Scarpa crux approach shoes any good? sizing?

Intrigued by the comments on the Salewa Wildfires, I got myself a pair. Here are my fist impressions.

While the Wildfires are better hiking shoes, when it comes to climbing, I find the Gecko Guide much better. (Too bad they still hurt my feet after one year.)

To some extent it depends on fit, and different climbers will accordingly have different opinions, but the Wildfires almost feel more like lightweight mountaineering boots than climbing shoes. Their toeboxes are too bulky for effective jamming, and the rubber isn't that sticky. They fit medium feet best. (In fact, I'm considering replacing the insole with one that takes out a bit more room.)

On the positive side, they are well made, they are comfortable out of the box, and they are light.

Thanks, brenta, good to know!

Nodin deSaillan wrote:Salewa Wildfire is like the gecko guide but better ;)

After trying 5-6 different pairs of approach shoes I settled on the Wildfires. I need a bit more cushioning in the forefoot, so that eliminates things like the Gandas. They look more like a hybrid running/approach shoe than something like the Boulder X's.

I soloed with the Wildfires on snowy, icy limestone in the Austrian Alps. They climbed well and were less sloppy than the La Sportiva Xplorers that I normally wear. Unlike Brenta I didn't have any complaints on stickiness and this was on wet rock. I can't speak to the men's shoe, but I have wide Asian feet and they were plenty roomy for me. We'll see how they hold up, but so far I wish I had found them in advance of last summer's alpine season.

Nodin deSaillan wrote:The Wildfires climb really well. Precise edging and comfortable jamming with little slippage. They remind me a bit of Gandas but with less bulk and weight. They offer a lot of arch support and heel cushion which I didn't find as much with the gecko guide and certainly not with the crux. They do fit quite narrowly, so that may be a deal-breaker for a lot of folks

I have a pair of Wildfire and I think the Crux is probably a better shoe for climbing. The Wildfire are more comfortable and more padded but feels imprecise and soft. I walk funny so I usually only get a season out of my shoes before they get replaced. I probably will not buy another pair of the Wildfire. Not a bad shoe and they have held up great really, but they don't anything all that well besides hike and I can get hiking shoes cheaper.

Hey, Ben. Have you had a chance to try the Scarpas? If so, what do you think?

Ryan Nevius wrote:Hey, Ben. Have you had a chance to try the Scarpas? If so, what do you think?

They are fine, lighter, better fit and better performing for me than the Boulder X. I don't climb in them to speak of, use as approach shoe for approach/descent without getting too radical.

fossana wrote: Unlike Brenta I didn't have any complaints on stickiness and this was on wet rock.

I guess it goes to show that fit trumps all else. Two very favorable reports by climbers with wide feet, and a very unfavorable report by narrow-footed me. (Not sure where the fourth reporter, Ray, stands in that regard.)

Yesterday I finally mustered the resolve to give the Wildfires a second test drive. It went worse than the first. (First and second were on the Third, which was dry in both cases.) A lot of my lack of confidence with those shoes seems to stem from their being too long. On the other hand, the next size down was not an option because it was clearly going to bash my toes on descents.

Poor fit: At my age, I should have known better.

I have the crux in 46. I love them, I tend to be pretty harsh on my sneakers and they've held up nicely so far. The crux is one of the few Scarpa shoes not made in Italy, they are made in China to keep costs down for retailers like REI. As far as sizing goes I'm a 46.5 in the Mont Blanc, 46.5in a Scarpa Climbing shoe and a 46 in the crux. I'm a 12.5 street shoe, 13 in some Nikes. Hope this helps

Reviving thread because it's here.

I have the Scarpa Crux, and have worn them for trips ranging from a 30 minute approach to a 3 hour approach. They probably have 10-15 hours of use. My question: does anyone get blisters on the back of their heels wearing these?

I started blistering 40 minutes into an approach recently, and still had to walk in 'em for 2 hours, not to mention the descent back to the car.

Is this an issue that will resolve itself once they're broken in? How long until these puppies broke in for you? Am I missing something re: shoes and blistering?

Thanks!

I've had two pairs. The current model and the one before. No blister.

They're my approach shoes and my wear-to-work-shoes (before changing into dress shoes).

I think you need different shoes.

dylan grabowski wrote:Reviving thread because it's here. I have the Scarpa Crux, and have worn them for trips ranging from a 30 minute approach to a 3 hour approach. They probably have 10-15 hours of use. My question: does anyone get blisters on the back of their heels wearing these? I started blistering 40 minutes into an approach recently, and still had to walk in 'em for 2 hours, not to mention the descent back to the car. Is this an issue that will resolve itself once they're broken in? How long until these puppies broke in for you? Am I missing something re: shoes and blistering? Thanks!

Try finishing the top laces to "lock" them tighter like this, it solved my heel lift in the crux:
sportsmed.co.nz/wp-content/…

A friend of mine got the Scarpa Gecko Guides (similar to the current Vitamin model, but the Gecko Guides are discontinued) and he had the same problem you do. I had used the same shoe for a LOT of mileage, and had never had that problem. I think it comes down to foot shape—he wears La Sportiva climbing shoes, which don't fit me at all, and I almost always wear Scarpa climbing shoes, which don't fit him at all.

That's funny. I wear La Sportiva climbing shoes (katana lace and TCs) and boots (Nepal and Batura) but and never had any luck finding a Scarpa shoe that fit other than the Crux.

Dylan, don't be a hero just get a different shoe.

Everything blisters my heels including the Crux so I use tape. I probably have over 100 miles in mine at this point. They are very soft laterally which means they are pretty sensitive but edge poorly. The Crux bruise my feet if I walk on stone for long distances (over 10 miles).