Ice Climbing near Keene, NH

I'm interested in planning an ice climbing outing for a group of teens and adults but realized I know nothing about ice climbing in or around Keene, NH. Could someone answer the following questions for me? It would be a huge help.

1) When's the ice season in southwestern NH (or surrounding areas)? What time of year can the ice generally be considered reliable?
2) What are some ice climbing locations around Keene that would be appropriate for a group of first time climbers? Ideally within about an hour from Keene.
3) What GOOD guide and gear rental services exist for ice climbing in the area? Safety is my top priority, so I'm interested in hiring certified guides and using appropriate modern equipment only.

I realize there might not actually be any good ice climbing options (that would enable us to rent gear, hire a guide, AND climb locally), but any info you can give is helpful. Thanks!

Mike Donofrio at Vertical World Adventures guides ice climbing groups in Keene throughout the winter, has been for years.
verticalworldadventures.com
508-344-6776

Check out Mooney Moutain Guides:

mooneymountainguides.com/

Enjoy!

Thanks guys!

Sometimes the ice comes in around the beginning of December. January thru March is the safest time to plan a trip.

Since you're hiring a guide they will know where to take you. Chapel Pond canyon or Pitchoff is a great spot to start. If you guys pick up the techinque by the end try and get to RoaringBrook Falls. That may be a struggle if there's more than two of you. Beware of the weekends as the most of the toprope spots close to a parking lot will be crowded. If weekends are a must....Meet the guide early! Other ice climbers will enjoy the fact you beat them to the crag and set up a toprope on something for most of the day.

Ian Osteyee owns Adirondack Mountain Guides. I've used him more times than I can think of right now. Both summer and winter... I have a great time every time I've hired him.

Edit.. I just read the letters NH. I thought you were asking about Keene NY. Sorry! After rereading the post I can't I missed what state you're in.

Good luck with your trip!

You'll find the greatest concentration of guides in the Conway area including IMCS, EMS, and a bunch of independants.

The most reliable conditions form just after Christmas through mid March, although early season (stuff is already being climbed) and late season options exist.

Conway is 2 1/2 hours from Keene. Keene's closest good ice is in the Baker River drainage, which includes the Rumney area.

Thanks guys.

I've had awesome experiences with the North Conway EMS Climbing School but the three hour trek from Keene isn't doable for the group I'm working with. I talked to one of the EMS Climbing School managers but he wasn't super familiar with the guide services this far south and says his own guides stick to North Conway and the Whites primarily and won't come this far. I haven't checked with IME, but I don't imagine they'd travel either, especially when they have so much good stuff to work with in their own backyard.

There's actually good ice climbing right in town and at a few other local spots (good for beginners anyway), I just don't have the gear or expertise to outfit and lead a trip myself.

Thanks again for the help. I think I'll be able to work something out.

Hi Kari,
I'm not sure if you figured out your guide situation yet, but I stumbled upon your post. I own a guide service based out of North Central Mass about 40 minutes south of keene. We offer programs anywhere we are allowed to by the land managers. Check out our website at northridgemountainguides.com and feel free to contact me with any questions.
-Jamie

Hi Kari,
Just outside of Keene, going north on Route 12, there is a pull over just before Cushing and Sons. If you park there you can hike back to an old rail road track where there are a bunch of routes I used to climb with my friends during the winter. None of it more then 20 ft high IIRC but easy to setup multiple top routes and the ice is usually quite nice. I haven't climbed there in years since I have moved but I used to live 5 minutes from there and it was a great way to spend a few hours in a Saturday practicing and hanging out with friends. Let me know if you or your friends want to meet up. I have lost contact with my old climbing buddy but have been dying to get back out and start climbing again.

Good luck!
Dan