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Black Diamond Dawn Patrol jacket

Original Post
Mike Barter · · Banff, AB · Joined Oct 2013 · Points: 15
Mountainguide.com Rants and Raves

Black Diamond Clothing Review

This year Black Diamond decided to enter the lucrative clothing market. This totally makes sense. They have been the maker of some of the best outdoor climbing and skiing equipment on the planet. They are also fairly innovative and will to throw stuff out at the market which really hasn’t been tested by other companies. Better known as a hardware company with the exception of gloves which do quite well. It seemed to me that a company with their background and proven experience is going to make some pretty good outdoor clothing for the active climber and skier.

Just so that you know and in the interest of full disclosure I do get a pro deal which is roughly 50% off. With that kind of discount and the need for some gear for the coming winter I took a chance and ordered a few items. Since I didn’t get anything till early September it took awhile to field test the clothing and give them a honest try in real world conditions. Since it is only the last week of November one might say that it is a bit early to give a honest review. Maybe your right, but I would like to argue that I have been doing this outdoor climbing and skiing thing for quite awhile. I’ve worn gear since the age of wool, not quite wooly mammoths but awhile. I can spot the flaws and the goods. So here is my breakdown.

Dawn Patrol Hybrid Shell: It wasn’t very long ago that Gore the company that supplies the material for these water proof breathables would not allow a jacket to be made that was not 100% waterproof. A recent change in creative wording has allowed them and Black Diamond to go ahead with this design. Also of note Arcteryx had a hybrid design a number of years ago but which was shot down by Gore. I suspect they (Arcteryx) may have another model in the works which would be good for everybody because they don’t make stuff that is just as good but equipment that can be considered a game changer.

I have the Dawn Patrol Alpine Jacket not the LT. I am a big fan of Schoeller material. It is a stretch fabric that is tough and breathable. I have had dozens of pairs of pants from the time that Mammut first came out with their version of a climbing pant. When I heard they were incorporating it into a jacket I thought to my self “self, this is interesting” Then I thought “ I am I talking to myself” My self seemed to say “ Looks like it” Thought I had better stop right there before things get carried away and I get institutionalized.

The dawn patrol is a slim fitting jacket. I’m 5.101/2 175 lbs. So I am right in between large and medium in most cases. I always order a large when it comes to jackets and that works out fine. This time is no exception as this comes in a bit slimmer then usual. Maybe 10% slimmer then the Arcteryx storm shells. For me this works great. If your fitting just right in a large then maybe going in someplace where this gear is sold and try on a extra large. I am able to fit a light puffy under it. Atom SV hoody in this case. The light version works better but the full weight works well also. This I did when the temps hit -23C with some wind. I was pretty pleased with the performance. The stretch material allowed for freedom of movement and breathability wasn’t a issue because I was ice climbing at the time. Trust me before you call me a complete idiot, I wouldn’t be out ice climbing at that temperature if i wasn’t working. Ski touring maybe ice climbing not to likely.

The movement aspect is pretty good in this jacket which is what one would expect with stretch material across the back. I did a fairly hefty ski tour the other day and found that I really did like the breathability aspect of this jacket. Especially when moving actively for extended periods of time. When I did stop for breaks I throw on the SV puffy over the jacket and was completely comfortable. Stuff the puffy back in the pack and I am back and running or breaking trail in this case. It will be awhile yet before I have perfected layer system but perfect it I will.

The hood fits a helmut really well. Better then most I have to admit. This may be because of the stretch material. However I seem to get pretty good range of movement and fairly unrestricted view. That's about all I can say about that.

There is no shortage of pockets on this puppy which is a good thing. I tend to use pockets a lot to distribute gear that I may need when on a longer climb instead of having that Swiss army harness. All the outside pockets are properly located. Lower waist are great for holding snacks and stuff when not wearing a harness. The pockets are low enough that your pack waistband doesn’t seem to ride on whatever is in the pocket. The upper Napoleon pockets are located high enough to be out of the way when wearing a harness. The zippers function nicely and are not finicky like so many other jackets.Even with gloves they are not to bad. Really the last thing you need when your cold and tired is to be messing with zippers. The drop pockets on the inside are small but big enough to carry a pair of tighter ice climbing gloves for those Wyoming glove sluts (Polar Circus you guys know who you are).

The back and jacket are long enough that when your wearing a harness and reaching high above your head it stays tucked in.

Overall I think this is a pretty good layer but what it is not is the all weather Gore-Tex armour. I bought this a a replacement for my ageing Arcteryx Theta AR mountain jacket. The Theta is about as good an all weather shell as I have ever owned. So the bar was set pretty high. I should point out that the Dawn Patrol is about $250 cheaper then the high end Arcteryx so that really is a factor to consider ($350 VS $600). The Patrol plays well and if you can afford two layers I would add this to my quiver of shells. I had one occasion when working on a film gig in high winds (steady 60 km with 80 gusts) that the Schoeller material did not block the wind and I felt the heat being sucked right out of me. I regretted wearing it that day and wish I had the full Gore-Tex shell. However on cold active days and for most ice climbs you won’t find a better jacket for the price. I can’t recommend it for a single all purpose layer and wouldn’t be my choice for extended alpine trips where wind and moisture are a real possibility and getting wet is going to be a life critical situation. What I can recommend it for is sport ice climbing and even big routes most days as long as your getting back to the car. I am pretty sure this layer will be with me on most ski tours as I always throw a puffy layer over my shell no matter what. So having something super breathable is a real bonus. Most summer alpine and multi pitch rock climbing this would be fine. Pretty good first effort I would say, well done Black Diamond.

Glass Tupperware · · Los Angeles · Joined Jul 2012 · Points: 40

Thanks for the review! I've been wondering about the dawn patrol line. I think I'm going to stick to just my Knifeblade pullover though (not as stretchy but much more waterproof?). Keep up the Mike's Mail vids!

coop Best · · Glenwood Springs, CO · Joined Jan 2005 · Points: 485

thank you for posting the review

Ray Pinpillage · · West Egg · Joined Jul 2010 · Points: 180

I have to admit, after trying on most of the new BD clothing I am seriously impressed. There has been a ton of internet shit slinging because its BD but the clothing speaks for itself. Thanks Mike.

Joe McKay · · Banff, AB · Joined Sep 2009 · Points: 0

Update on this jacket: Well a winter has passed and I have had a lot of time to take this jacket out. I was climbing Blue Angel down in southern Alberta with the head of Arcteryx Advanced R/D and had a chance to pick his brain about this garment and it's design.
The one thing that I didn't notice before but certainly do now is just how light this jacket really is. It packs up so light that it really is that go to item when ever I am walking out the door. Warm days ice climbing I will throw a puffy belay Jacket over top of it. On cold days it is a great insulating layer that fits over my warm puffball layers. Because of the stretch in the material it fits comfortably over the outer layers. Often it is just that little extra armour that is required.
Durability wise it seems to be holding up pretty well. I must have 60 to 70 days on this layer by now and it still looks pretty good. I am not easy on gear I might add.
It is not a bomb proof all weather mountain shell rather a active wear garment that fits into the hiker, biker, mountain runner and crag climber. Would I recommend this. Yes if you can afford two shells. If all weather is your priority this is not your garment. I am much more impressed with this layer now that I know how to better pair it up with layers. I use it skiing, ice climbing, ski touring. Breathable, light weight and durable.

CORRECTION:I stated that Gore was involved with the material in the original review. However it is a Shoeller material which makes sense given Gores I hate water attitude.

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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