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Multi-Pitch Sport Climbing = One or Two Ropes?

Original Post
Ben Bradford · · Goodrich, Michigan · Joined Oct 2010 · Points: 0

Is it best to climb multipitch sport routes with one or two ropes?

Bobby Hanson · · Spokane Valley · Joined Oct 2001 · Points: 1,230

It depends on the route and the descent.

Brent Butcher · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Nov 2010 · Points: 275
The Bobby wrote:It depends on the route and the descent.
What this guy said
Gee Monet · · Las Vegas, NV · Joined Jul 2010 · Points: 1,335

Also depends on how quickly you want to get back down, and how high the risk is of getting your ropes stuck when you pull them. Which basically translates to what has been stated earlier. If you've got some beta on the route, decent options are usually covered or can be researched fairly easily.

JPVallone · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Aug 2004 · Points: 195

Way too many variables to answer you question. The answer has been given and I will echo it again, It Depends!

Mike Lane · · AnCapistan · Joined Jan 2006 · Points: 880

Wouldn't it be great if there were some sort of reference source where you could actually find out in advance what sort of route you are getting into? Someplace that not only described the route, but includes other climber's input on what to expect? And even better, what if this resource was free? Maybe something online! Yes, that would be great. Dare to dream.

Tim Stich · · Colorado Springs, Colorado · Joined Jan 2001 · Points: 1,516

As an example of well thought out, multi-pitch sport routes, Snot Girlz in Potrero Chico requires only one 60 meter rope. Most long routes there are the same.

Any sport route that requires two ropes to get down from is poorly thought out and needs a rappel line that allows the parties to skip the extra cordage. But they do exist. Some require some sort of unprotected downclimbing or some sort of sketchy crap at some rappels. It depends. But those routes just need to be set up correctly. Not talking about walk-off routes.

Matt N · · CA · Joined Oct 2010 · Points: 425

one 70m

Darren Mabe · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Dec 2002 · Points: 3,669

i think it depends if you are hauling

dorseyec · · Unknown Hometown · Joined May 2009 · Points: 5

I always climb with at least three ropes, sometimes more depending on the route.

Chris D · · the couch · Joined Apr 2009 · Points: 2,236
dorseyec wrote:I always climb with at least three ropes, sometimes more depending on the route.
Yes. A third rope is good insurance in case one of the other two breaks of gets too fuzzed.
pooch · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jan 2011 · Points: 200

The question my partner of so very few words was eluding too is that we're going to do "Unimpeachable Groping" @ 7-pitches ~760ft in Red Rocks later this winter, and a lot of the beta we're getting or seeing is peeps doing a two-rope climb on it. We've always done a single rope on multi's, but we also haven't tackled anything quite this big yet either so we we're looking for some insight/thoughts/reasonings etc?

Ray Pinpillage · · West Egg · Joined Jul 2010 · Points: 180

Sounds like you two players need a 300 meter spool.

Ben Sachs · · Las Vegas, NV · Joined Oct 2008 · Points: 1,523

If you top out Unimpeachable you will need 2 ropes to safely descend the Ginger Cracks descent. If you bail and rap the route, you might be OK with one 70m. I wouldn't advise rapping the route if there are people climbing below you, which there probably will be as this route is popular.

Yarp · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jan 2011 · Points: 0
muttonface wrote:http://www.mountainproject.com/v/unimpeachable-groping/105732431 Do the route on doubles if you have them. If not, bring two 60m.
I was just going to post that same link mutton.

OP and partner...Why did you find it easier to start a thread asking a question that could have been answered by typing "Unipeachable Groping" into MP's search engine?

Goddess forbid you try

Google!
Darren Mabe · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Dec 2002 · Points: 3,669

unimpeachable is a sport route?!?

pooch · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jan 2011 · Points: 200

Yarp and mutton- our question is'nt about the route itself, we have beta coming out of our ears about it, and yes, of course we have seen it on this site!

Our question was what do most peeps use and/or prefer/recommend on long multi-pitch sport climbs, single rope or two-rope and why? We're split on this topic and looking for advice.

Yarp · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jan 2011 · Points: 0

Did you bother to read the comments section on MP? How about any of the pages that come up on google? Do you want me to come climb it for you too?

Darren Mabe · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Dec 2002 · Points: 3,669

fair enough, pooch.

sometimes i do not mind bringing a tagline for routes that i have not done before, if i have any question. it is also handy to send a puffy or somethin up to the leader for coldweather climbs. if you end up not needing it, then it will be good practice for you, and next time you will be able to decide easier.

Eric D · · Gnarnia · Joined Nov 2006 · Points: 235

I would go with four ropes in case your leader needs to take on some bolts. That way you always have a freshy ready to go.

Sorry you guys are getting so much crap, it's hard to resist. Usually just one rope is fine unless you need to haul or do double-rope raps. Especially on that route that has many anchors all over the place. Enjoy, it's good.

Buff Johnson · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Dec 2005 · Points: 1,145

clearly 1.5 ropes solves the problem here

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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