Climbing and Camping at the Owen's River Gorge

A few questions:

1) What is the elevation of ORG?? I am planning a trip in late December involving three days of climbing at ORG and a three day hut BC skiing trip in Little Lakes Valley/Rock Creek Canyon, and am wondering if climbing in the gorge BEFORE skiing will help me acclimate before trying to ski some 13,000 foot peaks and generally hanging out at 10,000 feet, which is where the hut is.

2) I like sport climbing and love trad climbing. That said I am happy to just sport climb sometimes. My question is, will it be worth lugging the trad rack across the country (flying along with all the other ski/camping gear) just for three days of climbing; or should I just bring a lightweight sport "rack?" In other words, are there many excellent trad lines that are worth doing??

3) Any campsites or cool cheap hotels that anyone can recommend near ORG and/or Rock Creek Canyon??

3) Any special or scenic hot springs that anyone can recommend in the area??

Thanks!

-Nick

1) I think it's a little over 4000 ft, high desert.

2) Just a sport rack would be fine. There's probably a couple dozen trad climbs there that are really good, and a couple hundred sport climbs that are really good. Plenty of clip-ups to keep you occupied. And if you really want to do a crack climb, they've bolted a lot of those too.

3)The Pit is a nice climber campground located off of Pleasant Valley Rd. It's the closest camping to the Happy/Sad Boulders. $2 a night per vehicle. It's got latrines but no water.

There is also free camping off of Gorge Rd (the guidebook shows it). No bathrooms though. Rock Creek Rd kind of sucks for camping. I don't think dispersed camping is legal anywhere along there and all the campgrounds are $20 a night when they're open (I think they're all closed by Dec).

4)The Keough Hot Springs is a popular resort about 10 minutes south of Bishop. I think the resort is about $10 a day and it's pretty nice. There is also a natural creek nearby that will be warm after 9pm, when the resort stops taking all the hot water from it.

The best hot springs are located off of Benton Crossing Rd up toward Mammoth (only about 15 minutes north of Rock Creek). There's a map in the Lewis/Moynier Mammoth guide, you can just stop at Wilsons Sports in Bishop and take a photo of pg 260.

Perfect.....thanks Bryan!

Elevation of the crags ranges from 5000'-6000' - Bishop is 4000'. End of December you will probably be climbing near the 5000' level since the upper gorge is deeper and colder. And the Buttermilks are even higher, 6500'.

Leave the trad rack, there are plenty of excellent sport routes. There is a lot of fun trad, and you can often mix part of a crack and a neighboring face route, but it's not worth it for 3 days in late December (and you will probably be climbing Banana Belt, Warning Signs, and a few other crags which are nearly all sport).

You can camp between ORG and Rock Creek (the upper pinyon sites mentioned in the ORG guidebook), the dirt road above the camping (between the camping and 395) is a bit rough but generally no problem unless you have a very low slung rental car - or if there is snow (unusual, but a definite possibility). No toilets and around 7000'. The dirt road comes out on 395 shortly before Tom's Place, where the Rock Creek road takes off.

What about spending a day in the Alabama Hills. That place looks gorgeous. Is it worth a day (and I think the trad rack)?

Or any other very scenic spots on the east side for a day of climbing on the way between Rock Creek and Las Vegas (where we're flying out of)??

Alabama Hills are awesome. Soft ratings (so you will feel good about yourself) and great scenery. Definitely worth a day visit.

It looks like mostly sport with some trad in the Alabama Hills. Could I get away with leaving the trad rack at home if we go there, or would I be missing out??

So I'm thinking three days of backcountry skiing in the Rock Creek area, 2 days in ORG, and one day in the Alabama Hills, and maybe a half day in Red Rocks before the flight home.

Is that going to be good use of our time to maximize skiing, climbing, variety, scenic beauty, and quality chilling out??

We will only have 6 and a half days for activities.

Leave the rack for either the hills or ORG - plenty of sport to keep you occupied.

Alabama Hills has even less trad climbing than Owens. It's got some great free camping and it's a pretty area, but the climbing at Alabama Hills is mediocre at best. Not nearly as good as Owens River, which is stellar.

Although the Hills do get hit with less precipitation than the Bishop area, so it may be an area to retreat to if you're getting stormed on.

I would not bring a trad rack for the itinerary that you describe.

However, there is a chance that the weather will be total shit in the Sierras. It sounds like you're flying to Vegas. If there is ANY possibility that you may end up staying in Vegas if it's storming in the Sierras, then I would bring a rack.

Also, if you love trad, then why do ORG at all? Do the ski thing if the weather is good and climb trad in RR.

I've done lots of trad climbing at Red Rocks, although it is fantastic, I want to try some place new. I kind of like the idea of going on a ski trip and bringing along a sport rack to compliment the skiing for some variety. I also like traveling light when possible; but you probably have a good point.....

Tom, you name sounds familiar. Are you an ED resident out west or something? And did you go to Columbia??

I did a post-bacc at Columbia, and am doing emergency medicine in upstate NY....

.....But I would feel like a real dipshit....being at the bottom of a nice crack climb with nothing but a sport rack......

I'm sure either way will be fine....

Nick Weinberg wrote:.....But I would feel like a real dipshit....being at the bottom of a nice crack climb with nothing but a sport rack...... I'm sure either way will be fine....

Who says you can't climb crack with just quickdraws?

Do you just kind of stuff the quick draw in the crack and hope it stays?? Kind of like knot climbing???

Nick Weinberg wrote:Do you just kind of stuff the quick draw in the crack and hope it stays?? Kind of like knot climbing???

That would be one way to use your quickdraw! Another way would be to clip the bolts next to the crack. Your choice...

Hey Nick, having climbed with you, I would say you would be bored and under-impressed with the routes at Alabama Hills (it is like a chossy version of J Tree, especially the cracks). Although it is very beautiful down there (and worth a day of climbing some fun routes for that), there is no way either the Hills or the Gorge are worth bringing a rack for.

The elevation of the Gorge will help a little with acclimatizing to the High Sierra (around 5K at the upper end)....but not as much as you will really need. Plan accordingly.

Btw, Little Lakes Valley will blow your mind!

at ORG - good campsites higher up the road near upper gorge in the pinyon pines and rarely has impassable snow.

if you feel like driving - then check out a-hills. can always find sunny routes, drive up climbing and views of Whitney makes it worth while. stick to the high star climbs and you;ll have fun there.

you'll love rock creek

Nick Weinberg wrote:Tom, you name sounds familiar. Are you an ED resident out west or something? And did you go to Columbia?? I did a post-bacc at Columbia, and am doing emergency medicine in upstate NY....

Yes, I went to Columbia for med school and am an ED resident in Fresno. It's pretty awesome being able to do day trips to the Valley and weekend trips to Red Rocks, Tahoe, etc. I recognize your name now from the Columbia climbing Facebook page.

I've climbed a bit in the Alabama Hills and there are some fun routes. Loaf and Western Wall have some good stuff. I haven't done ORG yet. Too much trad in CA to keep me distracted. There are some trad routes in the Alabama Hills, but not enough to justify bringing a rack.

Do you guys think climbing at whitney portal will be possible at that time of year? Xmas to New Years?

Looks like some stellar climbs. I'm wondering if south facing climbs will be in?? Also looks like the high quality lines are crack lines.