Best ice climbing boots????

I am looking to buy new ice climbing boots and although the "fruit boots" with the fixed crampons are a tempting choice, I really need a great high performance boot that I can approach in as well (think Cody).

So I just wanted to get a bit of feedback from you ice climbing fools out there.

Cheers

No one I know approaches in fruit boots, but that's not to say you couldn' t carry them and walk in Sorels.

Kinda hard to give you advice as there is no one perfect boot.

Reason 1. THE FIT is the most important thing, don't want slop, blisters or constriction (frostbite and foot problems like stress fractures etc.)

Reason 2. That also depends on both the intended use and the mountain environment you intend to use them in. I.e. bitter cold, lots of alpine rock, deep snow, sport ice, long approaches on skis.

Reason 3. Bootmakers have different models build for different intended users and uses.

Reason 4, Kinda like ski boots and cars, there are economy models and Jaguar models, so the $$ is a big factor.

So..... what's your intended range of use, kind of foot and $$$$ range.

I'd also add there's toe welt, no toe welt or even GSB as far as crampon compatibilty.....

Hi Mia,

Check out Dane's Cold Thristle Blog, if you haven't so, he had written many great review on boots and boot choosing.

E.g coldthistle.blogspot.com/20…

coldthistle.blogspot.com/20…

coldthistle.blogspot.com/20…

the best? These./;-)

As said before, there's no perfect boot. There are too many great ones out there to begin randomly offering advice.

I just got back from Cody, and I can say the best thing for the approaches isn't a boot. The approaches are reasonably dry with verglass all over the trails. I approached in trail runners with those little micro spikes attached. I moved much faster and more comfortably than my friend who was wearing Nepals. I don't think fruit boots would work well at all for Cody climbs. There's almost always a slog in-between pitches that would be hell in fruit boots.

for Cody and CO the best boots are Sportiva Trango Evo Extremes, in my opinion

if they fit your feet... the BEST boots are the ones that fit best

What ever fits best. The silver Trango and the Phantom Ultra are pretty close to fruit boots you can actually walk in. Ultras are hard to get hold of though. Heavier boots but the Nepal Evo also comes in women's sizing. The other two don't.

Hi all and appreciate the responses. Here is the deal:
I have climbed for a long time and know fit is important; however I do want very high performance boot, so I can always work on the fit. A fruit boot wouldn't work as I do too many long routes with serious walk offs etc.
So the question is still out there. And money is not really an issue as I simply just need good high performance boots. So think more mixed climbing or hard ice.
Keep at it!!! Thanx

Pick your La Sportiva model(s). Seems like Batura is a solid do everything and still be very technical boot. But hey maybe you get two different pairs!

I'd say your choice comes down to your personal preference vis a vis leather or composite fabric boots.

Just picked up pair of plastic single boots (Millet Radikal Lite from STP) that I very much like for about $110. No toe bail tho.

I have gone away from leather as I have weird and troublesome feet and the synthetics seem to provide more range for a good technical fit.

"I do want very high performance boots"

and I said..."silver Trango and the Phantom Ultra"

Two of the lightest and still warm technical boots for steep ice and hard mixed. Close to fruit boot performance but more warmth than the typical summer alpine boot. Saw your Aces. If they fit either of these should as well.

There are other boots, Nepal Evo, new Millet, Mammut, Batura, Phantom Guide among others that might well be warmer but they will also be heavier. None will climb technical ground any better than the first two I listed.

Dane..... I am considering either of the ones you mentioned.

I have had several La Sportiva in the past and they tend to fit well. Scarpa typically have too much volume and I can't seem to get a good/tight fit. Warmth and construction material is really not that important. I already have great warm boots for those nasty -20 days :-)

Will probably stick with La Sportiva, just wanted to see what other brands/models may be an option. Also, I do have a pretty small foot, so that may be a limiting factor.

Cheers

la sportiva trango extreme aka silver bullet

Kayland makes a super nice leather boot, too. The M11. They sell them at Wilderness Exchange.

wildernessexchangeunlimited…

Go with a leather boot as opposed to some plastic boot of course. You climb mixed a lot more easily that way.

More on lwt boots. An issue that may well come up on small boots is how the various crampons will or IF they will fit.

coldthistle.blogspot.com/20…

coldthistle.blogspot.com/20…

coldthistle.blogspot.com/20…

hmmmm....fit and performance:

Trango or Batura????

And the built in or no gaiter is not the issue........

:-)

Mia, the answer is both. I like to have a lw ninja boot and a performance warmer boot for ice. I currently have both boots you are looking at but spend 75% of my time in my baturas.

Size 45 boots:
La Sportiva Batura 1st gen. 2#7oz / 39oz, 1105g
La Sportiva Batura 2nd gen 2#11/ 43oz 1219gm
La Sportiva Nepal Evo 2#10.5oz / 42.5oz/ 1205g
La Sportiva Trango Evo Extreme GTX 2#3oz (35oz) / 992g
Scarpa Phantom Ultra new 2010 model 2#3.5oz (35.5oz) / 1006g
Scarpa Phantom Guide new 2010 model 2#7.5oz / 39.5oz, 1120g

Well I guess it sort of sucks to be a girl........ I cannot find either the Batura or Trango Extreme in size 38 anywhere in the US..........

Any ideas?

I can order through mountain gear but they are both back ordered (til next year?)
........ suckpill......

Bentgate has a 38 Phantom Guide that might be worth trying on.

Dane.....thanx! Will try em on today.....