Anyone use the Scarpa Phantom Guide boots in Colorado?

Sure it's a bit premature, but I starting trying on boots yesterday. Tried on Scarpa Phantom Guide, Scarpa Mont Blanc, La Sportiva Nepal EVO, and the Salewa MS Pro Gaiter.

I've always seemed to fit Scarpas well, and in the past had two pair of Scarpa Feneys and a pair of Scarpa Alphas that served me well. This time was no different, and out of all the boots I tried, the Scarpa Phantom Guides were, hands down, the best fit. My only concern is would these boots be overkill for winter ice climbing out here in Colorado? I like to do longer, moderate alpine ice routes in the park, but also will be doing my fair share of 'roadside' cragging as well. Was kind of hoping to find a boot that I could also get away with using for spring alpine routes in the park with, but these would obviously be overkill for that, and would have to get a spring alpine boot late on. The other rationale is a climber with warm feet is a happy climber, and a happy climber (in my opinion) will have much more fun.

So if there's anyone that's used the Scarpa Phantom Guides here in Colorado I'd really appreciate your feedback and impressions of the boots performance here in the winter. Thanks!

Haven't used the guides, but I've used the Mont Blancs a lot. For me (and my cold cold toes) Mont Blancs are not enough for winter ice unless I am constantly moving, but they're great for Fall/Spring climbing.

I wanted to get a pair of the Guides or the 6000m to use as winter boots but opted for the Mammut Nordward instead (since it was on sale). I liked these boots quite a bit but the zipper on the gaiter often got stuck and/or the seems split from normal climbing stresses.

Ping my friend John here on MP. He's had them for a couple seasons and uses them in Vail for mixed cragging and in RMNP for alpine.

mountainproject.com/u/john-…

I intend to use these boots at Ouray for ice.

Last year, I climbed at Ouray in demo boots which were the Salewa Pro Gaiters. They were awesome to swing, but a little stiff. When I got home (WA), I ordered two pair - different sizes and also ordered a pair of Batura's. The Salewa's did nothing but hurt my feet that second day out in them :( So, I tried on the Batura's 2.0 gtx. They were better - especially because they had a bit of a flex in the front so approaches were good, but they still ripped up my feet on approach. Both boots climbed ice fabulously. So, with the thought that the Salewa's didn't work and the Baturas were close, Backcountry.com had a sale. So, I returned all the boots to them and bought the Phantom Guides. AWESOME. Fit my feet really well, good for approach and I'm very sure they will climb ice just fine. If you're gonna go winter with these boots, size them appropriately for a good thick mountaineering sock IMHO. I match them with a liner and Icebreaker Mountaineering sock and they are warm as possible. I took them on two Rainier trips and they were fabulous. The only thing I'd say about them in mountaineering vs. ice, they have a tendency where the gaiter can push down on one of the eyelets and cause pain in the front of the ankle. I believe that was really a fit problem for me - I either had it cinched down too much or not enough. Beside, these boots really aren't what I'd really like to do tons of Mountaineering in.

That being said, over two multi-day trips I NEVER had a problem drying them out - they weren't wet for my alpine start and only a little for the afternoon back at the car.

For ice, I bet you will find they are bomber. I plan to do some ice cragging on a glacier this weekend in them (not winter, mind you) and I'll let you know how they swing. I match them with a pair of Lynx crampons and so far so good.

For warmth? The integrated gaiter makes a huge difference - which also makes summer climbing a bit uncomfortable. They are a little less warm than the Batura's, I can tell. However they also seem to have a little more roomy toebox.

This is the boot that I feel is the most demoed at Ouray during the festival. While other manufacturers do bring their boots - It seems that Scarpa really pushes the Phantom Guide's at the festival and I've never heard a bad word from them.

For contrast, on the day I demoed the Salewa's, the night before the morning was in the -22F range and the morning was about -8F. The Salewa's were a little stiff at first and a bit cold, but after about 2 hrs of top roping ice, they were warm as can be and performed fabulously on WI5 for me. I expect no less from the Phantom Guides.

I assume you've read these (the best reviews I've read):
gearinstitute.com/climbing/…
gearthirty.blogspot.com/201…
coldthistle.blogspot.com/20…

I really WANTED to fit in the Batura's because I think they are a better boot, but the PG's fit me way better, ended up being on a huge sale and ultimately climb better than any single boot I've had.

And, I don't think they are overkill at all - I've climbed summer volcanoes in WA in them, so I'd think they'd be right in the sweet spot.

So, sorry I didn't have a review of Colorado in the Winter, but I thought my experience might help you out!

No they would not be over kill in CO. Several people I know climb in them in Oootah, myself included. I have used mine for ice as well as mttnerring. I like the integral gaitor. For a summer boot they can be a bit warm but not overly so. I have several pairs of the Scarpa line and like how they fit my fee. FWIW I have pair of the PG for sale (size 45).

"When I got home (WA), I ordered two pair - different sizes and also ordered a pair of Batura's." Damn dude...you must be rollin' in cash-money!!!

I've had the Nepal Evos for a couple years and I love them. From my (limited) experience, Scarpas work better for wider feet, and Sportivas are better for smaller, lower volume feet. Just got the Force-X climbing shoe and it is a little too wide for my heels...sticking with Sportivas from now on.

Can't say about Phantoms, but I climb in Spantiks which are 6000M boots as well. I don't find them an overkill here in SW Colorado. I can wear less clothes, but I'd rather have my feet warm. That being said, in the spring when days get warmer, I find it hard to motivate myself to put on big bulky boots to go for a pitch or two of ice - but that may also have to do with the fact that I climb every other if not every day starting early December... I'd love to get me a lighter boot/crampon combo for especially mixed climbing, but that's not my first priority right now.

Love my Phantoms. I used them this past season, from bitterly cold alpine days in the Park to warm cragging days at lower elevations. I really like the lower profile of the Phantom Guide, and they are still extremely warm-I never had an issue with cold toes even in the most frigid conditions.

That being said, I have a pair of Batura 2.0s in a 45 that I'm looking to unload- only worn once, asking $500

Ben, not loaded for cash, just understand return policies well.

Backcountry.com as an online retailer has a very flexible return policy which is very useful for items that may have a difficult fit - such as boots. They take returns no questions asked and only charge a $6 restocking fee - and they pay for the shipping to send it back.

Ultimately, I only ended up keeping one pair of boots out of the 4 pairs I bought. Which I feel like is very reasonable. So, yes - I spent a bunch on boots but at the end, I paid like $440 for the Scarpa Phantom Guides during one of their 20% off sales. - I feel like I scored, honestly.

And Ben - I totally agree with you. I don't have LARGE feet, but I do have FLAT feet which made the wider boot (Scarpa) much better for me.

Scott,

Not sure what size you wear, but I'm looking to sell my men's size 46 Phantom Guides here.

I climb in the Northeast and they are a phenomenal boot, hands down. the ONLY reason I'm looking to sell mine is because my feet run cold in the winter, so I purchased a pair of the Phantom 6000's.

If your interested, shoot me an offer :-)