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Is 8' high enough for an interesting home wall?

Original Post
jonathan.lipkin · · Brooklyn, NY · Joined Dec 2012 · Points: 70

I'm thinking of building a wall in a basement with 8' ceilings. The basement is fairly large, and I could put it in a corner with 12'of wall running on each side, for a total of 24'. But, since I can basically touch the ceiling after one foot hold, the climbing is going to be mostly traversing. Even if I overhang it 45 degrees, I'll only get a few moves up, and most of the movement will be side to side. It's at a location where I'll be for most of the summer, and there is no outdoor climbing, and the nearest gym is a two hour drive, so this will be mostly it for my access to climbing. Are there reasonably interesting traverses that can be set, do you think? I was thinking of having 12' of vertical walls, for my kids, then overhanging 12' for myself.

Evan Sanders · · Westminster, CO · Joined Dec 2010 · Points: 140

Overhang at 50-55 degrees and add a footboard. That will give you plenty of room to make things interesting.

Paul Gagner · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Oct 2007 · Points: 228

My home wall is 8'. Varying, super steep angles. Sit starts get you a couple moves up. Lots of cool traverses and other things to do. Way better than the alternative some time, which is not climbing or driving to the gym. I'd build it in a heartbeat.

Rob Gordon · · Hollywood, CA · Joined Feb 2009 · Points: 115

I would just build a training wall. Unless there is just nothing to climb around you not even a gym.

William Sonoma · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Dec 2012 · Points: 3,550

8ft is plenty! I have 3 walls at my place, 2 indoors and I have 9ft ceilings. My primary wall is 8ft x 13ft with 4 cracks built in. Because my focus is pushing my limits on multi-pitch trad my main "traverse" wall is slightly overhanging varying between 2 different angles. Its not terribly overhanging because I use this wall as my "technique" wall and where I knock out my long endurance sessions. I have bolts and anchors installed so I can practice clipping (5.10 hold + clip and extend alpine draw, 5.11 hold + clip and extend draw, etc), self rescue, rope management to include lap coiling, etc plus anchors.

My other wall is 10ft long, severely overhanging and I use that wall for power/strength, anaerobic endurance, etc.

Set up as many 1-2 move (vertical) routes/combinations as possible on the 8ft wall. Set routes purposely to concentrate/connect with/work on left hand, right hand, foot placement/accuracy, etc.

Its totally worth it to build. Use your imagination, be creative and tailor the wall TO YOU and your goals/desires. Example: I have 2 "flakes"/corner cracks, 1 vertical thin hands crack and 1 vertical finger crack. Why? Because I am an aspiring crack climber so in my traverse wall I have variety, but variety with purpose.

Enjoy!

William Sonoma · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Dec 2012 · Points: 3,550

Can you put in a roof crack? What about a roof? So vertical, 90deg turn, 2-3ft roof, 90deg turn to vertical again. Build a corner?

Frame in your ceiling to climb there/maximize your space.

What about a combination of features strung together?

Don't put limits on your imagination, let it go and create!

Jonathan Marek · · Spearfish, SD · Joined Sep 2009 · Points: 2,497

1. Avoid building vertical climbing space. The actual angle of the wall depends on you, but all your space should be overhanging.
1.a. Kickers

2. Avoid inside corners. In fact just build one long line if possible with two or three different angles.

3. I like having a 2x4 in the studs that i grab as top out jugs and don't hesitate to add roof sections.

4. It is MUCH EASIER and MORE FUN to build VOLUMES to add space and dimension to your home wall. The key is having one continuous flat space to put them on.

5. Put as many t-nuts in your wall as possible. Dead T-nuts are a pain to replace so i just tape them off any use another.

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

General Climbing
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