Harnesses with elastic leg loops

So I've become too skinny for my harness (I've lost 50#) and need to get a new one. I'm seeing a lot of the newer models using elastic for the leg loops. I'm wondering how safe this is.

I would have to think that over time the elastic would stretch out and then not be as secure. Thoughts?

Thanks for the input.

I've seen harnesses over the years with a small stretch of elastic on the leg loops that gives a couple inches for a snug fit, without making it an adjustable legloop harness. Those leg loop buckles can dig in sometimes and may not be as comfy as non buckled.
My problem of late is that back ass piece of elastic that is supposed to keep the loops up tight over your ass. They either are non-adjustable ones, or get stretched out so loose when you climb they need constant tightening.
And for a third piece of elastic, I do like the waist belt 'keeper' elastic velcro connection that makes buckling up alot easier. Any other harness elastic to include?

Ben B. wrote:...I'm just trying to figure out why this is an improvement over adjustable straps

Weight, man! Shave off the weight of those buckles and you can climb a full number grade harder. /sarcasm

I'm not even sure that the leg loops really have anything to do with the safety of a harness. If you're wearing a harness correctly, you shouldn't come out of it with or without leg loops.

I suppose they spread the force of a fall so that it's not all hitting your lower back. And, of course, they make it more comfortable to hang in a harness. But, even if the leg loops snapped, I don't think there's any real reduction in safety. At least not in the moment of that fall as the force would still be spread across the leg loops and absorbed to a large degree by the snapping of the loops.

Can anyone think of any other way the leg loops factor into the safety of a harness?

There's still a piece of webbing that runs parallel to the elastic that's structural...it wouldn't break.

And as far as comfort, if they fit you correctly they're way more comfortable than adjustable leg loops. It allows them to be snug enough to be comfortable when you fall but have enough give that they're not digging into your thighs the rest of the time. I love my BD Chaos.

Ben B. wrote:I'm just trying to figure out why this is an improvement over adjustable straps

Well if you adjust the elastic rear riser straps so the leg loops sit where they should behind your thigh, as the elastic in the front gives a sung fit that still adjusts for layers and particularly stepping up and especially high stepping, they are MUCH more comfortable than the adjustable loops that don't give.

Correct me if I'm wrong, but a harness dosnt rely on the leg loops for it's strength. They are more or less to keep you upright when you fall? I have two arcteryx harnesses and they both have very little on the leg loops, and I assure you I have taken several significant falls with no complications. Unless your talking about the elastic that connects the leg loop to the belt? In that case I don't see your concern?

Last Thanksgiving in Joshua Tree I hopped on "Leave it to Beaver" at dusk. I bouldered up the beginning difficulties, made it to the chalk-and-rubber-caked finger crack, and then threw an all points off dyno to the best hand jam of my life... shortly after, I realized there was no way I could keep climbing past that point and dropped.

I found myself hanging oddly from the rope and looked down to find I had only tied in through the leg loops. Needless to say I was glad that part of the harness was load bearing, and I'll never make that mistake again!

Ever since the origin of the built in belay loop, that at least connects you to your main waist harness if a tie in error occurs. I added a short dogbone runner to some old harnesses that I loan out for friends, just to be sure all is linked together nicely.

Ben B. wrote:For my own personal purposes, a non-adjustable leg loop on a harness is no bueno, elasticized or not. I have one Adjama that I use for everything from summer rock to winter alpine. But if the harness is going to be dedicated, and you like the idea of snug loops, then I don't see how it can hurt anything. So what's it gonna be fo', OP?

I switched from an Adjama to Mammut Togir Light harness with fixed leg loops. The fixed leg loops with elastic have enough slack to accommodate a lot of additional clothing and even crampons. Ignoring the minuscule weight savings I find the leg loops more comfortable and require less attention/maintenance than an adjustable model. I use the harness for summer rock climbing in shorts and winter mountaineering/ice climbing.

Dylan Weldin wrote:Last Thanksgiving in Joshua Tree I hopped on "Leave it to Beaver" at dusk. I bouldered up the beginning difficulties, made it to the chalk-and-rubber-caked finger crack, and then threw an all points off dyno to the best hand jam of my life... shortly after, I realized there was no way I could keep climbing past that point and dropped. I found myself hanging oddly from the rope and looked down to find I had only tied in through the leg loops. Needless to say I was glad that part of the harness was load bearing, and I'll never make that mistake again!

Are my eyes playing tricks on me, or is that figure 8 seriously lacking some tail? If so, I think tying into the leg loops was not the most dangerous aspect of that fall.

Rob Gordon wrote: Are my eyes playing tricks on me, or is that figure 8 seriously lacking some tail? If so, I think tying into the leg loops was not the most dangerous aspect of that fall.

Weird camera angle... it's at least two hand-widths wide

Dylan Weldin wrote:Last Thanksgiving in Joshua Tree I hopped on "Leave it to Beaver" at dusk. I bouldered up the beginning difficulties, made it to the chalk-and-rubber-caked finger crack, and then threw an all points off dyno to the best hand jam of my life... shortly after, I realized there was no way I could keep climbing past that point and dropped. I found myself hanging oddly from the rope and looked down to find I had only tied in through the leg loops.

To borrow a line from John Houseman... "Here's a dime. Go call your mother and tell her you're too stupid to be rock climbing".

:-)

Crag Dweller wrote: I'm not even sure that the leg loops really have anything to do with the safety of a harness. If you're wearing a harness correctly, you shouldn't come out of it with or without leg loops. I suppose they spread the force of a fall so that it's not all hitting your lower back. And, of course, they make it more comfortable to hang in a harness. But, even if the leg loops snapped, I don't think there's any real reduction in safety. At least not in the moment of that fall as the force would still be spread across the leg loops and absorbed to a large degree by the snapping of the loops. Can anyone think of any other way the leg loops factor into the safety of a harness?

If the leg loops didn't factor into the safety, you'd probably see a lot more cheap swamis at the cliffs.

Without the leg loops, hanging in the harness will severely restrict your breathing. The waist belt would ride up & block the operation of your rib cage & diaphragm. You can deal with this while conscious, but if you are knocked out you will survive only a short time.

I have heard of the elastic on leg loops stretching out over time, resulting in a less tight fit. It wouldn't affect the safety of the harness in any way, however.

Thanks for the input everyone.