First trip to the Adirondacks

Hoping to make my first trip up to the Adirondacks in the next few weeks and I am looking for some info on how to best make use of this first trip. Been mainly climbing in the Gunks (2nd season) and I'm leading 5.9 trad. Looking for quality routes in that range that are well situated and perhaps have some nice camp grounds close by. I will be camping with some non-climbers so areas that have great routes but also some other stuff for them to do while my climbing partner and I are on the wall would be helpful.

Also, I currently have a standard Gunks rack but also wondering if there are any additional pieces that are a must have before heading up there.

-t

if you haven't already done so, get your hands on a copy of the newest copy of Adirondack Rock by lawyer/haas. What is nice about the Adks is that there is great climbing pretty close to just about anywhere that you choose to camp. Are you looking for primitive camping(no bathrooms) or campground camping?

For the mixed company I will be with I would imagine campground camping would be best.

+1 to ADK Rock, great guide.

First, as a Gunks climber myself, I will say get ready for some grade shock on the crack climbs. There are a lot of long, sustained crack climbs that surprised me by the stiffness of grading.

I did not need to modify my rack for what I have done, but you may need a bigger piece or two. Generally, if you need something bigger than a 3, it will say on MP.

We camp at Lincoln Pond because we always bring along some non-climbers too. If you do Chapel Pond Slabs, Creature Wall or Upper Washbowl, your friends can hike the Ridge Trail up Giant Mountain. Same starting point basically and those three climbing areas are easy to find. It worked out well for us with both parties getting tired and ready to go home at the same time.

I currently am in love with creature wall. I was out there this weekend, and I'll be adding a few more routes on here that we tried out. If you want to top rope a bit to get used to the rock and crack climbing, Gob Hoblin, Cujo, and Arachnid Traction all work well on TR.

Most of all, have fun!!!!!! So much rock to climb out there!

If you are looking for single pitch climbs, then your best bet is usually Beer Walls. For that reason it is often crowded but so many climbs that you can find something for yourself. Also there are many climbing sites in that area, as others have mentioned Chapel Pond Slab, Creature Wall, Jewels and Gems, etc... Right near there is a campground along Route 73. It gets busy but often can sneak in somewhere and then be able to walk to these climbs. There are pit toilets there but no running water. Enjoy your trip!

Yeah, there's camping all along 73 on either side of Chapel Pond, mostly on the west side of the road. Park anywhere and have a look back in the woods. Primitive, but prime real estate. I'm not even sure if there are "real" campgrounds anywhere around Keene Valley? Meaning toilets and running water.

As for routes, everything people have said holds true. It's nice to have some extra cams for some of the routes. Generally you can leave the tricams behind but I guess they don't take up much space anyway.

Barkeater is also a pretty nice cliff to check out. Having doubles in hand sizes is helpful there.

Just got back from my first Adirondack trip this past weekend.

We camped near the Chapel Pond outlet. The signs say camping in designated sites only, but people seemed to be camped everywhere on Friday and Saturday nights.

Friday we did Regular Route on Chapel Pond slab, with the 5.7 chimney finish. Swam in the pond in the afternoon, headed over to the Lower Beer Wall in the evening, glorious day.

Saturday we started hiking in to Wallface at 9 am. Oops. Lawyer and Haas's 3 hour approach time was a little optimistic for us - it was closer to 4 and a half from ADK Loj. We were too bushed from the hike and bushwhack to climb anything, especially with the amount of daylight we had remaining, so it was back out to the car without climbing anything. Lost the route on the bushwhack back to the main trail, but made it all right. A great hike all in all, but would be more fun either with some climbing at the end or without a rope and rack on the back.

Sunday we were rained out.

For all the horror stories about the bugs, we didn't need the repellent once.

As far as a rack goes, we seemed to place a lot of cams, and not a lot of nuts.

Grades seemed softer than at the Gunks, at least on the easy routes that we were climbing. Of course, last time I was at the Gunks it was 100 degrees.

Easy, free camping down South Meadows Rd, off of ADK Loj Rd (off of 73 headed towards Keene Valley). You can generally snag a site easy if you get there earlyish and I would usually just leave my tent there for the duration of my stay, people wont really mess with it.

Check out Barkeater, Spiders Web, and the Beer Walls. High quality, short approaches. Your Gunks rack should be fine. Don't forget bug dope, and dont miss the Lake Placid Brewery.

If you mean campground camping to mean with amentities then look at:
Wilmington Notch: dec.ny.gov/outdoor/24500.html
Meadowbrook: dec.ny.gov/outdoor/24482.html
Sharp Bridge: dec.ny.gov/outdoor/24497.html

Aside from that you're looking at car camping as noted above. To add a note. Yes, people poach campsites but in high traffic areas (The Meadows, Chapel Pond Pass, etc) DEC officers do patrol.

Summitpost indicates South Meadows as a freebie. I've never seen an Iron Ranger, living Ranger, or option to pay in the area.

summitpost.org/south-meadow…

Thanks everyone...gives me a lot to go on.

The Keene Valley Hostel has a bunk room with exc. amenities, but they also let folks tent in the back yard for a cut rate ($15/night maybe). Call 'em at 518-576-2030.

