Tea Town, Westchester County Boulders

If you are in the Westchester County/ Ossining New York area, check it out. There are a ton of really fun grippy rock problems all around the pond. My friend and I have been cleaning it up. We have developed three obvious problems. As you come down the path from the building, they are to the left. The first is a face climb. The rock on this is pretty sharp. Dan cut his finger pretty badly the first time around. We call it Lyposuction For Lunch. This is a sit start, about 10 feet. Its about V3. The second is a little triangle that it about 5-6 feet. Sit start with one heel aroung the arete and the other on an obvious foot. Push up with both hands on the aretes. If you can take it from here, go for it, but I am not that tall. I had to lock both sides with my heels. Then I went to the corner at the top. I really liked it. It a V1+. I called it Triangle. Creative. Then there is my favorite. It is a long traverse. Its the only problem in this area that I actually thought felt hard. It is pumpy. Start at the left of the long rock, the small end. STAY LOW. You won't be able to take it all the way the top. Its also harder lower. Move from the start crimps to a sloper and then to an edge and to some other crimps. Follow bigger holds for the rest. Don't overthink the feet. I would call it V4-4+. I just got the FA today. Dan wanted to call it Golden Problem. He really likes it. I'll go with that.

I'll talk more about the other areas later.
If you go, go easy on chalk. This is a park and people generally dislike white rocks. I like chalk, but Dan works there and doesn't want to get fired.

If you walk down the path about 2 minutes, you'll find yourself in a rocky area. Look up the hill away from the pond and you will see a bigish boulder. It is probably 12 to 15 feet. One climb starts at the sloper, an obvious start, and then moves up to slap a side sloper. Hand foot match and hop to the next big sloper. You can stand comfortably on the start hold. Find feet and go for the top out. This is probably V2. Next to it, to the left, is another problem. It is much harder. Sit start on the sloper and move up to the crimp. Go with your left hand to the side sloper. Use the finger crack to top out. It is probably V4-.

In the first place I talked about there is another climb on the side of the face climb V3. It is a lay back on a crack that is about 10 feet. It is V0. I did it in hiking boots the first time I saw the boulders. It is fun though.

Are you referring to the nature center or the Cliffdale visitor center? There are 2 lots with buildings and each lot is by a lake/pond. Also, I don't think you need to provide move my move beta. If anything maybe where it starts, where it ends and the grade you believe it is

Noah,

It sounds like you are psyched on a new bouldering area. Kudos for putting in some work and also encouraging people to keep their impact as low as possible.

The idea behind Mountain Project is to give people an opportunity to post up about climbing areas and to share knowledge. I'd encourage you to take pictures and submit these areas in the correct region of the New York page. People will actually see the submissions there, but this forum post will get buried within a few days.

To RockinOut,
It is the nature center. Sorry about giving the beta. I'm just excited.

To Ryan Williams,
Thanks!

This stuff has almost certainly been picked over years ago, and from what I remember it's mostly tiny and chossy. It gets neglected because there are better opportunities in the area (Ice Pond!). Access is also probably a bit off given that it is a popular, manned nature preserve.

If anyone wants beta on some larger Westchester bouldering spots, PM me and I'll hook you up under the condition it doesn't get listed anywhere, as access is in the same gray area where the rock is on public land, but it's unclear how the land managers feel about bouldering.

None of it is particularly good, and in fact there's pretty much nothing that I've come across yet (out of 30+ public open spaces) that I'd recommend to someone who lives outside the Lower Hudson Valley. (I'm happy to share with anyone regardless of locale, locals only attitudes are bullshit, but you'd have to really have a lowball choss fetish). The places to go for a bouldering day trip in Southern NY are the Gunks, Ice Pond and Harriman.

Alright.

Be kind.

giants98954 wrote: This stuff has almost certainly been picked over years ago, and from what I remember it's mostly tiny and chossy. It gets neglected because there are better opportunities in the area (Ice Pond!). Access is also probably a bit off given that it is a popular, manned nature preserve. If anyone wants beta on some larger Westchester bouldering spots, PM me and I'll hook you up under the condition it doesn't get listed anywhere, as access is in the same gray area where the rock is on public land, but it's unclear how the land managers feel about bouldering. None of it is particularly good, and in fact there's pretty much nothing that I've come across yet (out of 30+ public open spaces) that I'd recommend to someone who lives outside the Lower Hudson Valley. (I'm happy to share with anyone regardless of locale, locals only attitudes are bullshit, but you'd have to really have a lowball choss fetish). The places to go for a bouldering day trip in Southern NY are the Gunks, Ice Pond and Harriman.

Sorry to reopen this tread but I am just getting into the whole bouldering scene in westchester and would love to know if you would be able to send those spots you mentioned. I promise they won’t get posted anywhere Im just running out of places to go!