Closest Climbing To Austin

Hey all,
So it looks like i'm going to be leaving Utah and moving to Austin this August. For the last 3 years i've lived in Utah and had American Fork, both the Cotton Woods, Moab, and Joe's Valley all less than two hours away. I'm a little nervous that there won't be any climbing easily accesible from Austin. I've looked at the climbing areas for texas but it's hard to tell where these places are in relation to Austin.
What climbing areas are located within 2 hours of Austin? I saw Reimer's ranch already. What other areas are close by?

Greenbelt is within 10 minutes of downtown, there is some cool bouldering there, some polished routes across a few different sectors, it's okay, i'd give it a C+.

Reimer's Ranch is about 45 minutes out of town, depending on where you live, this place has great, short-ish sport routes.

Enchanted rock has good Bouldering and some good trad on course crystaline granite. expect moderate slabby multipitch and some tough single pitch trad lines up to 5.14. 2 hours from Austin in hill country.

Pace Bend and other parts of the river systems have DWS and some bouldering for the hot summer months.

Bull Creek is a cool little bouldering spot for after work burns.

7 hour drive to Potrero. There is another great place along the Rio Grande, can't remember the name of supposedly good sport routes that is closed half the year for hunting.

Hueco is still 10 hours away or something like that, but flights are probably cheap.

Also, and I'm speaking from experience. Texas has more N00bs than anywhere I've ever been (i know i know I was new to the sport once too, but still). Expect to see some truly astounding feats of uneducated hubris ( i think part of it is a Texas go-for it mentality). I'm 3/3 seeing people deck at Reimer's (I visit family annually) but partially my mistake for warming up on beginner's walls.

Get ready for hot hot summer heat, beautiful women, and Lonestar beer. Bring your guitar, it's a pretty cool place.

I'm not speaking from experience here, but from what I've heard Germsauce is exactly right. Also, quite a bit of rock on private land so meet the locals...lots of climbing at night when the temps are down in the double digits and you're less likely to get shot by the landowner.

www.bloodyflapper.com
erockonline.com/

EDIT: Just checked and looks like the e-rock site is down, it was up and running a few years ago, not sure what happened.

erockonline.com/forum/uploa…?

^^^ This one works. I grew up climbing in Austin and see that germsauce has said it all.

Pros: Best urban climbing I've encountered (some people get a few pitches in during their lunch break)
Year round options
Awesome natural spring to cool off in after summer days in the triple digits

Cons: Polish
Long way to Colorado

germsauce wrote: Enchanted rock has good Bouldering and some good trad on course crystaline granite. expect moderate slabby multipitch and some tough single pitch trad lines up to 5.14. 2 hours from Austin in hill country.

Just curious, what are the 5.14 trad lines? I recall hearing years ago that Clayton had freed that old aid line on the Acid Boulder, but not much else. When I used to go to Erock a lot, I don't recall even hearing about many 5.13 lines there.

Driving directions

maps.google.com -
Austin, TX
Lawton, OK

6 hours 1 min(s)
354.9 mi - I-35 N

That's all real helpful. Thanks guys. That greenbelt looks really cool. As I'll be in law school during my stay in Austin that's probably what i'll be going to for the most part.

Just to give you a little taste... A little ERock, and a little DWS...

vimeo.com/11639495

Brent Butcher wrote:Driving directions maps.google.com - Austin, TX Lawton, OK 6 hours 1 min(s) 354.9 mi - I-35 N

+1 for trip to the wichitas on a long weekend

camhead wrote: Just curious, what are the 5.14 trad lines? I recall hearing years ago that Clayton had freed that old aid line on the Acid Boulder, but not much else. When I used to go to Erock a lot, I don't recall even hearing about many 5.13 lines there.

CamHead, yeah i messed up trying to post quickly. good catch. I meant to put those ratings under Reimer's not, E-rock. i don't think any 5.14 trad lines exist in Texas yet.

Sadly, New Wall in the Austin Barton Creek Greenbelt has some seriously active fractures in it. The whole area is now closed while the city parks department decides what to do. More than likely routes like Meet the Flintstones, Mr. Slate, and Schoolboy Direct will be altered with massive trundling. But thems the breaks! It's all entropy.