As far as climbing goes, some spots that I think you ought to hit - Beer Walls (single pitch), Washbowl cliff (3-4 pitch, Hesitation is excellent as are the 5.8s on the R end, I hear. Bring big hexes or 3-4" cam for the start of Hesitation), Chapel Pond Slab (The Empress will thrill you; it couldn't be more different from what you're used to at the Gunks. "Only 5.5?" you might say, but it'll have your attention.), Poko - Wait in line for the Sting and Gamesmanship and see just how far your Gunks 5.9 experience will get you on ADK 5.8. You can rap Games. after the first pitch with two ropes or one 70m.) Owl's Head just east of Cascade Lake (too popular with group topropers, but excellent scenic location to hone your crack climbing. Blueberries should be in fat there right now. Moderate 15 min hike up from parking are just off Rt 73)

I'm headed to the Adirondacks for the first time next week. I'd love to hear some updated suggestions from anyone. Any "must-do" routes up to 5.10 would be much appreciated; 5.8 is the sweet spot for anything committing. We're fit and don't mind waking up early, so we're open to longer routes with longer approaches. We were thinking of staying around Chapel Pond, but we're not married to the idea.

Thanks in advance!

Rangers now patrol the Chapel pond area. They get there very early and give people tickets for camping in "non-designated" areas. This is confusing, as there are people everywhere and signs only vaguely indicate what constitutes what is in bounds and what isn't. The Chapel pond free camping spot is almost always packed. I would advise going elsewhere, although this recommendation is problematic, as there aren't many other free spots.

Brian E wrote:

Rangers now patrol the Chapel pond area. They get there very early and give people tickets for camping in "non-designated" areas. This is confusing, as there are people everywhere and signs only vaguely indicate what constitutes what is in bounds and what isn't. The Chapel pond free camping spot is almost always packed. I would advise going elsewhere, although this recommendation is problematic, as there aren't many other free spots.

Brian, this is KEY beta. I had all of my eggs in the "Chapel pond free camping spot" basket. Upon arriving to see it full, I probably would've just camped nearby and subsequently received a fine. I owe you a beer if we ever cross paths. Thank you!

Now to figure out where we're actually going to stay...

Not Hobo Greg wrote:

I’d recommend at least one big backcountry climb like Gothics or this Trap Dike. The Adirondacks are a wonderful place, big and wild, so you should experience that at least once while you’re there.

I was looking at the Trap Dike, and thought it looked like a lot of fun. I love moving fast in the mountains on easy terrain, I just wasn't sure if I wanted to take up some of our precious "climbing trip" time to do something that seems more-or-less like a fun and exciting hike. I'll have to check out Gothics. From a preliminary look, it seems like it would definitely have that awesome backcountry feel. 

I received the two-volume guide book as a birthday gift, so I'll have to do some more reading!

watch the weather and adjust accordingly. there are plenty of classics to do so it’s not worth roasting on a hot slab when you could be doing classic single pitch cragging somewhere else. i’d be looking at areas near water for sure because even the breeze lately is body temperature. 

Demetri V wrote:

Brian, this is KEY beta. I had all of my eggs in the "Chapel pond free camping spot" basket. Upon arriving to see it full, I probably would've just camped nearby and subsequently received a fine. I owe you a beer if we ever cross paths. Thank you!

Now to figure out where we're actually going to stay...

Camping

* Sharps Bridge has the best access to the Rt 73 corridor (chapel pond, beer wall, Keene Valley). DEC campground with online reservations (as long as you book no later than Wednesday for a Friday arrival)

* If you want good access to poke-o, there's a family owned campground called Magic Pines in Lewis. It's probably 30-45 minutes to the high peaks though.

* Between Keene and Placid is Drapers Acres which is another small independent campground. Nice facilities, but I've had a few bad experiences with loud "party bros" who are out camping for drinking, not as lodging for an outdoor objective

Many of the low-key primitive spots (South Meadows and Chapel Pond) have been blown up on social media, so they're not viable options unless you're rolling in decently early on Friday.

Not Hobo Greg wrote:

Perhaps down in the lowlands, but the high peaks have been amaaaaazing. Got to sit on colden sans shirt and bask in solar glory. And going to the ADK for single pitch is like going to a steakhouse and ordering salad; you’re missing out on the real deal.

how about two pitches?

Gunkiemike wrote: The Keene Valley Hostel has a bunk room with exc. amenities, but they also let folks tent in the back yard for a cut rate ($15/night maybe). Call 'em at 518-576-2030. As far as climbing goes, some spots that I think you ought to hit - Beer Walls (single pitch), Washbowl cliff (3-4 pitch, Hesitation is excellent as are the 5.8s on the R end, I hear. Bring big hexes or 3-4" cam for the start of Hesitation), Chapel Pond Slab (The Empress will thrill you; it couldn't be more different from what you're used to at the Gunks. "Only 5.5?" you might say, but it'll have your attention.), Poko - Wait in line for the Sting and Gamesmanship and see just how far your Gunks 5.9 experience will get you on ADK 5.8. You can rap Games. after the first pitch with two ropes or one 70m.) Owl's Head just east of Cascade Lake (too popular with group topropers, but excellent scenic location to hone your crack climbing. Blueberries should be in fat there right now. Moderate 15 min hike up from parking are just off Rt 73)

Be aware that Owls Head is closed on weekends.

Mike V. wrote:

Camping

* Sharps Bridge has the best access to the Rt 73 corridor (chapel pond, beer wall, Keene Valley). DEC campground with online reservations (as long as you book no later than Wednesday for a Friday arrival)

* If you want good access to poke-o, there's a family owned campground called Magic Pines in Lewis. It's probably 30-45 minutes to the high peaks though.

* Between Keene and Placid is Drapers Acres which is another small independent campground. Nice facilities, but I've had a few bad experiences with loud "party bros" who are out camping for drinking, not as lodging for an outdoor objective

Many of the low-key primitive spots (South Meadows and Chapel Pond) have been blown up on social media, so they're not viable options unless you're rolling in decently early on Friday.

Thanks for the detailed response, Mike. We’re looking to arrive on a Thursday, so that may open up some options for us.

Is it unsafe/bad idea/frowned upon to leave a tent at a campsite while we’re out climbing for the day?

Pitchoff!!!