EDELWEISS Energy Arc 9.5 mm Sheath Failure

mountainhick wrote:Looking at possibly buying the edelweiss energy arc 70m. Any further troubles with this model these days?

I have that rope. Been using it for about 4 months. Maybe 15 days of use. Ice about 6 days, sport about 3 days (no falls, a few takes), I think I did use it for trad the first time out.

Only issue I had with it was it was super kinky for the first few days out. No further issues at this point.

Overall, I like the rope, it's my second edelweiss, I'd be interested to see how it holds up.

I have used that rope extensively, I think you just got a bad egg.

John Wilder wrote: i'm really curious on this particular failure- the black and yellow threads all failed in the same spots, but the red threads all stayed intact- bizarre, and i cant think of an explanation for it.

There have been numerous reports of similar experiences with different brands. The Petzl Zypher, specifically and only in the color red, is the most notorious example. The orange Petzl Dragonfly had problems too, but not the blue. Sterling has had problems with their red colored ropes as well. The only logical explanation I can think of is a manufacturing defect created by the manufacturer of the actual nylon-6 material, which could explain why some colors have a problem and not others. Honestly, I dont know how the nylon manufacturer creates different colors, but I assume a different color is a different batch which could explain a problem with one color (thus, one batch) and not other.

It appears others have had problems with the sheath as well.

rei.com/product/809387/edel…

I don't have pictures, but I've posted about my Edelweiss rope in another thread... mine immediately developed significant sheath frays all close together at two places on the rope. There was no damage or wear to the rope to cause it. My only explanation based on how the fray formed was that the manufacturer was splicing multiple strands of sheath thread simultaneously. There was different colored strands of nylon sticking out of the weave, all neatly trimmed, in an otherwise brand new and undamaged sheath, all at exactly the same spot on the rope. As if they paused the machine, changed out 3 or 4 spools at once, then resumed.

The damage to my rope stopped there, though. It has held up well since, except that it's a cable. All the same, I can see how this manufacturing practice could lead to weak spots in the sheath and cause core shots.

John Wilder wrote: the assumption that it is the sheath design that is the problem is most likely not the case for a variety of reasons. first- there are only so many sheath designs that work to create a dynamic rope- and this particular sheath design has been in use by Edelweiss for the better part of a decade (or longer, their ropes have had this pattern for as long as i can remember). second-all kernmantle ropes are made the same way for the most part. i'm really curious on this particular failure- the black and yellow threads all failed in the same spots, but the red threads all stayed intact- bizarre, and i cant think of an explanation for it. a bad air splice may account for one or two threads blowing, but not that many. corrosion or a sharp edge would have blown at least some of the red threads...really really odd core shot. did you return the rope to the manufacturer directly, or distributor or retailer? Depending on who you sent it back to, it may take a while to get to Edelweiss or it may not get there at all if the person handling returns doesnt think it warrants inspection. If i were Edelweiss, though, i'd want the batch # on that rope and that rope in hand ASAP.

Your comment on the colors appears to be a major clue. The red thread is running primarily along the axis of the rope, while the black and yellow are running primarily perpendicular. Something likely sliced the rope sheathing as it was being pulled (or slid through equipment) ,damaging black and yellow, but not red. This could have been from the manufacturer, too, but it's too curious that it's only in that one direction.