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Scotty W
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Sep 9, 2011
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Ladera Ranch, CA
· Joined Apr 2011
· Points: 5
I'm relatively new to climbing sport and trad outside. I've got a Edelweiss ARC rope that has been use about 3 times outside. I noticed when I was putting it away after the last use that the sheath is getting quite fuzzy. I guess I'm asking how do i know if it's time to retire the rope?
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Mike Wallraff
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Sep 9, 2011
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VAN(currently)
· Joined Sep 2008
· Points: 10
I also have experienced rapid wear on my Edelweiss ARC rope. I have the Energy and have already had to cut several feet off each end of the rope due to worn sheathing. I've contacted Edelweiss and their response was they have the best sheathing life and I could pay to mail it in for their review if I wanted. The wear tends to be in the last several feet of the rope so I have accepted my bad purchase(I will not be buying Edelweiss again) and cut the ends off ass needed.
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sunder
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Sep 9, 2011
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Alsip, Il
· Joined Apr 2009
· Points: 805
Call Edelweiss and see what they say.
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Daaave
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Sep 9, 2011
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SLC, UT
· Joined Sep 2010
· Points: 0
I have two of the older elements and the sheaths are holding up much longer than all my friends ropes(bluewater, new england, petzl). Never had an arc but from those I talked to edelweiss usually wear very well...
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Robert Buswold
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Sep 9, 2011
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Northglenn, CO
· Joined Jul 2010
· Points: 80
If you've only used it 3 times outside I think it's safe to say that you are nowhere near ready to retire it. However, keep an eye out for kinks, serious flattening (not just the minor flattening that happens after it's been stored for a day or two), or areas where the core might be poking out through the sheath. It's takes a lot to mess up modern ropes, and unless you were sawing it over a knife edge all day in the three times you've used it, you should be ok!
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Woodchuck ATC
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Sep 9, 2011
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Unknown Hometown
· Joined Nov 2007
· Points: 3,305
razor shave the fuzz away. but sounds like the rope was misused to show so much wear in only 3 uses. yes, contact rope maker or place you purchased it.
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Josh Kornish
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Sep 9, 2011
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Whitefish, MT
· Joined Sep 2009
· Points: 800
I have an Edelweiss Arc rope and am actually very pleased with it. Rope's Specs 70m 9.6mm non-dry I've been using my rope since June and have been very pleased with it. It's mainly been on Granite in Montana and Washington but has seen some use on sharp Limestone. I'm sorry you're having troubles with your rope.
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Scotty W
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Sep 9, 2011
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Ladera Ranch, CA
· Joined Apr 2011
· Points: 5
The fuzz is only on one end of the rope so I might just trimming the effected 20 feet or so off. I'm thinking that part of the issue my be my my inexperience in placing pro and avoiding rope drag. I was climbing on pretty rough rock in the Big Bear area.
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Jason N.
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Sep 9, 2011
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Grand Junction
· Joined Mar 2011
· Points: 10
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bearbreeder
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Sep 10, 2011
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Unknown Hometown
· Joined Mar 2009
· Points: 3,065
depends on the use, pitches and type of climbs i just bought a new cheap rope, and the sheath is starting to fuzz up but then its probably had 60+ pitches now, some lead, some multi, some top rope (which kills ropes faster) ... on smooth rock, rough rock, with the rope in the crack somewhat, etc ... i personally dont worry about it too much ... the more you climb, the more youll wear out ropes, just like shoes obviously someone who climbs 4-5 days a week will wear out a rope faster than someone who climbs once a week ... and new climbers who top rope a lot will wear out ropes quite fast ... which is why new climbers should just buy a cheaper rope IMO for their first one
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Jesse Davidson
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Sep 10, 2011
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san diego, ca
· Joined May 2007
· Points: 45
There are certain activities which can wear a rope a lot faster. Be sure to extend your toprope anchors over the edge so the rope isn't rubbing. If keeping the rope from rubbing can't be avoided, rap instead of lowering.
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