Indian Creek - Camping and Climbing Advice

I am getting ready for my first trip to Indian Creek. After living in the SE for the better part of a decade, I am psyched to go to Utah and climb on amazing splitters for a few days!

I have been researching where to camp, and it seems that there are a ton of options. It also appears that things are changing and that some of the campsites that were free now require fees. I want to have a good experience, so I am asking for input from folks who have been there. I will be arriving on 5/23 and departing on 5/27 or 28 (Memorial Day Weekend).

I am considering Superbowl site. Is this a good choice?

I will be arriving around 10 PM on a Wednesday. Assuming that I stay at Superbowl, will I have any issues finding the place and finding an available site?

I don't need amenities and have a 4WD. What other areas would you recommend?

Other than basic LNT, what issues should I be aware of while camping in IC?

What are the best crags for a first-time IC visitor? I am happy to hit Donnelly and Supercrack, but am open to advice on other areas with lots of moderate hand cracks. I have no problem with a longer approach if the climbing is good.

Any other advice from folks with IC experience would be appreciated.

Thanks in advance for your help!

I was down there at the beginning of April and stayed in a site at Bridger Jack campground with 6 people. We didn't check out any of the other campgrounds but, were very impressed with bridger jack.

Pros:
-Free
-Huge campsites (plenty of room for 3 tents, 2 cars and room for cooking, sitting, etc)
-Beautiful view
-Somewhat private (we didn't have a direct line of sight from our site to others).
-Outhouse at the entrance (driving distance, not walking if you have to go!)
-Seemed like it's closest to supercrack, donnely, optimator, way rambo, a couple others.
-Firepit
-Tons of flat ground for tents

Cons:
-4WD recommended (the road going in is.... bouncy)
-Easy to miss the turn off in the dark if you've never been there.
-Need to drive to get to the outhouse (or walk a good distance)

I'm sure others on the forum will have more experience with other campsites. Have fun in the creek, my first trip was amazing and I'm already planning another!

I was just there a few weeks back after a long absence (15 years), so I think I can address your questions...

Superbowl: it's adequate - not the best camping in the desert - but it works - and there is a nice toilet facility, which is a plus. I assume on a wed night you will have no trouble finding a spot. It is an unmarked turn right before Davis Canyon - if you get to the road for Davis - you went about a 1/4 mile to far.

There is also good camping up the Beef Basin Road if Superbowl is full, we saw some sites on the way to Way Rambo.

Check out the Selfish Wall and also Way Rambo. Bring lots of green, red gold and blue sized Camelots. Have fun !!!

Climb in the shade if its sunny - Donnelly will fry almost all day.

May is hot and you want to be under the cottonwoods in camp.

Look at the map in your guidebook and identify shady walls. Consider taking a nice long siesta with a big meal and climbing mostly morning and evening.

have shoes you a)dont care about trashing and b) have your toes completely flat. If you only have sport or tight trad shoes, I'd highly recommend picking up a used pair for the desert. Tight foot jams can be excruciatingly painful if your toes are knuckled out. If you are bringing mythos (or anything with laces down to the toes), bring extra laces.

don't dig catholes, use the outhouses around the valley. expect to get 4-5 pitches in a day, tops.

I personally hate camping at bridger jacks, the drive in and out every single day blows. maybe I just like my car too much to subject it to that. Cottonwoods (out by way rambo) is probly the best camping in the creek, but there are only 7 or so spots. Stake your tent down well and throw the fly up every day even if there isnt going to be any rain. huge windstorms can come up and either rip your tent out of the ground or fill it with sand (hence the fly).

have fun, its an amazing place!

Rob Dillon wrote:May is hot and you want to be under the cottonwoods in camp. Look at the map in your guidebook and identify shady walls. Consider taking a nice long siesta with a big meal and climbing mostly morning and evening.

Remember that Reservoir Wall is closed due to Cliff Chickens... until Fall. I say this cus its an obvious choice for people looking for shade.... which you will want. Mid 90's by next week.

Thanks for all the replies!

I read your TR, Matt. It is very cool! All the pics and your description got me even more excited about the trip.

Thank for all the other advice about campsites, shoes, gear, closed areas and shade.

It looks like part of Supercrack, Rambo and Blue Gramma are in the shade in the morning. A lot of others are south facing. Any suggestions on what routes and walls are shaded / north facing?

Poop in a bag, or in the outhouses.

End of may will be hot, bring plenty of water at least a gallon per day per person. You should have no problem getting campsites since you are getting there mid week and it will be the hotter season.

I visited I.C. a few weeks ago, for the first time. I was happy climbing when it was like 55 or 60 degrees and breezy. If it were 85, I'd die out there. Bring a ton of water. There's no where to get water unless you drive out of the Creek and into Montecello or Moab. We camped at Superbowl, and felt it was pretty reasonable. Bring a SHITLOAD of cams. On Supercrack, I placed like 6 #3 camalots. You'll want at least that many of any size for anything you do.

Check out Blue Gramma cliff. There's some 5.9s and 5.10s that will give you a good idea of how your endurance is. If you're over there, do Petrelli Motors. Really fun fingers.

All in all, prepare to be exhausted (fully beat down) after a couple good days in a row.

Superbowl is my favorite camp spot. The Cottonwoods are a little nicer but you gotta pack out your shit there. The drive is a bit longer (time wise) and dirt road - if its all wash boarded out it might get annoying.to get to most of the crags - unless your climbing up in Cottonwood - which isn't a bad idea - though you might get scorched next week. Driving from the Superbowl is all paved road and pretty easy. Selfish wall someone mentioned has a lot of shorter moderates and you can chase shade there. Super Crack is shady in the first part of the day - and the obvious choice if you haven't been to The Creek before. Optimator wall has good afternoon shade and you get to experience the Bridger jacks camp road. Check out the Meat Wall (2ed per the guide book). Have fun, bring your own firewood and don't skimp on water.

Awesome info! Thanks!

Glad this thread came up, thanks for the info.

Since others are reading this, I am going to post a very informative e-mail that I received from another MP member in response to my post. There is a lot of great info here. Enjoy!

"Hi,
There are a lot of good places to camp. Please be SURE to check out the Friends Of Indian Creek site and camp in a legally marked area. Please keep it clean.
As far as climbing goes, you will want shade. Memorial Day is a time when IC is like Mecca. F' Supercrack and Donnelly. For that matter F' Blue Gramma.
Anything you've heard people raving about isn't necessarily any better than anything else, it's just more popular.
Pick a nice wall in the shade if you can, that has a lot of climbs at the grade you want and go there. Be flexible about what routes you want to do - get on the ones that are open, don't wait for what you "picked in advance" and ruin your trip by feeling put out by lines and what not. You are going to have a great time no matter what you get on, provided you get on something.
Sparks Wall, 4*4 wall, Technicolor (which has many dihedrals in the shade, actually) will all be much better choices than some of the "classics" provided you don't want to get involved in a shit-show.
Also, Hamburger Rock is a reasonable campground with nice facilities, including large rocks, small trees, tables and toilets if you can afford $12 per night between the 2-4 of you, or however many... and don't want to deal with too many other people crowding you, doing stupid bullshit stuff, or camping on poop and paper."