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Reno Winter Climbing

Original Post
JF1 · · Idaho · Joined Jan 2011 · Points: 400

Hello all,
My girlfriend is looking at jobs and might be getting a cool job in Reno for a little while. I would be rolling in October through April, what is the climbing like at that point? Does much of the classic stuff get snowed in the area? I have little to know knowledge of the area.

I work at the City of Rocks in Idaho for the season and love trad, but sport and boulder as well.

W L · · NEVADASTAN · Joined Mar 2010 · Points: 851

If you're living in the Reno area over a normal winter (read: not this winter), then anticipate the following:

Sugarloaf will be your best bet for trad all winter, with the exception of immediately following snowstorms

Phantom Spires and Lovers Leap will be in season at either end of your stay

The Washoe Boulders will be good to go the entire duration (in Carson City, 35 mins South of Reno)

The Sommersett Boulders will be good to go the entire duration

River Rock and Dinosaur Rock should both be good to go at certain times of day (not much, but a nice place to move over stone)

Much of Donner Summit should still be climbable when you arrive, however, if there is an early snow it may be shut down. Black Wall is known to be climbable at various times throughout your timeframe.

I believe Big Chief may be climbable as well, although I have never climbed there...not much of a sport guy myself.

You will also be 3 1/2 hours from Bishop during that time, which means the Owens River Gorge, Buttermilks, Happy/Sad Boulders, and Pine Creek all within that same distance.

Being here and being a climber doesn't suck, if you want any more particulars feel free to contact me.

Patrick Mulligan · · Reno, NV · Joined Oct 2011 · Points: 1,010

Reno is a cool little town. I moved to Reno 10 years ago from Vegas and while it took a while to adjust to this city, I love this place. Access to climbing, skiing, mountain biking, kayaking, camping, and any other physical outdoor activity you can think of is great. The location gives you four seasons but with access to climbing and warmer weather easily 3.5 hours to the south. The city is getting better as far as food and culture choices are concerned, but it is in a slump (you'd be moving to the state with the country's highest unemployment). This may be something to consider if you're moving here and would be looking for work.

Donner is climbable right now and I'll be climbing there today. You have to walk through and start some climbs from snow, but much of the rock is dry. Pick up the Locals Guide to North Tahoe and you'll find crags in there lining route 89 that are currently dry and climbable.

Much of the stuff in South Lake that Weston Suggested (Spires, Leap, etc) will be totally open although I've heard some stuff at the Leap is wet. Pie Shop is totally dry and should be very warm in current conditions.

In the same North Tahoe guide is an area called Iron Butte that is totally worth a visit and can be very warm right now with a couple of classic trad routes (The Wall).

Good luck with your decision.

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Nevada
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