress…

My advice: learn how to project well. Don't be afraid of spending multiple days of effort on one redpoint and don't get frustrated if you can't do all the moves first time up. If you have onsighted some 11s, I'd say you're ready to project 12a.

Thanks everyone for the comments!! I would say the two biggest takeaways is to 1- Get on routes that are out of my ability to get used to climbing harder pitches and 2- Just get out and climb and boulder a ton! Doesn't sound too bad to me!

Taylor Spiegelberg wrote:Thanks everyone for the comments!! I would say the two biggest takeaways is to 1- Get on routes that are out of my ability to get used to climbing harder pitches and 2- Just get out and climb and boulder a ton! Doesn't sound too bad to me!

#1 and #2, as you list them, are very good advice. I'll add two more to think about:

#3: Climb with 5.12 (or higher) climbers. Climbing with people who are better at climbing than you will quickly bring up your level. You'll learn from them new technique, new redpoint tactics, and new ways of thinking that will help your climbing advance. Plus, they'll likely know the local 11's and 12a's quite well, and can direct you to the right routes to get on.

#4. Don't get hurt. Don't overdo it. Listen to your body. Rest. Don't try too hard too soon...progress in climbing is a gradual process. Be patient.

It's a fine line between passion and obsession. I suppose you could say a 5 year old child is passionate about a new toy. Seems like if you are truly passionate about climbing the numbers wouldn't matter.

MC Poopypants wrote:It's a fine line between passion and obsession. I suppose you could say a 5 year old child is passionate about a new toy. Seems like if you are truly passionate about climbing the numbers wouldn't matter.

not necessarily true. Numbers are simply a way gauging ones improvement. Just a runner looks at miles and times, a climber who is motivated to improve, must focus on numbers. People have it in there head that if you talk about numbers and reaching a new level, all you are doing is number chasing so you can brag while your in the gym or sitting around beers at a local brewery. This is not always true. With no other way to measure ones level of improvement, numbers are key. The passion is pushing one's self to their absolute limit, not the numbers.

MC Poopypants wrote:It's a fine line between passion and obsession. I suppose you could say a 5 year old child is passionate about a new toy. Seems like if you are truly passionate about climbing the numbers wouldn't matter.

Whoa, guy! Not really... You should never discredit/disrespect something you don't understand just because you don't understand it. That kind of thinking is the root of many evil things.

And yes, comparing a man with drive and determination to a 5 year old with a toy is disrespectful to him and to others like him.

I would say passion and obsession are two sides of the same coin rather than divided by a line. The most passionate are the most obsessed, and vice versa. I think it's simply a matter of your perspective.

Regardless, climbing is a game of numbers and we've got to acknowledge that. When we all become enlightened enough to ignore grades completely and free solo everything... it will be a fine day indeed.

Enjoying the process of getting better at something is not a choice, it's wired into the brain.

In addition, since we are social creatures that live and try to survive in a social environment, some of that enjoyment is also inevitably tied into competition with those that are close to our level i.e. if there is a certain amount of enjoyment in going from 12a to 12c, if your partner went from 12a to 12d in the same period, you're probably gonna enjoy it a little less. If he only got to 12b, you might enjoy it a little more. This effect is only valid for people you perceive to be truly close to you in ability. I've had partners that have improved 6 letter grades while I went up one or two, but I never really compared myself to them because the minute I saw them climbing, I knew they were much better climbers than me.

You can bitch and moan all you want about how it shouldn't be that way, and delude yourself about how great you feel to be stuck at 5.10 for twenty years, but that's just the way it is.

Sure, you can also just enjoy the learning/getting better circuits in your brain in terms of visiting new areas, climbing different types of rock with different techniques, meeting new people,etc. but if you were also getting better technically that would only add to the enjoyment.

Passion is an obvious trait of all of us climbers. I think everyone has it in different doses. I have buddies that want to get out all day everyday and we stay out well past dark. On the other hand theres always those friends that have to be pulled out of their house if the day isn't just perfect. Obsession can be a good thing. I considered myself obsessed with climbing early on in college and my dad always solidified that fact. Obsession keeps me coming back and is probably the reason I asked for MP'ers advice in the first place on this page. Without passion and obsession, would our sport really be all that much fun? I have no passion for shoveling snow or making pizza at work yet you gotta do what you gotta do. Above all, I don't think anyone can have too much passion/obsession. The people criticized for being too passionate or "obsessed" are the ones that drive me to climb harder and the ones that are pushing our sport. The guy calling you at 5 right after he got off work to get to the crag and get some pitches in is always the most fun person out there. My best climbing days have always been spent with people who are always just as stoked if not more so than me to get out on the rock. More stoke = more fun!!!