climbing wall with real rocks

I've got lots of extra lumber and a large barn. Would like to make some sort of climbing area but want to use real rocks. Anyone ever done this? I'm thinking that I'd have to have a certain type of rock and a counter sunk hole in it. I'd also like to make a few crack routes with longer, skinny flat rocks. Am I just being silly or is it possible? Any experts?

hammer drill and the right size bit and you'll be good to go. I've used jug sized rocks in the past of different rock types without issue. for the crack idea you'll need more than one bolt pre rock and that could be tricky to line up with a predrilled pattern.

be wary of rock fall ... seriously ...

I've done it plenty (200+ drilled rocks). The hardness of the stone REALLY matters. In bluestone (type of grainy shale) you don't even need any hammer action, just a good carbide masonry bit in a 3/8" drill. I like sedimentary rock because it often cleaves to leave a flat side. Granite can be a real challenge esp. if there's quartz crystals in it. I've also had real trouble with some limestone. Uneven sides can be made level with some epoxy puttly. Be aware that if the barn is unheated, the holds will be very cold in the winter.

that will be really cool! Post pictures please

Anyone here remember the old Petrogrips made from real rock? Haven't seen them offered for sale for years now but I love them - we have quite a few of them at our climbing wall.

Ever considered just going outside?

You could probably use pieces of granite or other rock without flat sides by using a masonry cutoff wheel. This would make a flat side and you could easily make something that could be bolted down flat to a climbing wall.

Chris Rice wrote:Anyone here remember the old Petrogrips made from real rock? Haven't seen them offered for sale for years now but I love them - we have quite a few of them at our climbing wall.

I believe these are the same thing: synrockholds.com/

The LCP climbing gym in Fayetteville, AR has a bunch of natural holds they are pretty sweet.

You could buy the cultured stone or real veneer stones they sell at your local masonry supply, that way you wouldn't have to flatten out the backs. You could probably just bond them to your wall with a thinset mortar to keep from having to drill holes in them, course then you'd have to beat them off with a hammer & chisel to reset.

You could also make holds out of wood. I don't think I've ever gotten pumped faster than when climbing on wood holds. Just cut the shape you want, sand it smooth and you're good to go. Sorry for the thread drift, just wanted to throw another idea in the mix!

Real rocks are a nice feature. Out of necessity they'll be med-large to large holds. Expect some to shatter. Sometimes best to use 3 bits to avoid shattering: 1/4, 5/16 then 3/8". I couldn't be bothered with counter-sinking. Too much time and greater chance of shatter. Apply layers of protective tape over hex-head when concerned about those sharp edges.

Start with rocks that have one reasonably flat (or flatter) side while avoiding those with cracks and get busy w/ roto-hammer drill. The bits will blow-out the back of the grips and make an irregular surface that will help keep holds from spinning. Skip the wet tile or masonry saw for reasons too numerous to mention...unless you own a saw capable of 6" cutting depth. After initial install of all holds, re-tighten all after a few months as ply-wood dries/compresses.

Wood holds are slippery and get more slippery. OK for 'wrappers' but slopers, no thanks. Oak holds are good for axe picks but not my tender flesh.

I drilled out a dozen limestone holds a few years ago; they broke easily and didn't last long.

Giving up on that idea, I made a hundred or so out of fiberglass resin. Sculpt a foam prototype and make a mold; you can pour multiple holds in a relatively short span of time.

I've been told by a hold-shaper I know that fiberglass resin holds break easily, but I've yet to break anything aside from smaller foot jibs. Most have seen heavy use for three years now.

Like Ross mentioned, Richard at LCP (La Casa Pollo) in Fayetteville, AR used a lot of natural sandstone rocks as holds (mainly on his outdoor walls). If I remember right, most of the ones he used were about 6-8" diameter and he attached them as screw-ons rather than bolt-on holds. 3-5 screws per hold? Makes sense to me that this method would be less prone to breaking the holds and would be a good idea when dealing with softer stones (as opposed to something like granite)

Check eBay, there are natural holds listed there often.

I'm thinking of making my own as well, but I also have a large supply of rock scraps at work plus rotary hammers and 14" demo saws...

I've seen a few walls where people glued real rocks to a concrete wall and it was super bomber. It's also permanent and you can't change the holds out but could be a good way to put in small holds for feet and crimps.

I work with stone and the best way to go is find some larger size stones, and cut a flat face on the back and drill a hole (preferbly countersunk) into it. Lots of the stone will break when drilling so get some extras. If you're in the MA area Ill cut some stone for you at my shop!

Travis Dustin wrote:I work with stone and the best way to go is find some larger size stones, and cut a flat face on the back and drill a hole (preferbly countersunk) into it. Lots of the stone will break when drilling so get some extras. If you're in the MA area Ill cut some stone for you at my shop!

I figured I would drill, then cut when possible. Would save a blown out back of the stone, if nothing else. We tend to have scraps of salvaged granite curbing laying around, so it would be the perfect size.

Hey everyone still interested in real rock holds,

the gym mentioned above, LCP actually produces these natural holds and sells them from the gym, They have also reworked many of the indoor roped walls to be 100% real rock! You can still find them in the bouldering room as well, their really everywhere!

If you have problems with breakage using a hammer-drill, consider using a diamond hole bit similar to this ( lowes.com/pd_511345-28303-1… )
And if you are cutting stone with a grinder, I would suggest getting a diamond blade for that as well. You will want to do a wet cut to keep the heat down; this will make the bit last a lot longer.